Well, It's time for me to bite the bullet and add a sub to my system. It's purely a music system that already reaches down to about 45Hz so I'd like the sub to operate below 100Hz and down to 20Hz but not necessarily at any great volumes. I just want a little extra!! I can EQ at line level to suit my needs.
I'm having trouble finding a suitable location for a sub since I'm quite keen for it to be a centrally located stereo unit. I will be using a two channel amp anyway.
My idea would be to integrate the sub into the bottom half of a very solid, well built pine cabinet. The top half would house my HiFi equipment!!
This idea goes against my purist attitude to vibration but could this work if both drivers are effectively cancelling out any potential cabinet movement?
The bottom half of the cabinet has a wooden door and the top half (for the equipment) has a glass door.
If this seems viable to you guys then I would strengthen the enclosure by creating an inner enclosure from MDF. Decoupling may even be possible between these two layers but I'm inexperienced at building subs and need advice. If I glue the MDF inner directly to the outer part then it would be stronger.
Am I crazy? Could it work? Is this the best way to keep the WAF?
P.S. I will post a photo of the actual cabinet tomorrow.
I'm having trouble finding a suitable location for a sub since I'm quite keen for it to be a centrally located stereo unit. I will be using a two channel amp anyway.
My idea would be to integrate the sub into the bottom half of a very solid, well built pine cabinet. The top half would house my HiFi equipment!!
This idea goes against my purist attitude to vibration but could this work if both drivers are effectively cancelling out any potential cabinet movement?
The bottom half of the cabinet has a wooden door and the top half (for the equipment) has a glass door.
If this seems viable to you guys then I would strengthen the enclosure by creating an inner enclosure from MDF. Decoupling may even be possible between these two layers but I'm inexperienced at building subs and need advice. If I glue the MDF inner directly to the outer part then it would be stronger.
Am I crazy? Could it work? Is this the best way to keep the WAF?
P.S. I will post a photo of the actual cabinet tomorrow.
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richie00boy said:
This plan is never going to be ideal but ....
If I can super strengthen the walls and incorporate some decoupling then it might be worth a punt? I think that the cabinet has ample volume to line with 25mm MDF and lots of bracing to minimise the problem of pressurisation.
I could also add some dynamat or similar between the MDF and the cabinet. Hopefully this would allow the inner to flex slightly without passing on too much vibration.
I'm just thinking out load really.
Thank you Richie and Bastek.
I got the cabinet for ten pounds from Ebay and found it to be too tall too site in the bay window without obstructing the view. I was intending to cut the bottom off and just use the top half but if I can use it for a sub as well ....
I won't be losing out much if it doesn't work out.
It will be interesting to see what happens with this. All of my equipment is well decoupled with Sorbathane so this will help. Actually, This cabinet is already very heavy and with all the heavy kit inside it's going to be very weighty indeed.
Thanks again,
Martin
I got the cabinet for ten pounds from Ebay and found it to be too tall too site in the bay window without obstructing the view. I was intending to cut the bottom off and just use the top half but if I can use it for a sub as well ....
I won't be losing out much if it doesn't work out.
It will be interesting to see what happens with this. All of my equipment is well decoupled with Sorbathane so this will help. Actually, This cabinet is already very heavy and with all the heavy kit inside it's going to be very weighty indeed.
Thanks again,
Martin
Martin:
Not 100% analagous but I implemented a WAF Limited sub using existing cabinets.
I actually did the two types of cabinets differently. The smaller ones I built the box with the cut outs, and put the completed box into the cabinets. With the larger cabinet I cut the pieces and glued them individually in the box. I believe that building the box completely and putting it into the cabinet was the better approach.
Regarding isolation, bracing the drivers against each other may help. In other words fabricate a bracket out of either metal or a hard wood that will wedge between the magnet structures so that they are directly coupled. Don't block an vents.
Paul
Not 100% analagous but I implemented a WAF Limited sub using existing cabinets.
I actually did the two types of cabinets differently. The smaller ones I built the box with the cut outs, and put the completed box into the cabinets. With the larger cabinet I cut the pieces and glued them individually in the box. I believe that building the box completely and putting it into the cabinet was the better approach.
Regarding isolation, bracing the drivers against each other may help. In other words fabricate a bracket out of either metal or a hard wood that will wedge between the magnet structures so that they are directly coupled. Don't block an vents.
Paul
I've thought of doing a similar thing with a massive cabinet in our main living room, but haven't convinced myself that I would be happy with the results. However, in your situtation, since you aren't totally comitted to the cabinet, I would cut it in half as you've said, mount the upper half to the hall, and use a conventional sub sitting on the floor below. Good luck regardless.
I cannot think that this is a good idea.
I don't know, how top end your components are, but I woud imagine that any CDP will suffer. Also, some people recommend isolation platforms for hi-end preamps (ss or tubed - I don't know), so the possible issues are not just related to the mechanical movement of parts.
If you are looking for a solution that does not add more cabinets to the room, why don't you think about under-sofa solutions? There are some nice transmission line designs about that are not very high (off the ground), and easily concealable.
I don't know, how top end your components are, but I woud imagine that any CDP will suffer. Also, some people recommend isolation platforms for hi-end preamps (ss or tubed - I don't know), so the possible issues are not just related to the mechanical movement of parts.
If you are looking for a solution that does not add more cabinets to the room, why don't you think about under-sofa solutions? There are some nice transmission line designs about that are not very high (off the ground), and easily concealable.
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