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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Hello,
I'm new to the forum, but have been reading threads here and there for some time. I'd like to build a pair of subs (that double as 30" stands) for my VMPS 626Rs. I very much like the passive-radiator mentality of the VMPS subs, and while they are not exceptionally expensive, they are out of my budget. I would not be willing to spend more than $350 US (on the high end) on drivers and radiators. This is a strictly 2-channel hi-fi music system, but I want to feel the low brass and low strings and rock percussion and synths. And it needs to be clean...not like a 17 year-old's Honda Civic kicker box. Is what I'm asking for possible? Or am I better off spending my $350 on one VERY good single driver? Thanks! |
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#2 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Hello.
I like the bass produced by a sealed box the best, and it sounds like you do too. You say 30" high , but how wide? How deep? How low do you want the bass to go? Not a lot of low bass in recorded music. What's the low freq. rolloff of your main speakers? Your budget is low, but do-able. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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The 626R dimensions are as follows: 13 1/2" deep x 10 1/4" wide x 23 3/4" tall, with 7/8" radius vertical edges (horizontals are square). Much like the one pictured in the attached image.
However, as long as it doesn't negatively impact the planer qualities of the 626Rs, I don't mind either going wider (than 10 1/4") with the subs or side-loading the drivers. I'm pretty open to ideas, but I'd like to concentrate around the passive-radiator model (if practical). Also, my $350 budget is just for drivers. VPMS rates the speaker at 42 Hz-25 kHz +0/-3 dB. I cannot verify this. I'd like the sub to go down to 20 Hz or lower, but to also take some of the stress off of the woofers in the 626Rs and let them sing a bit. Any thoughts? Thanks! |
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#4 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
We all like the sub to go down to 20Hz, but thats expensive unless you resort to some allignments such as EBS or bandpass. Here is a website with some good info on a sub construction with a passive radiator. http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/article/1789/ Need to keep in mind that the cost of drivers and PR's for 2 of these exceeds your budget. Another though is how you will drive them? 20hz at good spl requires a lot of power. Here's a few kits that use PR's that could suit your needs: http://www.solen.ca/sxxls.htm |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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What about Seas L26RFX/P?
I was thinking about the driving them with one or two Reckhorn A-400s, but I may change my mind depending on what's available on e-bay when it comes time! Thanks for the links. I'm not so interested in kits themselves, but it certainly gives me some ideas. Any thoughts on brands or models that offer excellent value? I've hears that Seas are better than one might expect looking at their price. Thanks again! |
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#6 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
The Seas is a beautiful driver. It's a woofer, not really a sub, that would give superlative preformance is a sealed 3 way. T/S specs say it's better in a sealed box. Could be used in a vented box ~ 140 litres with an F3 at 26Hz. That's pretty big, and vented(yuck). Also fairly expensive at $160.00. For $70.00 you could get equal bass response with a smaller vented box(85 L) from the Peerless S263SWR3908. The SWR stands for subwoofer. Higher efficiency by 2dB, higher power handling, longer excursion, not as pretty though Another option is to use a small long throw with a bigger passive radiator. This could keep your cost down, get the box size down, and give good performance. I have been thinking about a sub arrangement where the woofer is mounted behind the passive radiator in a compound type configuration. Would be interesting to try. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Update...
I just bought two Peerless XLS10 10" woofers from ebay. Now I need the passives to go with them! Any further design thoughts given these drivers? Now I'm excited!!! Oh boy...stereo subs!!! |
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#8 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Congrats! Are they new? How much were they? Did you read Sanders article that I posted earlier? It details a sub using those drivers: http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/article/1789/ Pay particular attention to what he says about the weight of the PR versus freq. response. You can play with box dimensions up or down by a small margin to get the right size you are looking for. Are they new? How much were they? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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They're not new, but are fairly new and fully working (or so I'm told). They cost me $97 US each. So not cheap, but much less than new.
I did read (although not thoroughly yet) the link you posted previously. That's what prompted me to get these drivers. Are there any disadvantages in side-loading these drivers, so that they face each other (maybe with the passives facing outward), so I can maintain the width of my 626Rs of 10 1/4"? Or am I better off making the boxes wider and front loading or down firing. VMPS has their subs with the driver on the front and the passive down firing, but the Seas catalogue says that their passive should be mounted vertically. Would this also apply to the Peerless? Also, has anyone ever replaced the dust-cap on a XLS10 with a phase plug? Or is that a topic in and of itself? Thanks again! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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I am wondering about using these drivers for two t-line subs to save myself $200 for the passives. Something like these (but with single drivers):
http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/subs/subs.html But I have never heard a t-line sub before. Any thoughts/comparisons to the PR idea? |
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