Some nice work there!
Any difference b/w mounting the passive on the same panel as the driver, vs. one of the 90 deg. panels or 180 deg. panel?
I would expect there to be a phase issue in any configuration. On the same panel they will be 180 deg. out of phase. Behind the driver they will be reflected from the wall and be IN phase, but delayed which might cause strange nodes greatly dependent on speaker placement. On a side panel would be similar to on the rear panel, but directed off-axis...so in fact I have no idea what that would do!
Since VMPS is so careful about keeping everything in phase, I'd hate to ruin the amazing imaging I get from mine...
Any difference b/w mounting the passive on the same panel as the driver, vs. one of the 90 deg. panels or 180 deg. panel?
I would expect there to be a phase issue in any configuration. On the same panel they will be 180 deg. out of phase. Behind the driver they will be reflected from the wall and be IN phase, but delayed which might cause strange nodes greatly dependent on speaker placement. On a side panel would be similar to on the rear panel, but directed off-axis...so in fact I have no idea what that would do!
Since VMPS is so careful about keeping everything in phase, I'd hate to ruin the amazing imaging I get from mine...
torontodude said:
My personal preference is to have both sub and PR facing me, besides, it looks cooler. With that said, it makes the bass more directional, easier to locate. As for off axis response for side firing, that will not be an issue as it does not suffer from this. Phase is only a problem if there is some overlap or cancellation with your mains. You will want to cross where they start to rolloff.
Good bass is the foundation music is laid on, it will only add to your imaging, not take away.
The same seller of the XLS10's I bought has a pair of Peerless 12" passives (830547) for sale at $75 CDN (as new) with weights.
Any reason not to go with those, over the matching 10" passives (that sell for $95)?
I'd rather spend the extra $40 on parts if it works out just as well (or better).
Thanks!
Any reason not to go with those, over the matching 10" passives (that sell for $95)?
I'd rather spend the extra $40 on parts if it works out just as well (or better).
Thanks!
Using Unibox, you can determine the best internal volume for the box and also the weight the PR should be. With this combination, you should have no problem going down to 20Hz, as long as you have enough power. You should be thinking in the 200watt+ range, to give a little headroom. Anything less will be disappointing.
Have fun with this.
Have fun with this.
torontodude said:
Yeah, 200 watts or more is better. If you were to get a couple of cheap amps on Ebay, you could bridge the output to get enough power. 50 watts per channel bridged = 200watts. Two of these would be plenty. Crossover distortion - a bridged amp deterant, is not noticable at low frequencies.
My amp developes about 470 watts continuous with peak output of 540 watts into 4 ohms. I use a Linkwitz transform though, so there is 18 dB boost at 20Hz. Although it rarely uses this much power, It's nice to have it when you need it.(to show off)
Oh, BTW, it's not class D either. Good old fashioned class B bjt.
Well...I think I'll see how it goes with the gear I've got right now before going out and buying more stuff (as appealing as that may be!).
I've got a Rotel RB-970BX and a Marantz Model 250. I was hoping to run the subs off of the Rotel and the mains off of the Marantz...but we'll see how things go.
I've got a Rotel RB-970BX and a Marantz Model 250. I was hoping to run the subs off of the Rotel and the mains off of the Marantz...but we'll see how things go.
torontodude said:
Won't the Marantz give 150watts/channel into 4 ohms? I'd use that for the subs. The Rotel's 60/channel? Try that first. Like I said, high excursion, low freq drivers are power hungry. Sending a boy(60watts) to do a mans job will not pay off. You will need power on transients, and it will be easier on that anchient Marantz.
Yes, you're right about the amp powers, 60W into 8 and 150W into 4.
I think the Marantz is a better amp than the Rotel, and so I would prefer it on the mains, but I see your point.
I just got the Marantz and haven't really been able to get a good feel for it yet.
Maybe when I get an SET amp for the mains I can put the Marantz onto Sub duty!
I think the Marantz is a better amp than the Rotel, and so I would prefer it on the mains, but I see your point.
I just got the Marantz and haven't really been able to get a good feel for it yet.
Maybe when I get an SET amp for the mains I can put the Marantz onto Sub duty!
Might be a while before I start building....you see, they're somewhat girlfriend-unfriendly. And I wouldn't want to raise my most recent financial indiscretions....like these drivers, the Marantz, the VMPS's, etc., etc......
Hmmm...I've got some Mamiya 7 camera equipment for sale if any one's interested! LOL
What is it with guys, their stereos, cars, and their cameras???
Hmmm...I've got some Mamiya 7 camera equipment for sale if any one's interested! LOL
What is it with guys, their stereos, cars, and their cameras???
BTW, I too like the look of the symmetrical version slightly better. But, two reasons that I like the "leaning" version are:
1) It's easier to make. Fewer beveled edges.
2) Should I ever want to put the mains and subs side-by-side (rather than stacked), I think it'll look better to have two vertical edges beside each other.
But I'm far from decided....
1) It's easier to make. Fewer beveled edges.
2) Should I ever want to put the mains and subs side-by-side (rather than stacked), I think it'll look better to have two vertical edges beside each other.
But I'm far from decided....
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