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-   -   Wire From Ext. Crossover to Speaker (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/sonic-craft/230803-wire-ext-crossover-speaker.html)

rich2ch 25th February 2013 12:25 PM

Wire From Ext. Crossover to Speaker
 
I used a 16 gage twisted pair of upocc copper with teflon to wire the base module of my Newform Research 645R speakers from the binding post to the 2 woofers. I have moved the crossover outside the speaker. Would it be best practice to use the same 16 ga twisted pair to wire from the external crossover to the speakers? If not do you have any good suggestions for this wire?

Tech Staff @ Sonic Craft 26th February 2013 06:09 AM

Is your current 16ga stranded or solid? This cable will only feed the low pass, correct?

rich2ch 26th February 2013 10:37 AM

The speaker has a bass box with 2 woofers internally wired with a twisted pair of solid upocc copper with teflon. The tweeter is enclosed and could not be re-wired.

rich2ch 26th February 2013 10:50 AM

Sorry, I missed a part of your question! I will be wiring from the external crossover to the woofer box and the tweeters with 2 separate cables.

Guild 27th February 2013 03:29 PM

I would suggest using the same type and gauge wire to the woofers (16 awg solid cu/teflon).

It's been a long time but the oem tweeter capacitor (11uf) is located inside the cabinet...I just can't remember where it was located (glued to the back of the binding post plates?). In any case, this is a good cap to upgrade (if you haven't done so). I moved this capacitor out of the cabinet too. I like the Auricap for the tweeter (11 or 12uf).

Also, I found that the quality and gauge of the wire feeding the tweeter has a pretty profound effect on the overall sound of the speaker. I played around with all kinds of wire and finally settled on a braided teflon cu (6 strands per leg (+ & -) of 24 awg/teflon/cu). :)

Jeff Glowacki 27th February 2013 08:24 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by rich2ch (Post 3386661)
Sorry, I missed a part of your question! I will be wiring from the external crossover to the woofer box and the tweeters with 2 separate cables.

Rich,

Since you are already using solid 16ga, I would continue to do so. However, I would use a four braid by which you will have 2 x 16ga for each polarity. Assuming you are still using a single cap position for the ribbon, I would wire it directly on the outside of the speaker. I would use a twisted pair of solid 23ga UPOCC Sliver with a pair of 18ga solid UPOCC Copper in Teflon reversed helix around the outside. The first pic I attached merely shows an externally mounted/connected high-pass cap on a custom Newform speaker. The second shows the wire configuration I recommended for the high-pass.

Jeff Glowacki 27th February 2013 08:31 PM

Hello,

Welcome to our forum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guild (Post 3388462)
It's been a long time but the oem tweeter capacitor (11uf) is located inside the cabinet...I just can't remember where it was located (glued to the back of the binding post plates?). In any case, this is a good cap to upgrade (if you haven't done so). I moved this capacitor out of the cabinet too. I like the Auricap for the tweeter (11 or 12uf).

I'm sure that Auricap sounded better than the stock cap, but that would not be my first choice. The Auri is rolled on top. This does not play well with the Newform ribbon. This is probably why so many used Hovlands. The Hovland is a very bright cap, and also not my first choice, but it is a much better choice for that ribbon.

Guild 28th February 2013 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Glowacki (Post 3388831)
Hello,

Welcome to our forum.



I'm sure that Auricap sounded better than the stock cap, but that would not be my first choice. The Auri is rolled on top. This does not play well with the Newform ribbon. This is probably why so many used Hovlands. The Hovland is a very bright cap, and also not my first choice, but it is a much better choice for that ribbon.

I didn't try the Hovlands but IME over a long period of tweaking and tinkering, capacitor picking usually turns out to be a matter of taste. With the Newforms, I started off by replacing the stock tweeter cap with an Audiocap Theta... very (very) nice but a maybe a little too smooth for my tastes. Next up was the Sonicap Gen 1 which proved a little too bright (bypassing it with a Vishay 1837 helped) and then I tried the Auricap...and that was the ticket. Just the right amount of detail and musicality that I was looking for. All of these caps are excellent but my second choice in this application...the Theta (bypassed with a .1uf Multicap RTX).

rich2ch 28th February 2013 11:42 AM

I tried the auricap and then switched to a vcap (I think) years ago and it is a little bright for my taste at times but usually it is ok. I would like to change my crossover so that it is easy to swap out caps perhaps with binding posts or something (any suggestions?) to make it easier to test others out.

Jeff, are you suggesting the braided wire inside the cabinet as well? I will have to study the wording about the braiding pattern to see if I can understand what you have suggested.

Thanks for your help.

Jeff Glowacki 28th February 2013 10:58 PM

Rich,

I assume you have run two dedicated pairs, one to each woofer inside the cabinet. Not, daisy chained like the factory does it? If this is the case, there is no need to do anything different inside the cabinet. I'd assume you twisted the pair going to each woofer already. I recommended two 16ga to "each" polarity from the external XO to the bass cabinet, so you will have four conductors. I recommended a common four braid. Google "braid four", and you will see examples of four braid with hair, string, etc...

I assume you are going from the XO (single cap) directly to the back of the ribbon? There is no need to run anything through the box for the high-pass. I would use the wire I described in my last post. That wire is constructed by making a twisted pair of 23ga Silver. Then winding two 18ga Copper conductors around the outside of the twisted 23ga pair. One of the 18ga conductors will go clockwise around the twisted pair, while the other 18ga goes counter-clockwise. They will be wound at the same time so that the same 18ga is crossing under the other 18ga on one side of the cable. On the other side of the cable, the 18ga conductors switch positions as far as how they stack. The one on the bottom on one side will become the one on top on the other side.

I have no recommendation for a fixture to switch caps in and out. If you are using vcaps, I assume it is the OIMP? The TFTF would get awfully expensive. Please advise.


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