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Old 18th March 2013, 10:55 AM   #31
rich2ch is offline rich2ch  United States
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Jeff,

I would assume that the hi-pass wire is all solid still. Is this correct?

Thanks,

Rich
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Old 18th March 2013, 03:46 PM   #32
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From the first page of this thread...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Glowacki View Post
Rich,

I would use a twisted pair of solid 23ga UPOCC Sliver with a pair of 18ga solid UPOCC Copper in Teflon reversed helix around the outside.
As I said, the low-pass wiring will not effect the high-pass wiring.

Last edited by Jeff Glowacki; 18th March 2013 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 19th March 2013, 01:51 PM   #33
rich2ch is offline rich2ch  United States
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I have one question regarding the Milloit Braiding. I just want to be sure I get it right; I am assuming from what you said 11 and 14 would share the same polarity and 12 and 13 would share the same polarity. Like 11+, 12-, 13-, and 14+. Is this correct?

Thanks,

Rich
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Old 19th March 2013, 09:32 PM   #34
Guild is offline Guild  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich2ch View Post
I have one question regarding the Milloit Braiding. I just want to be sure I get it right; I am assuming from what you said 11 and 14 would share the same polarity and 12 and 13 would share the same polarity. Like 11+, 12-, 13-, and 14+. Is this correct?

Thanks,

Rich
Yes...that's the correct way to hook them up according to Milloit in order to gain the max noise rejection etc. What you have is two separate twisted pairs (11/14 & 12/13) braided together. Connect (+ ) from one of the pairs (11/14) to the (+ )of the other pair (12/13) and likewise for the returns (-).

Now, you can try paralleling the connections (this is apparently how Kimber does it with the Hero I/c). No harm in trying this as an experiment.
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Old 20th March 2013, 12:52 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guild View Post
Yes...that's the correct way to hook them up according to Milloit in order to gain the max noise rejection etc. What you have is two separate twisted pairs (11/14 & 12/13) braided together. Connect (+ ) from one of the pairs (11/14) to the (+ )of the other pair (12/13) and likewise for the returns (-).

Now, you can try paralleling the connections (this is apparently how Kimber does it with the Hero I/c). No harm in trying this as an experiment.
For further clarification/simplicity...in the context of the braid you're thinking of performing, connect ribbons 11 & 13 for the (+) and ribbons 12 & 14 for the (-). This is the Milloit connection.

For the "Kimber" type connection you would connect 11 & 14 (+) and 12 & 13 (-).

And remember, when finished the braid should look similar to the XLO i/c's I referenced earlier. So you have to take care and dress the 3 wire ribbons around the braid to keep them oriented properly.
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Old 22nd March 2013, 05:24 PM   #36
rich2ch is offline rich2ch  United States
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Guild,

I made a set of the high pass cables as you suggested only used the Kimber polarity as Jeff suggested. My initial reaction is that they are a bit rolled off but they are not broken in yet. I have not had a chance for a long listen yet.

Rich
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Old 23rd March 2013, 05:08 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich2ch View Post
Guild,

I made a set of the high pass cables as you suggested only used the Kimber polarity as Jeff suggested. My initial reaction is that they are a bit rolled off but they are not broken in yet. I have not had a chance for a long listen yet.

Rich
Rich...glad you were able to pick up this braid so quickly. Sorry the cables sound a "bit rolled off" but hopefully they will open up a bit as they settle-in. This is kind of the opposite of my experience in that the improvements were immediate upon installing the braided high pass cables. It will be interesting to hear what happens in your case.

I wonder if the Cat 5 wire you used was plenum rated (ie, teflon insulation)? If not this could possibly account for what your hearing.

Guild
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Old 23rd March 2013, 02:00 PM   #38
rich2ch is offline rich2ch  United States
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Guild,

The cat5 I used is in fact teflon copper. I definitely need to let it settle in some and then reassess speaker placement. I just got the wire for Jeff's suggested low pass cable and will be tackling that this weekend. Right now I have a cross connected coaxial cable for low pass and they are likely a bad mix.

Rich
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Old 8th September 2013, 04:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich2ch View Post
Jeff,

A couple things. I realized that my in-cabinet cabling is 14 ga not 16; will this influence your crossover to speaker cable recommendations at all? Also, what is meant by the bypass cap; are these caps hooked up in parallel? My High pass cables are 5 feet long which I believe means I would need to get 24 feet of silver (upocc teflon) at $11.59/foot which adds up really fast on top of the upocc copper. This is expensive enough I will seriously need to think about it.

Guild,

What are you using for the low pass cabling? I am still trying to understand the 12 conductor braiding process.

Thanks for your help guys!

Rich
Once you start down the bypass path, forever will it dominate your destiny (Yoda). I've found several good combos, but like a dog chasing squirrels, I'm always convinced the next combo will be it. These days I'm using a 5%, of 15%,
plus 85% of the total value sought. Try to achieve @ double the voltage rating as your uF decrease, my theory being that they'll be lower in resistance , "steering" higher frequencies through your best caps. Also tried bare silver 18 gauge silver wire from jewellers with good results. I twist each stand in a drill with monofilament fishing line to hold off some spiral plastic wrap/insulation from a local electronics store.Then twist both pairs together opposite spin in the drill. Now you own some twisted pair, almost air dielectric speaker wire.Cost total about $3.50/ft CDN, if that helps.
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Old 8th September 2013, 04:50 PM   #40
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Forgot to mention- dead soft - silver sounds better than -hard- or -semi hard- for some reason. Also found rolled gold and silver core to sound smoother on a tweeter.
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