IMO, I find the quality of the Cardas CCBP to be very good.
I also found that if they start looking a little oxidized, just put some Ospho (phosphoric acid) on a cloth and given them a good wipe down. Then do a final cleaning cleaning with something like DeoxIt. After that they will look like brand new again. Phosphoric acid is not very agressive and won't hurt plastic, but you should be carefull not to drip it on bare aluminum and wood finishes.
They would twist in the mounting plate? I have never seen this
Yep. This is a long term problem that I've had but haven't figured out what's going on. It hasn't affected the sound of course and so I've just chalked it up...but I will remove the plates and see if I can give a better analysis.. Thanks.
Take a picture if you can. The only thing I can think of that "might" have caused such a thing is by applying heat too long to a post that is very hard to solder to. The CC series posts are not just a great conductor of electricity, they are a great conductor of heat.
I recommend spinning the binding nuts off first (not the mounting nuts). This effectively shrinks the heat sink if you will. Then, I recommend using a iron that is a minimum of 100 watts. If you merely use 100 watts, I hope you are using a low temp Lead solder like Cardas QE or wbt. If you are using Lead-free, you should probably us extra flux and 120+ watts. The Weller 8200 will do fine at around $30. I actually use a 300 watt gun. I like to get on it, and off of it. While posts may not suffer like components, dwell time can be a killer. Low power have damaged more parts than...
I only mention this because it seems to be a common mistake. I first encountered it about 10 years ago. A customer had installed several sets of CCGR-S in his speakers and amps. On a whim, he tried the Vampire BP-Hex/CB. This was not something he had ever discussed with me. A year or two later, he was asking my opinion on something, and we started going over his system. At some point, I made reference to his posts. He told me what he had, and what he went to. He said the Vampires sounded better. I found this hard to believe given the direction he was trying to take his system in. It seemed like a step back. I scratched my head for a day or two. Then it came to me. I asked him if he had soldered directly to the Vampire post, or to the ring terminal. He stated that he used the ring. Then, I asked him what kind of iron he used to solder the CCGRs. He was using a 15 watt stick. Long story longer, he bought an 8200, and tried the CCGRs again. I wonder what he did with all those Vampire posts he had left
I recommend spinning the binding nuts off first (not the mounting nuts). This effectively shrinks the heat sink if you will. Then, I recommend using a iron that is a minimum of 100 watts. If you merely use 100 watts, I hope you are using a low temp Lead solder like Cardas QE or wbt. If you are using Lead-free, you should probably us extra flux and 120+ watts. The Weller 8200 will do fine at around $30. I actually use a 300 watt gun. I like to get on it, and off of it. While posts may not suffer like components, dwell time can be a killer. Low power have damaged more parts than...
I only mention this because it seems to be a common mistake. I first encountered it about 10 years ago. A customer had installed several sets of CCGR-S in his speakers and amps. On a whim, he tried the Vampire BP-Hex/CB. This was not something he had ever discussed with me. A year or two later, he was asking my opinion on something, and we started going over his system. At some point, I made reference to his posts. He told me what he had, and what he went to. He said the Vampires sounded better. I found this hard to believe given the direction he was trying to take his system in. It seemed like a step back. I scratched my head for a day or two. Then it came to me. I asked him if he had soldered directly to the Vampire post, or to the ring terminal. He stated that he used the ring. Then, I asked him what kind of iron he used to solder the CCGRs. He was using a 15 watt stick. Long story longer, he bought an 8200, and tried the CCGRs again. I wonder what he did with all those Vampire posts he had left
Take a picture if you can. The only thing I can think of that "might" have caused such a thing is by applying heat too long to a post that is very hard to solder to. The CC series posts are not just a great conductor of electricity, they are a great conductor of heat.
I recommend spinning the binding nuts off first (not the mounting nuts). This effectively shrinks the heat sink if you will. Then, I recommend using a iron that is a minimum of 100 watts. If you merely use 100 watts, I hope you are using a low temp Lead solder like Cardas QE or wbt. If you are using Lead-free, you should probably us extra flux and 120+ watts. The Weller 8200 will do fine at around $30. I actually use a 300 watt gun. I like to get on it, and off of it. While posts may not suffer like components, dwell time can be a killer. Low power have damaged more parts than...
I only mention this because it seems to be a common mistake. I first encountered it about 10 years ago. A customer had installed several sets of CCGR-S in his speakers and amps. On a whim, he tried the Vampire BP-Hex/CB. This was not something he had ever discussed with me. A year or two later, he was asking my opinion on something, and we started going over his system. At some point, I made reference to his posts. He told me what he had, and what he went to. He said the Vampires sounded better. I found this hard to believe given the direction he was trying to take his system in. It seemed like a step back. I scratched my head for a day or two. Then it came to me. I asked him if he had soldered directly to the Vampire post, or to the ring terminal. He stated that he used the ring. Then, I asked him what kind of iron he used to solder the CCGRs. He was using a 15 watt stick. Long story longer, he bought an 8200, and tried the CCGRs again. I wonder what he did with all those Vampire posts he had left
By Jove! I think you have it! That could very well have been what happened. I remember what a hard time I had soldering the connections with my 45w Weller (which I had always used for larger stuff). I have a big 60w now but maybe I need to invest in an 8200?
Thanks for the insight.
Bob
By Jove! I think you have it! That could very well have been what happened. I remember what a hard time I had soldering the connections with my 45w Weller (which I had always used for larger stuff). I have a big 60w now but maybe I need to invest in an 8200?
Thanks for the insight.
Bob
Bob,
If it is the block rounded out, let me know. I think I have a block or two around here. I'm sure you had the posts mounted tightly, but it does not hurt to check after soldering.
Thanks Jeff...will do. Appreciate the note. Unfortunately, I'm contending with another binding post problem with my Newforms...this time on one of the ribbons! I'll do another post for that.
Thanks Jeff...will do. Appreciate the note. Unfortunately, I'm contending with another binding post problem with my Newforms...this time on one of the ribbons! I'll do another post for that.
I've had one of those ribbons apart for bp repair
I can not recommend it
Something akin to the seventh circle of h&ll comes to mind. Looking back, it might have been better to send it back to John Mayer.
I've had one of those ribbons apart for bp repair
Something akin to the seventh circle of h&ll comes to mind. Looking back, it might have been better to send it back to John Mayer.
Yeah...I broke the sucker off...don't ask. I was hoping the middle ribbon panel could be simply removed to expose the bp's. No such luck! I contacted John for help/suggestions and first of all, he told me in no uncertain terms not to try taking the ribbon apart and implied that broken binding posts was petty much fatal...aarrgggh!
He offered one glimmer of hope. It involves drilling a small hole in the broken brass and soldering a wire to that. Not quite as simple as it sounds in this case because the break occurred down below the wire hole in the shaft of the one of the posts.
I'm moving cautiously, but right now the plan is to carefully remove (filing/cutting away) enough of the plastic/nylon from around the bp expose just enough brass so that I can drill and solder. Further suggestions welcomed!
Lesson in all this for other Newform owners: be extra careful with your ribbons and DON'T BREAK THE BINDING POSTS!
Jeff, so you prefer the Cardas CCGR (silver and rhodium). i am thinking about changing out my WBT style cheap fake binding posts (Gold). at the same time i change out my speaker cable and banana plugs (Furutech U-4T & Furutech 200B), i will want to change out the posts. i however have 1 small situation that you need to be aware of. when i re-did my crossovers, i deleted the need to solder my posts. the copper + PVC wire had an issue with the heat. since i knew i would have a cold solder joint, because to property heat the post, i would melt off the pvc insulation. i purchased gold ring terminals, i believe they are the standard 5/16" size for posts. so i need posts that has 2 nuts (i know, lol, funny funny....). i need to use one to install the posts to the cup, and another to lock the ring terminal down.
to add to the previous conservation, i have a 60w and 100w weller soldering iron. you have to use the 100w or else you will be there ALL day! i have only used that iron for the first round of crossovers and to terminate some connectors on a Falcon 900EX. it was a 90 degree connector and a 801 coax that used 95/5 silver solder. that 801 coax is a 12awg coax, super expensive stuff! that stuff was super thick and could take the heat. a 60w wouldn't even get the solder to flow.
anyways, since i am cheap, i checked out the specials page and saw the Vampire BPHEX ($15.5) and Vampire BPHEXCB ($35). the Cardas CCGR is $32.14 whats going to be the main sonic difference between the three? i am assuming since you already said you liked the CCGR, that there is a noticeable difference between it and any of the other vampires. with taking my gear and speakers into consideration with the change out in speaker wire and banana plugs, what should sound or work the best? i may also, in time, change out that Mil-spec IC wire for Neotech NEI-3003 matched with the Cardas SLVR's.
to add to the previous conservation, i have a 60w and 100w weller soldering iron. you have to use the 100w or else you will be there ALL day! i have only used that iron for the first round of crossovers and to terminate some connectors on a Falcon 900EX. it was a 90 degree connector and a 801 coax that used 95/5 silver solder. that 801 coax is a 12awg coax, super expensive stuff! that stuff was super thick and could take the heat. a 60w wouldn't even get the solder to flow.
anyways, since i am cheap, i checked out the specials page and saw the Vampire BPHEX ($15.5) and Vampire BPHEXCB ($35). the Cardas CCGR is $32.14 whats going to be the main sonic difference between the three? i am assuming since you already said you liked the CCGR, that there is a noticeable difference between it and any of the other vampires. with taking my gear and speakers into consideration with the change out in speaker wire and banana plugs, what should sound or work the best? i may also, in time, change out that Mil-spec IC wire for Neotech NEI-3003 matched with the Cardas SLVR's.
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