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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Near Gothenburg, the westcoast of Sweden
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So, Mr Rinsbag
How did this project went out in the end? I am at the stage of repairing one. Got this amp for free. One endstage is blown and this is one of the first threads I read about repairing it.
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Cheers// Ove |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Near Gothenburg, the westcoast of Sweden
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OK
I have taken action on this one. Late last night or early morning this day I had success I choosed Ilimzn suggestions on Fet's. IRFP340/IRFP9240. They are easy to get, and fairly cheap from my normal supplyers. The mentioned SK and SJ parts are harder to come by. It looks You have to buy them from E-bay. I changed the R7302 resistor in the bias circuit on the right channel, where I did this job. Lord Winter's suggestion, 4.7k ohm, was right on spot. There was some burned resitors around the old Fet's Current sensor circuit and also the 0.22 ohm R7318 resistor was broken. Checked power on the Driver board and also checked the driver boards last tranny, the buffer after the tube Q7110, and then I tried.... Easy on the variac, lowest Bias ..... poff, both Fet's shorted on all legs I didn't had a chance to measure or understand what happend. After another round, measuring resistors, unsolder and measuring transistors around the endstage I found one broken gate resistor. The 100 ohm R7308. Next time around I had my success I will listen some more today and maybe measure eventual difference between the two different endstages. I will probably change the old stage as well, so that they become the same. But for the moment I will relax and just listen to this fine amplifier. It's silent when it should and the sound is very good. ![]() I have a very low hiss on left channel which sound as a thermionic tube phenomenon. It comes and goes. I may have to buy new tubes later on. Anyhow this comment is for you all wondering if it's possible to use something else then the original Fet's. I have done it and it works very well so far And also, you do not need to change every transistor on the driver board or anywhere else. You just need to change the faulty parts. And another thing. Change the large electrolyth after the filament rectifier for the tubes. It's probably dry and has no uF value at all, as in the state my cap was.
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Cheers// Ove |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Near Gothenburg, the westcoast of Sweden
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After two days of running and checking contacts and tubes this baby now works perfekt. No hiss and hum, just music. The tubes measures excellent and even on the tubetester AVO MKIII.
Anyone else up and running this amp with satisfaction?
__________________
Cheers// Ove |
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