Just took delivery of my DC300A , it's a nice example !!
Been in a flight case all it's life so is in extremely good cosmetic condition.The flight case was obviously custom made as it has built in cooling fans and external XLR connectors for all the in's & outs , line etc. Haven't powered it up yet , wanted to have a nose around to prevent any unwanted problems. It's all original inside , never been messed with , no board fries or melt down evidence ! The only thing that is obvious is the line (mains) switch is worn at the pivots which makes it sloppy in operation.
So , does any1 have a NOS spare they can errr , spare please for some coins of your choice ?
Been in a flight case all it's life so is in extremely good cosmetic condition.The flight case was obviously custom made as it has built in cooling fans and external XLR connectors for all the in's & outs , line etc. Haven't powered it up yet , wanted to have a nose around to prevent any unwanted problems. It's all original inside , never been messed with , no board fries or melt down evidence ! The only thing that is obvious is the line (mains) switch is worn at the pivots which makes it sloppy in operation.
So , does any1 have a NOS spare they can errr , spare please for some coins of your choice ?
First of all you don't have a prize there worth a Kings ransom. The DC300 as build contains unbalanced 1/4'' connections not balanced XLR's. So the XLR's you have are for ease on connection only. The Power switch should be easily replacable at any radio parts store but don't spend over $10 on it because it just plain isn't worth it.
I have no illusions as to the value of the DC300A , I just like them for what they are & the fact it was a dream amp when I couldnt afford 1 !!
The amp hasn't been modded with XLR connectors , the connectors are part of the flight case panel. These are then connected to the amp with flying leads terminated with amp compatible jacks etc. This is obviously so that the amp could be used in the flight case with just the cases front & rear covers removed.
I was hoping to find an original line power switch to avoid having to modify the mountings or panel aperture.
I'm willing to spend enough to get one.
Thanks for your comments anyway.
The amp hasn't been modded with XLR connectors , the connectors are part of the flight case panel. These are then connected to the amp with flying leads terminated with amp compatible jacks etc. This is obviously so that the amp could be used in the flight case with just the cases front & rear covers removed.
I was hoping to find an original line power switch to avoid having to modify the mountings or panel aperture.
I'm willing to spend enough to get one.
Thanks for your comments anyway.
Tough amps regardless...
When I ran sound for some local bands, the singer dumped a full glass of beer down a 300A amp. Nice, pretty flash, and it shut down. The set ended early.
We got a blow dryer and some grain alcohol, flushed it out, and dried it with the dryer. It powered right back up, and we continued the set after a 30 minute 'interruption'.
When I ran sound for some local bands, the singer dumped a full glass of beer down a 300A amp. Nice, pretty flash, and it shut down. The set ended early.
We got a blow dryer and some grain alcohol, flushed it out, and dried it with the dryer. It powered right back up, and we continued the set after a 30 minute 'interruption'.
switch it on!
hello,
if you look closely at the two brass rivets that hold the switch bracket to the white platic bit, these sometimes come loose, infact they often break away..... all switches have a half moon plastic arrangement at the pivot point, which does give a little slack, and sometimes the two metal holes drift apart which gives a sloppy effect..... but the ones i have are pretty good....
I need a complete tx, because i havent got one at all lol lol!
send me £5.00 and i will send you a switch.....
they switches are tricky to line up into the front panel hole, the plate under the main board has four screws that you need to undo, this plate and the switch then has a certain amout of up down and side play. this is how you line the switch into the hole, dead basic engineering lol....
karl
hello,
if you look closely at the two brass rivets that hold the switch bracket to the white platic bit, these sometimes come loose, infact they often break away..... all switches have a half moon plastic arrangement at the pivot point, which does give a little slack, and sometimes the two metal holes drift apart which gives a sloppy effect..... but the ones i have are pretty good....
I need a complete tx, because i havent got one at all lol lol!
send me £5.00 and i will send you a switch.....
they switches are tricky to line up into the front panel hole, the plate under the main board has four screws that you need to undo, this plate and the switch then has a certain amout of up down and side play. this is how you line the switch into the hole, dead basic engineering lol....
karl
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