Carver C-1 Preamp Power Switch - diyAudio
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Old 18th February 2007, 08:32 PM   #1
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Default Carver C-1 Preamp Power Switch

Here is the photo of the Alps TV-5 switch from this unit. It does not power up and I suspected the switch. When I depress the on button (not plugged in), shouldn't I get continuity across the incoming power (black leads near the ceramic cap)? Also, why is it that I'm reading an open circuit across the red and both white and black leads when the button is depressed (unit on) and continuity when the button is not depressed (unit off)?
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Old 18th February 2007, 09:55 PM   #2
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I disconnected both the red and white leads from the switch and with the power button depressed, I get the power on light and everything functioning. Anyone have any idea what I'm doing, because I don't!
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Old 18th February 2007, 10:15 PM   #3
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi DreadPirate,
I'd have to look at the manual to answer your questions. But I have to ask, if you don't know what you are doing, why are you doing it???

That switch is unobtainium. Micron Electronics in Mississauga Ontario may possibly have one. Be prepared to pay for it if you need a switch.

That blue thingy is supposed to stop the contacts from arcing. The front part of the switch operates the muting circuit (from memory). What you need to do is troubleshoot it logically. The big part is 120 VAC, the front part is low voltage. Don't shock yourself.

-Chris
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Old 18th February 2007, 10:25 PM   #4
tvi is offline tvi  Australia
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Mouser list them
power switches.pdf

ALPS Power Switches

Regards
James
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Old 18th February 2007, 11:06 PM   #5
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi James,
That Alps list is cool. Thanks!

I didn't see those switches listed. There were very popular with Luxman and others as well as Carver. I remember the switch itself running around $20.00 CDN. That was my cost.

-Chris
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Old 19th February 2007, 12:29 AM   #6
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The form factor does not appear to correspond to any in the current ALPS literature. Could I just ignore the front end part and replace with an A/C switch? It seems to work fine. I'm still missing how I'm not getting continuity between the two black leads, isn't the switches function to make or break the connection between the black leads?
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Old 19th February 2007, 01:31 AM   #7
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi DreadPirate,
If you have the unit unplugged and push the switch in, can you measure resistance between the ends of the AC cord? You should measure the resistance of the transformer primary. Watch out for blown fuses. It is rare for this switch to fail.

-Chris
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Old 19th February 2007, 02:33 AM   #8
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I understand what you're saying about obtaining primary coil resistance across the power connector, but I read open with or without the switch in the "on" position. The two black wires on the power switch may activate the "switched" outlets on the rear of the unit. When I plug the unit in, I strangely get 6.6V on the "switched" outlets and 110V on the unswitched. When I activate the power switch, the "switched" outlets go to 110V and the unit turns on. Tracing those wires back, they see line voltage (110V).

I can't explain why, but by disconnecting the red and white wires (shown on the photo) from the switch, I can get the unit to turn on and off normally. When they were connected, the unit would not power on at all.

Maybe I should get ahold of the schematic?
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Old 19th February 2007, 03:27 AM   #9
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi DreadPirate,
Quote:
Maybe I should get ahold of the schematic?
Yup.

I wish I still had my manuals, I'd be able to tell you.

-Chris
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Old 9th March 2008, 08:48 AM   #10
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hi..these switches have double contacts ..the nubs on the opposite side ... are still useable ..just solder to the unused 2 contacts and you have a new switch!
zeenith@msn.com
denis
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