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Old 14th February 2007, 08:54 AM   #21
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Default Respecting if PNP or NPN, respecting the voltage limits of your transistor, the

current that they will operate.... selecting if they are Radio Frequency (do not use) or audio frequency the amplifier will operate.

It will operate with fakes, fauses, Junk parts, mismatched transistors will produce some off set to adjust.

This amplifier loves used (and already tested) parts.... have enormous passion by old greasy dirty condenser (you can clean them)

And feel very good if the construction is ugly...it will sound pretty even this way.

And will smash some amplifiers you may compare.... and will be almost so good as the better ones.

Good experience to destroy many myths.

Sorry to remember...shorted transistors will not work...but Germanium ones may operate if you take care with bias....One Germanium to the VAS will produce an incredible nice sounding...try it!...ahahahahah

regards,

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 10:33 AM   #22
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Default Those fake ones normally are lower power transistors..so... using it, it is better

...to install rail fuses and output fuse...at least to protect speakers if someone, underrated for the need, burn.

It is hard to know the ones are fake and the ones are not...it is confused, as some fakes are much better in details and quality..outside look, than the real ones.

Real ones...those Toshibas, are so awfull that you may think they are fake...it is hard to read the numbers on them

It is more probable to obtain good ones and imagine that they are fakes than the opposite.

Maybe this is the key...search for awfull ones...they may be good.

bye Sparkle

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 10:57 AM   #23
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Default The amplifier is playing...all day long..at nigth the volume goes zero but power on

I am inspecting it all day long...trying parts substitution and parts removal.

It is a real amplifier, not a simulator result..this sounds.

regards,

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 10:59 AM   #24
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Default The amplifier was simulated too..you can see it in full throotle

I made all i know about simulations.... Lineup will finish that simulation as he is good to use those programs.

Please line up..do it for us!

The stereo version is wainting....maybe i will remove some by pass capacitors, feedback capacitor or introduce bigger condensers somewhere..... testing is beeing done all day long... searching for audible increases.

regards,

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 11:04 AM   #25
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Default I am using my System's headphone output as my signal source


The headphone output is the only analogic audio i have there...and this output is very good...made with a good Phillips chip amplifier, dedicated to headphones....and there are many volts there...audio volts.

Impedance there is 32 ohms...reason why i am using an attenuator in my own circuit.... customized to my personal needs...this is not shown in the schematic provided.

regards,

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 11:19 AM   #26
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Default Mr Greg Erskine offered schematic, layout and parts list for us


Thank you very much Greg.... pretty work.

ATTENTION....my error...not Greg error...the VR1 trimpot is 10K..and it will be adjusted to 6362 ohms.

Also intall 1K resistance to both differential colectors..will work sligthly better than 820 ohms.

regards,

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 11:24 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by destroyer X
...to install rail fuses and output fuse...at least to protect speakers if someone, underrated for the need, burn.

It is hard to know the ones are fake and the ones are not...it is confused, as some fakes are much better in details and quality..outside look, than the real ones.

Real ones...those Toshibas, are so awfull that you may think they are fake...it is hard to read the numbers on them

It is more probable to obtain good ones and imagine that they are fakes than the opposite.

Maybe this is the key...search for awfull ones...they may be good.

bye Sparkle

Carlos


whoaaa....you are quick.....as someone told - to fast for us my friend.....you should call yourself "Turbo Carlos" not "Destroyer X"....the problem with fakes is not only smaller power that they can withstand but also some change related internal capacitances and this may produce some problems related stability.....that is why i have asked you to tell me if it will be stable with fakes and if i have to chenge some parts in sch if i use fakes....(i believe that in GEM guys have to change some values otherwise the stability of the amplifier is in question - i wonder if this is here the same thing - it seems it is not and that is good)


BTW.... nice schematic.....
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Old 14th February 2007, 11:26 AM   #28
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Default Here is the PCB


Attached.

regards,

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 11:27 AM   #29
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Default Here you have the tracks


regards,

Carlos
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Old 14th February 2007, 11:31 AM   #30
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Default Here is the parts list...bom as Greg said.

DX The amplifier - Bill of Materials

Date last updated: 14 February 2007


Table of contents
Semiconductors 1-1
Capacitors 1-1
Resistors 1-2
Miscellaneous 1-2

Semiconductors
Qty Value Notes
Q1, Q2 2 2N5401 PNP Input differential pair
Alternatives: BC556, BF423, BC556 and BC640*
Q3 1 TIP41 NPN Voltage amplification stage (VAS)
Alternatives: BD139
Q4 1 TIP41 NPN Driver
Alternatives: BD139, MJ340, TIP31
Q5 1 TIP42 PNP Driver
Alternatives: BD140, MJ350, TIP32
Q6 1 2SC5200 NPN Output
Q7 1 2SA1943 PNP Output
Z1 1 1N4742 12V Zener diode 200mW or more

Capacitors
Qty Value Notes
C1 1 4u7F MKT Polyester
C2, C4, C7, C8, C11, C13, C15, C17, C18 9 100nF MKT Polyester
C3, C6, C12 3 47uF/50V Electrolytic
C5 1 220pF NPO Ceramic
C9 1 12pF NPO Ceramic / Silver Mica
C10 1 220uF/16V Electrolytic
C14 1 5p6F NPO Ceramic / Silver Mica
C16, C19 2 1,000uF/50V Electrolytic

Resistors
Qty Value Notes
R1 Not used
R2, R6, R10 3 2k2
R3, R11 2 39k
R4, R8 2 100
R5 1 1k
R7 1 4k7
R9 1 1K
R12 1 2k2 1 watt
R13 1 2k7 1 watt
R14 1 330
R15, R18 2 82
R16, R17 2 33
R19 1 120
R20, R21 2 4R7
R22 1 10 1 watt
R23 1 10
VR1 1 10K
VR2 1 100
Note: All resistors are standard metal film 250mW except were noted.

Miscellaneous
Qty Value Notes
L1 1 27 turns of 0.6mm enamelled copper wire is wound around R23 forming the output coil.
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