Post your Solid State pics here.

[pinnocchio]

Originally Posted by kamranyousaf

Sir,

Can u plz share its Schematic with parts list & PCB (Just power amp's not protection circuit etc) etc at kamran.yousafb@gmail.com

Hi kamranyousaf,

You can go to AMB's web site here The β24 Fully-differential Power Amplifier and request the schematics. Ti has a BOM for it as well. You can access their store and buy the PCBs and some of the parts if needed.

Thanks
Do

[kamranyousaf]

Originally Posted by pinnocchio

Hi kamranyousaf,

You can go to AMB's web site here The β24 Fully-differential Power Amplifier and request the schematics. Ti has a BOM for it as well. You can access their store and buy the PCBs and some of the parts if needed.

Thanks
Do

Thanks Dear ,

Have you tried their schematics & pcb's etc.

[pinnocchio]

Originally Posted by kamranyousaf

Thanks Dear ,

Have you tried their schematics & pcb's etc.

Yep,

The version I built is using their PCBs. It is four layer so it would be quite hard to do this properly with only two layers.

The price is good for this level of quality

Don't hesitate, just buy! You'll love it

Do

[rfj5106]

This is my second L20 amplfier with 10 less volts in the transformer secondaries but 1 ampere of current more than the previous amp had. This amp runs cool while the last one runs quite warm. Both have the same size heat sinks. The L20 is a fairly popular circuit board offered for sale by several Ebay vendors. I liked my first one and decided to build another using dual Hammond 182F30 transformers that I had on hand. I substituted the new L20 for the old L20 and did not hear a difference. The old L20 had bumped an aging Carver TFM-15b which was relegated to driving the rear speakers in my 5.1 system. The new L20 bumps the Carver once again. The Carver will be appearing on Craigslist soon.

This amp incorporates a 'soft start' circuit that activates when the red button is pressed on the front. I however, want to know when AC power is reaching the amplifier and I wanted to be able to turn off the AC to the amplifier without shutting down my whole system so hence the toggle switch and amber light. The amber light signifies that AC is applied to the amp, the green light signifies the red button has been pushed and the amp is completely powered up. The soft start circuit also has 2 temperature sensors that attach to the heat sink and shuts down the AC if the heat sink reaches 75 C. There is also a speaker relay circuit which mutes the amp at start up and shut down.

The meters in front are connected to the speaker output by JLM (of Australia) buffer boards. The level controls attenuate the input signals. I used 100K Alps because that is what I had, but 50K would be better suited. Adding meters and level controls is a royal pain and very time consuming and I see why most builders forgo this. Front power switches are also a pain. But I find these features to be very useful and hard to live without.

To save space, I stacked the power supply boards and the toroidal transformers. Is this a bad idea? Comment would be welcome on the pros and cons of this.

I am quite pleased with sound. I will probably build another L20.

[kamranyousaf]

Originally Posted by pinnocchio

Yep,

The version I built is using their PCBs. It is four layer so it would be quite hard to do this properly with only two layers.

The price is good for this level of quality

Don't hesitate, just buy! You'll love it

Do

Would you please share it with me.

[kamranyousaf]

Originally Posted by rfj5106

This is my second L20 amplfier with 10 less volts in the transformer secondaries but 1 ampere of current more than the previous amp had. This amp runs cool while the last one runs quite warm. Both have the same size heat sinks. The L20 is a fairly popular circuit board offered for sale by several Ebay vendors. I liked my first one and decided to build another using dual Hammond 182F30 transformers that I had on hand. I substituted the new L20 for the old L20 and did not hear a difference. The old L20 had bumped an aging Carver TFM-15b which was relegated to driving the rear speakers in my 5.1 system. The new L20 bumps the Carver once again. The Carver will be appearing on Craigslist soon.

This amp incorporates a 'soft start' circuit that activates when the red button is pressed on the front. I however, want to know when AC power is reaching the amplifier and I wanted to be able to turn off the AC to the amplifier without shutting down my whole system so hence the toggle switch and amber light. The amber light signifies that AC is applied to the amp, the green light signifies the red button has been pushed and the amp is completely powered up. The soft start circuit also has 2 temperature sensors that attach to the heat sink and shuts down the AC if the heat sink reaches 75 C. There is also a speaker relay circuit which mutes the amp at start up and shut down.

The meters in front are connected to the speaker output by JLM (of Australia) buffer boards. The level controls attenuate the input signals. I used 100K Alps because that is what I had, but 50K would be better suited. Adding meters and level controls is a royal pain and very time consuming and I see why most builders forgo this. Front power switches are also a pain. But I find these features to be very useful and hard to live without.

To save space, I stacked the power supply boards and the toroidal transformers. Is this a bad idea? Comment would be welcome on the pros and cons of this.

I am quite pleased with sound. I will probably build another L20.

Sir,

Would you please share its schematic Thanks.

[hpasternack]

Symasym 5.3 based on the original PCB artwork. I extensively reworked a surplus chassis from an old electron microscope controller to build the box. Sounds nice.

-Henry

[Junie]

Beautiful

[kees52]

very nice made, only a on off switch, that is what I like.

[pinnocchio]

Nice work!