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#1811 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Very nicely made. Please post more pictures of your progress.
Here is another beauty shot of mine... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Cheers |
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#1812 |
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diyAudio Member
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#1813 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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The "far side" ..... nice neat , compact SMD. Run dem babies , I wanna see a 120V p-p squarewave w/ 1uS rise
![]() Oh , I feel so primitive I just had to enjoy a big glass of " vino" . I guess "no fine wine before it's time".... same with the DIY PCB's (below 1). First pair work fine , but have a slight thermal "issue" (but not a burning amp). Hopefully, this pair will work as good as they sound (thermally). I must fill that glass half way up to be truly subjective. ![]() PS - PCB's are:starting left.... 2 X nikko PB120's (corrected version) and 2 X EX1.2 voltage stages (goldmund inspired). 1st PB120 is powered to test cap MUX'es. (below 2/3) the AX - being abused at 10Khz 60V p-p. OS
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Mongrel website , always current and updated : http://www.fidelityforce.com/ostripper |
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#1814 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ΔΡΑΜΑ - North Greece
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Quote:
I would like to see a picture of your PCBs from the solder side. FOS
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#1815 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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(below 1) is the solder side of the soon- to- go thermally unbalanced, but awesome sounding Nikko pb120's.
(below 2 - big board) is what I will have to do to get rock solid 60ma/device operation (fully separate heatsinks per amp). Nikko must of used ultra matched sankens + no base stoppers to get at least a close balance of idle current per device. Even in it's imperfect state , the amp can be pushed all day rail to rail with no issues. Unfortunately , I am a "perfectionist". I will show the whole thing in a week with the "big board". OS
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#1816 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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I found it curbside.
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#1817 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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Fix it (schema attached) , it's a "pretty" receiver. Recap the power board , regrease the outputs (or replace with mj15003/4). If you were to make a new amp for it , design the PCB to be a exact replacement (no drilling). looks like the kenwood has a good, simple LIN topology EF2 AB amp with TO-3 outputs ... 55-0-55V PS ... typical.
OS
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#1818 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Quote:
Thanks for the information. I looked at replacement capacitors when I first found it. I admittedly need to get better with a soldering iron. Don't want to burn down the house. |
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#1819 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Albany , NY (smallbany)
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Finally it's done...
What a PITA to redo a Nikko , no wonder others never concluded the job.(attachment 1) is the wine /bottom , wired in the classic Japanese hi-fi style. Yellow led is the main speaker relay board (protection to come soon) (Attachment 2) is the top view , 2 PS's (65-0-65V and 58-0-58V) , nice and tidy. (Attachment 3 ) is how I got this far , had to make a special board or go for bust. Each amp has it own heatsink , 10C - 35C / 13-14mv (60mA - all OP devices) ... perfect Vbe. Sound is VERY detailed , quite the punch .. as well !! OS
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#1820 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Quote:
Hoya Fan |
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