I could not decide if I would use white or blue. Next best thing? why not try something unique?
I was able to scavenge this LED from a scrap board. It's more like white with a baby blue-like tinge to it. Maybe similar but a little lighter than the Mcintosh blue meter displays. I hope I make sense.
Sorry for the picture quality since I used my phone cam. The digital cam gets confused and shows it only as white.
I was able to scavenge this LED from a scrap board. It's more like white with a baby blue-like tinge to it. Maybe similar but a little lighter than the Mcintosh blue meter displays. I hope I make sense.
Sorry for the picture quality since I used my phone cam. The digital cam gets confused and shows it only as white.
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Black/dark knob and switch on silvery background doesn't look good. You need to use knob of similar color. Then white or blue led doesn't matter much but I think blue is slightly better because it sets the "boundary" more clearly than white.
If you paint the faceplate (to black), I prefer red or blue led. Red on black is commonly perceived as luxurious.
Thanks guys it does sound bloody marvellous
C1 in the input cap and C2 is the feedback cap they are both mil spec wet tants at the moment which I like as the sound is very clean, fast dynamic with good bass.
Many of the other guys at PFM also use big AVX films in there and I heard a pair of monoblocks with them and they sound also excellent and a little smoother probably sweeter. some brave guys use no input cap at all.
I do intend to build another one of these and use the films, ill compare them then Bi amp with them probably put the films on the tweeters
Alan
C1 in the input cap and C2 is the feedback cap they are both mil spec wet tants at the moment which I like as the sound is very clean, fast dynamic with good bass.
Many of the other guys at PFM also use big AVX films in there and I heard a pair of monoblocks with them and they sound also excellent and a little smoother probably sweeter. some brave guys use no input cap at all.
I do intend to build another one of these and use the films, ill compare them then Bi amp with them probably put the films on the tweeters
Alan
fit 4 fuses.
on the mains feed to the primary. Close rate this.
on each PSU supply rail after the main smoothing. Rate this to suit the maximum current into the rated load.
on the speaker feed. Rate this to suit maximum current into the rated load.
These might not save the amplifier from damage, but should save the transformer & PSU and speaker.
This is my Hackernap Amp in a Modushop case
Alan
Are those things NP electrolytics in the signal path? The C2s?
Oops, somebody else posted something similar.
Good point tho; I'd get some ClarityCap 250v jobbies in there.
Are those things NP electrolytics in the signal path? The C2s?
Oops, somebody else posted something similar.
Good point tho; I'd get some ClarityCap 250v jobbies in there.
Hi I did try some in another amp a while ago on the input cap but they softened everything went beck to the wet tant in the end ?
A big film on the feedback is a good option if you can get on 68uf
Alan
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337 - May I ask where you sourced those enclosures shown immediately ^^ above?
Nice execution on the amp build. I like the idea of separating a power supply from main amp. But the heatsinks were with the power supply??? And the bridge were with the module??? More detail, please.
They are from modushop.biz I think this site has a deal with them, they are nice quality cases
Alan