NAD 3020 input jack problem

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Hi. I purchased a NAD 3020 a month ago. The input jacks worked when I got it, but somehow damaged when I tried to put male cable-It was very hard to connect so I probably put it too strongly.

Right now, only 1 source(tape) is working in both channels. Only 1 channel is working in Aux and Tuner input. Both of them are damaged in right channel input, which are located in deeper position.(You know what I mean if you have had this amp)

How could I fix this myself? Thanks in advance.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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The way the RCAs are board mounted on the 3020 often leads to failure. You can try resoldering -- if that doesn't work, the actual jacks are probably broken -- you'd need to replace them (i'd drill some holes in the back, mount chassis mount RCAs and run a short bit of wire from the board to the new jacks.

dave
 
I had the solder joint on one of my phonos crack, re-soldering fixed it. A swap-in replacement phono looks hard, I've searched every connector-maker for that footprint; I think I'll be following planet10's suggestion.

It's also worth cleaning out the switches with a contact cleaner aerosol, they can give channel loss.
 
Thanks for your replies. I don't have any experience or knowledge about soldering. But I think I can get some help from my co-worker, though I have to do the main job. Could you give a little more detail exactly which part to solder? Starting from which part to open first? Thanks a bunch.

John
 
ychousa said:
Thanks for your replies. I don't have any experience or knowledge about soldering. But I think I can get some help from my co-worker, though I have to do the main job. Could you give a little more detail exactly which part to solder? Starting from which part to open first? Thanks a bunch.

John

So far the jacks on my 3020 are ok. I did notice that most of the board is accessible for soldering by removing the bottom (gold coloured) metal panel of the amp. However, this does not give access to the very back of the board where the RCAs are mounted. I'm not sure if further dissassembly of the black metal frame around the rear part will allow access, or if the board has to be removed from the case completely to fix these.
Adding jacks to the back plate is a good idea, but you'd also have to make sure they clear the regulator board. In general, I find working on the 3020 a pain, with so many little odd wires all over the place, and awkward construction of the case... but I'm getting used to it, and slowly removing some of the unnecessary wires... :)
 
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