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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Auckland NZ
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Hi Tcpip,
In your original post you said that you left the source resistors etc. out because of space constraints (presumably of the Eagle software). You shouldn't let details like that affect your designs. If you didn't know, Protel's Autotrax is available as a free download. It's small (dos based), easy to use, allows you to create your own component libraries, and supports very large board sizes (about 36" by 36 " I think). Here's a link: http://www.altium.com/Community/Support/Downloads/ There's also a Windows XP video driver available at: http://www.airborn.com.au/layout/easytrax.html I hope this helps |
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#12 | |||||||||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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AndrewT, thanks hugely for the patient reply.
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How do you decide what CCS current you need for a VAS when doing a fresh design? What if I remove the VAS current limiting (Q17 and R20) completely? Am I right in saying that R14 sets the VAS CCS current in my circuit? Other than that, I understood your current limiting discussion completely, I think. Quote:
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Thanks for your huge patience. You've made a permanent difference to my knowledge about amp design. |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi Tc,
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VAS CCS current seems to vary between 3mA and 30mA depending on what follows, what the VAS itself can stand, what current best suits the VAS characteristics and the designer's choices. Remove current limiting and you risk losing the VAS due to overcurrent, either due to a difficult load or due to output abuse. R14 and the controlling Q4 set the VAS current. Yes, it will still work, but how unbalanced are the case temperatures and for how long. Be gentle, it may run forever and sound OK. Yes, copy the current setting CCS for both transistors. But keep in mind some do not agree with this view. The fuses will NEVER be fast enough to protect the semiconductors. Some humous wag once said we put semis in to protect the fuses. He was so close to correct that it gets requoted often. The fuses will provide longterm protection to save the heatsinks melting and if correctly rated may save a bass driver from burning out. Don't make c7 too big. Remember that correlation to PSU. |
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Quote:
That's why Eagle and Vutrax are the only semi-professional or professional solutions I can easily use. Of these, I find Eagle about a thousand times easier to use than Vutrax. I haven't been able to figure out Vutrax enough to even design the smallest PCB yet. Why, I can't even figure out what components the Vutrax library has. Thanks for the suggestion anyway... if I ever switch to Windows for PCB design, I'll look up Protel. |
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#15 | ||||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Thanks again for the prompt and patient reply.
You haven't told me where to find Leach's writings, other than his Low-TIM amp Webpages. [QUOTE]Originally posted by AndrewT Quote:
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Thanks again. |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
You don't need a base resistor for the CCS. PSU time constant = speaker impedance * smoothing capacitance. try +-20mF for 8ohm and +-40mF for 4ohm. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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I tried to design a PCB for this circuit, and this is what I got.
It has three power grounds and one signal ground, all meant to be separately connected to an off-board star ground. The signal ground just provides the ground reference for the input signal and the NFB components. All other grounds are connected to one of the other three ground points. I've kept space for a Bourns 3299 trimpot; a slimmer 3296 will fit in the same space (I believe the 3299 is supposed to be more reliable, because it has multiple wipers, not just one). Transistor pairs for CCS, LTP diff pair, and current mirror can be made to be close to each other.... it'll take me a few minutes of work. You can see the board is fairly tightly packed in spite of being DS PTH, because of the small Eagle board size constraints. Will this PCB work? This is my first power amp PCB attempt. |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Hi AndrewT,
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The small resistor in series with the rheostat is basically for safety, right? To prevent the builder setting too high a Vbias inadvertently? One general question: will a one-size-fits-all 1K:1K voltage divider do for all situations? How do you decide what value of trimpot to use for a particular amp? But I'm confused with respect to one fact: when reading Rod Elliott's P3A construction instructions, he says "start by setting the rheostat to the minimum resistance." If I've understood you right, this is dangerous because this is when the biasing will be maximum. (Rod's design uses a 1K:2K voltage divider, incidentally.) Did I understand Rod wrong, then? I've built a P3A pair.... does this mean I just got lucky when building it? I looked at my amp PCB (posted in the previous post) and found that there's enough space to easily add one more resistor near the trimpot. I'll do that now. |
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Quote:
And when calculating the PSU time constant, should I just take the on-board rail decoupling C into account, or also the off-board cap bank's C? Thanks again.
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#20 | |||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi Tc,
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