Quad 405-2 Problem

pborlace · 11th October 2006, 10:09 PM

My amp recently blew FS2 and I'm now reading 50v DC across the fuse holder. I've checked all the resistor values, checked TR1, TR3, TR4. I've replace blown TR10 and checked all other transistors. I've replaced C10, C19, C18 and C17 as a matter of course as I'd already bought the components to upgrade the amp. I'm still getting 50V at the fuse holder, any ideas please?

Thanks
Peter

Wavebourn · 12th October 2006, 04:27 AM

Can you post schematics, please?

Snorkeltjes · 12th October 2006, 08:22 AM

What do you read across FS1 without fuse?
I think it is normal cause there isn'd any current without the fuse.

RogerGustavsson · 12th October 2006, 09:18 AM

FS1 and FS2 are in series with the normal suppy lines. Should it not be about 50V at all times?

pborlace · 12th October 2006, 09:29 AM

The circuit diagram is at the following link. http://www.dc-daylight.ltd.uk/Valve-...-Evolution.pdf I haven't copied it in case of copyright. My boards are M12565 issue 6. which is page seven of the diagrams.

Thanks
Peter

pborlace · 12th October 2006, 09:29 AM

I've just tested it again and now I get 0.0012v across bothe fs1 and fs2 but when I insert the fuses fs2 immediately blows.

AndrewT · 12th October 2006, 09:36 AM

Hi,
assemble a mains light bulb into a wander lead. The light bulb is wired in series with the LIVE wire only.

It will allow you to plug in the faulty amp without the risk of blowing the whole thing up.

When operating normally the bulb flashes briefly at switch on and then either goes off or glows very dimly.
If it glows bright and you are using an amp with a very high quiescent dissipation then choose a higher wattage bulb (40W to 150W).

If the amp is faulty and tries to draw too much current, the bulb lights up normally and the amp sees only a few volts across the mains transformer. This can allow some measurements to be taken to help locate the fault.
Power dissipation with the bulb inline is very low and nothing gets hot, although some components might just get warm.

edl · 12th October 2006, 09:38 AM

Is Tr8 alive?

pborlace · 12th October 2006, 11:10 AM

Just to add, I've tested the voltage across fs1 and fs2 on the working board and now I'm getting the 0.0012v across both. Only problem is as I've said, the bad board keeps blowing the fusae at FS2.

Thanks
Peter

pborlace · 12th October 2006, 12:04 PM

TR8 tested and ok.

Thanks
Peter

11th October 2006, 10:09 PM	#1
pborlace diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Quad 405-2 Problem My amp recently blew FS2 and I'm now reading 50v DC across the fuse holder. I've checked all the resistor values, checked TR1, TR3, TR4. I've replace blown TR10 and checked all other transistors. I've replaced C10, C19, C18 and C17 as a matter of course as I'd already bought the components to upgrade the amp. I'm still getting 50V at the fuse holder, any ideas please? Thanks Peter

12th October 2006, 04:27 AM	#2
Wavebourn diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Pleasant Hill, CA	Can you post schematics, please? __________________ If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative.

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12th October 2006, 08:22 AM	#3
Snorkeltjes diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	What do you read across FS1 without fuse? I think it is normal cause there isn'd any current without the fuse.

12th October 2006, 09:18 AM	#4
RogerGustavsson diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Huskvarna	FS1 and FS2 are in series with the normal suppy lines. Should it not be about 50V at all times?

12th October 2006, 09:29 AM	#5
pborlace diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	The circuit diagram is at the following link. http://www.dc-daylight.ltd.uk/Valve-...-Evolution.pdf I haven't copied it in case of copyright. My boards are M12565 issue 6. which is page seven of the diagrams. Thanks Peter

12th October 2006, 09:36 AM	#7
AndrewT diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Scottish Borders	Hi, assemble a mains light bulb into a wander lead. The light bulb is wired in series with the LIVE wire only. It will allow you to plug in the faulty amp without the risk of blowing the whole thing up. When operating normally the bulb flashes briefly at switch on and then either goes off or glows very dimly. If it glows bright and you are using an amp with a very high quiescent dissipation then choose a higher wattage bulb (40W to 150W). If the amp is faulty and tries to draw too much current, the bulb lights up normally and the amp sees only a few volts across the mains transformer. This can allow some measurements to be taken to help locate the fault. Power dissipation with the bulb inline is very low and nothing gets hot, although some components might just get warm.

12th October 2006, 09:38 AM	#8
edl diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	Is Tr8 alive?

12th October 2006, 11:10 AM	#9
pborlace diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Just to add, I've tested the voltage across fs1 and fs2 on the working board and now I'm getting the 0.0012v across both. Only problem is as I've said, the bad board keeps blowing the fusae at FS2. Thanks Peter

12th October 2006, 12:04 PM	#10
pborlace diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	TR8 tested and ok. Thanks Peter