Be heard, have fun!
I am reading and listening to anatech, rdf, latala, wrenchone, djk, poobah, burnedfinger, quasi, mr T, planet10, tubelab...
and everybody else who takes the time to post. I hope you all come out to the polls. It is your right as a DIY AUDIO Citizen!
Turning up the fun meter some more,
Shawn.
I am reading and listening to anatech, rdf, latala, wrenchone, djk, poobah, burnedfinger, quasi, mr T, planet10, tubelab...
and everybody else who takes the time to post. I hope you all come out to the polls. It is your right as a DIY AUDIO Citizen!
Turning up the fun meter some more,
Shawn.
For me I would not! go the quasie route
While it is a credible design I dont feel it either restores the Crown or take amplifier design forward a single jot!!
You have relegated the Crown to that of a donor.
I would rather some one use me than consigne the Crown to that fate !
You have lost the current boosting facility if you go with Quasie.s design a most important Crown feature no offence intended Quasie
For me the real challenge would be to get the booster concept really working rather akin to the quad concept!
regards Trev
While it is a credible design I dont feel it either restores the Crown or take amplifier design forward a single jot!!
You have relegated the Crown to that of a donor.
I would rather some one use me than consigne the Crown to that fate !
You have lost the current boosting facility if you go with Quasie.s design a most important Crown feature no offence intended Quasie
For me the real challenge would be to get the booster concept really working rather akin to the quad concept!
regards Trev
re-anodizing fraught with peril?
says who?
which parts need anodizing? the transistor heat sinks or the chasis?
inquiring minds want to know...
poobah said:Restore it!
Quit worrying about the semi's... they are not blown? Use 'em.
Clean it... cap it... resistor it. Leave the battle scars too. Or go nuts and replate every thing. BTW... re-anodizing something is fraught with peril.
Borrow some speakers from Cal and punish bad people with it.
says who?
which parts need anodizing? the transistor heat sinks or the chasis?
inquiring minds want to know...
Hi poobah,
-Chris
I think Shawn is wanting to improve the performance of this old horse. Use 'em? Nah, lose 'em. Use the nice shiny new parts and see if the original concept works better. Besides, some of those parts were running too hot over 30 years now. They are just waiting to take some other parts with them. Dodge that bullet.
-Chris
Chris,
Sure... why not?
Auplater,
Spill it... I had some alum. window moldings for a Lamborghini re-anodized once. Let's just say I spent about a week with hammers and an English wheel to make new ones. I think they got the current per area thing screwed up... dunno... fried them though.
How do get the old stuff off?
Sure... why not?
Auplater,
Spill it... I had some alum. window moldings for a Lamborghini re-anodized once. Let's just say I spent about a week with hammers and an English wheel to make new ones. I think they got the current per area thing screwed up... dunno... fried them though.
How do get the old stuff off?
anodizing
hmmnnn... curious since the current density is more or less pre-set @ 20ma/cm^2 for standard anodizing and the voltage runs free up to 36 volts or so in 15% H2SO4 @ nominal conditions.
on lambo parts, I'd be xtra queasy if I screwed THAT up!... neighbor across the street has a competition clutch modded Lambo with the 10K gold paint and 400 miles on it he picked up as an investment from a Dallas Cowboys lineman in financial trouble.. paid $275K in 2005 and claims it's now worth in excess of $400K... who knows... he was showing me the V12 mid engine (or is it V16)? when the latch fell off the lid and he couldn't close it
To get the old stuff off, if I recall, you can either strip it in caustic (carefully) or boil it in dilute chromic acid, but I'll have to look it up... the chromic acid won't touch the aluminum, but the caustic will and needs to be watched. Hard anodizing takes a lot more effort, since it has some of the properties of corundum.
poobah said:
hmmnnn... curious since the current density is more or less pre-set @ 20ma/cm^2 for standard anodizing and the voltage runs free up to 36 volts or so in 15% H2SO4 @ nominal conditions.
on lambo parts, I'd be xtra queasy if I screwed THAT up!... neighbor across the street has a competition clutch modded Lambo with the 10K gold paint and 400 miles on it he picked up as an investment from a Dallas Cowboys lineman in financial trouble.. paid $275K in 2005 and claims it's now worth in excess of $400K... who knows... he was showing me the V12 mid engine (or is it V16)? when the latch fell off the lid and he couldn't close it
To get the old stuff off, if I recall, you can either strip it in caustic (carefully) or boil it in dilute chromic acid, but I'll have to look it up... the chromic acid won't touch the aluminum, but the caustic will and needs to be watched. Hard anodizing takes a lot more effort, since it has some of the properties of corundum.
I'd be afraid of any "plain old" plating shop doing that anodizing. Most plating places don't have a brain like yours (auplater) on hand.
The worst? I took every yellow-cad piece under the hood of a Gullwing to be redone. Someone left the whole load in the "pickling" tank over the weekend. Of the handful of parts that survived... you could snap them in half with your fingers. I had to make all that stuff too. Lucky I had another customer with a gull wing so I could duplicate all the parts (100's).
The worst? I took every yellow-cad piece under the hood of a Gullwing to be redone. Someone left the whole load in the "pickling" tank over the weekend. Of the handful of parts that survived... you could snap them in half with your fingers. I had to make all that stuff too. Lucky I had another customer with a gull wing so I could duplicate all the parts (100's).
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