Hi,
Depends on the skill of the one doing the mods. It should be easy.
Isolate the Left and Right record outputs centre pins (the ground should be correct and can be left) by whatever means is most suitable... cutting the print etc. Add say a 1k resistor from each centre pin to ground, and add a resistor from that same point to the appropriate output. The value depends on the sensitivity of the sub but 22k would be a reasonable starting point I would guess.
For some reason this thread isn't notifying me of your posting.
Depends on the skill of the one doing the mods. It should be easy.
Isolate the Left and Right record outputs centre pins (the ground should be correct and can be left) by whatever means is most suitable... cutting the print etc. Add say a 1k resistor from each centre pin to ground, and add a resistor from that same point to the appropriate output. The value depends on the sensitivity of the sub but 22k would be a reasonable starting point I would guess.
For some reason this thread isn't notifying me of your posting.
will this device do the job? (sorry I couldn´t post the picture...)
Russound ADP-1.2 Speaker-level to Line-level Adapter at Crutchfield.com
Russound ADP-1.2 Speaker-level to Line-level Adapter at Crutchfield.com
Thank you! I will pass all the information to the "skilled ones" ;-) I hope they are, they used to represent B&W, NAD, KRELL, MARTIN LOGAN, etc. down here.. And now they became Bang & Olufsen!
I'll let you know how everything goes (and maybe ask you some more advise!). Thanks a lot, again! Regard,
Andres
I'll let you know how everything goes (and maybe ask you some more advise!). Thanks a lot, again! Regard,
Andres
Hi again! As you may already know (and forgot 
I own an Aura Va 100 evolution II, currently driving a pair of B&W DM 604 (series 1). I'm tempted to try it with a pair of Martin Logan Stylos hybrids...
I understand that these are very personal and subjective considertions, but would you change the B&W boxes for the MLs electrostatics? I also hace an AR Sw30 active subwoofer, so I guess I won't miss the lower bass....
Now to the technical stuff... Will the Aura be able to drive the MLs? The Aura is rated at 66wpc @8 ohms, I have been searching the web but couldn't find any rating for the Aura in 4 Ohms.... According to the ML website, the Stylos are rated 4Ohm but go as down as 2 Ohm in high frecquencies...
I have been offered to take the Stylos home and test them, but don´t want to blow up the amp while testing!
Thanks for your valuable input, regards,
Andrés
I own an Aura Va 100 evolution II, currently driving a pair of B&W DM 604 (series 1). I'm tempted to try it with a pair of Martin Logan Stylos hybrids... I understand that these are very personal and subjective considertions, but would you change the B&W boxes for the MLs electrostatics? I also hace an AR Sw30 active subwoofer, so I guess I won't miss the lower bass....
Now to the technical stuff... Will the Aura be able to drive the MLs? The Aura is rated at 66wpc @8 ohms, I have been searching the web but couldn't find any rating for the Aura in 4 Ohms.... According to the ML website, the Stylos are rated 4Ohm but go as down as 2 Ohm in high frecquencies...
I have been offered to take the Stylos home and test them, but don´t want to blow up the amp while testing!
Thanks for your valuable input, regards,
Andrés
Hi,
Trevor at Guildford Audio here - I have just had one of these amplifiers on the bench for a repair and it sounds like it may be the same problem. If I bypassed the contacts of the output relay the amplifier worked apart from the switch on noise through the speakers whilst the amplifier stabalised. This I found to be a problem with some of the PCB connector pins on the small PSU board located on the front L/H side of the amplifier (With the controls facing you). once re-solded all worked as normal. It seems the connections of these are not great or work loose with time so I went over the remaining while I had it in bits.
I hope this may be useful although some time ago.
Regards
Trevor
Trevor at Guildford Audio here - I have just had one of these amplifiers on the bench for a repair and it sounds like it may be the same problem. If I bypassed the contacts of the output relay the amplifier worked apart from the switch on noise through the speakers whilst the amplifier stabalised. This I found to be a problem with some of the PCB connector pins on the small PSU board located on the front L/H side of the amplifier (With the controls facing you). once re-solded all worked as normal. It seems the connections of these are not great or work loose with time so I went over the remaining while I had it in bits.
I hope this may be useful although some time ago.
Regards
Trevor
I have one of these Aura VA100-2 amps, and it started to develop a problem with age:
the volume control starts to crackle when turned, and it has audible volume difference between left and right channel in the lower volume range. Does anybody know what type of volume control goes in, and/or if it can it be replaced by a better one?
the volume control starts to crackle when turned, and it has audible volume difference between left and right channel in the lower volume range. Does anybody know what type of volume control goes in, and/or if it can it be replaced by a better one?
Aura Evolution VA100 II - Protection Relay problem
Greetings
Picked up from an OP shop recently an Aura Evolution VA100 II.
the unit looked like it had been through Hell and back and it was missing both the 'Input' and 'Volume' knobs. Had no reason to expect the amp to work either so I bought for $60 NZ Dollars. The vendor was kind enough to give me my money back if the amp was a non runner. Can't be fairer than that aye!
Took it home and started to cleaning / dismantling process (as one does) after powering it up and finding only the Left Channel working.... At this point, the Protection Relay was working too. dismantling and and looking at the copper side of the PCB revealed
that some one had soldered wires on the Protection Relay output poles, thus defeating it.
The Protection Relay was at fault (Left channel pole was not switching) which is why that was done. Have since replaced the original Protection Relay with a near equivalent which it now operates as it should on BOTH poles. It also turned turned out that the Head Phone PCB had a blown line resister for the Left Channel too. Both Protection Relay and that resister
replaced... Had BOTH my channels back.
The Engineers at B & W created a very smart solution to switching between Head Phones
to Main Speakers. The Protection Relay acts as that switch the moment the Head Phone plug
is inserted.
Here is my problem now. When you power up the amp, the Protection Relay doesn't always switch. When you de-power, then power up again, the Protection Relay may trigger. This night take a few goes at powering up before it triggers. once it has, it operates perfectly (plugging is the Head Phones then taking them out again for the Main Speakers to operate. If one de-powers the amp after that then immediately re-powers again.... it's 'hit' or 'miss' as whether the Protection Relay will trigger again.
When this amp goes, it literally blows my Musical Fidelity A200 (Class A) out the door. It's that good.
B & W really made a beautifully sounding, very musical with incredible BASS too. It really makes
my Castle Inversion 50's really come alive.
Is there any kind soul out there that could point me in the right direction to remedy this.
I'm no Electronics Expert... Just know enough to be dangerous
I'm sure I could repair it if I knew what component within the Protection Relay circuit to
interrogate.
Greetings
Picked up from an OP shop recently an Aura Evolution VA100 II.
the unit looked like it had been through Hell and back and it was missing both the 'Input' and 'Volume' knobs. Had no reason to expect the amp to work either so I bought for $60 NZ Dollars. The vendor was kind enough to give me my money back if the amp was a non runner. Can't be fairer than that aye!
Took it home and started to cleaning / dismantling process (as one does) after powering it up and finding only the Left Channel working.... At this point, the Protection Relay was working too. dismantling and and looking at the copper side of the PCB revealed
that some one had soldered wires on the Protection Relay output poles, thus defeating it.
The Protection Relay was at fault (Left channel pole was not switching) which is why that was done. Have since replaced the original Protection Relay with a near equivalent which it now operates as it should on BOTH poles. It also turned turned out that the Head Phone PCB had a blown line resister for the Left Channel too. Both Protection Relay and that resister
replaced... Had BOTH my channels back.
The Engineers at B & W created a very smart solution to switching between Head Phones
to Main Speakers. The Protection Relay acts as that switch the moment the Head Phone plug
is inserted.
Here is my problem now. When you power up the amp, the Protection Relay doesn't always switch. When you de-power, then power up again, the Protection Relay may trigger. This night take a few goes at powering up before it triggers. once it has, it operates perfectly (plugging is the Head Phones then taking them out again for the Main Speakers to operate. If one de-powers the amp after that then immediately re-powers again.... it's 'hit' or 'miss' as whether the Protection Relay will trigger again.
When this amp goes, it literally blows my Musical Fidelity A200 (Class A) out the door. It's that good.
B & W really made a beautifully sounding, very musical with incredible BASS too. It really makes
my Castle Inversion 50's really come alive.
Is there any kind soul out there that could point me in the right direction to remedy this.
I'm no Electronics Expert... Just know enough to be dangerous
I'm sure I could repair it if I knew what component within the Protection Relay circuit to
interrogate.