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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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HTPC incorporating Leach LOW TIM amp. I'll post more as things progress if anyone's interested, thanks.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Wow! details?
Jan Didden
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/Another new issue: Linear Audio Volume 3! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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What a tease! Of course we want more info!
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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so nice, more info please....
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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My goal is to incorporate a PC into an amplifier for the purpose of managing music playback. I did not want amplified speakers. The Leach amp design appealed to me because the instructions are well documented and I like the sound of transistor amps. I'll admit I have limited electronics experience, as I demonstrated in my first post, but I like to learn new things.
I decided to build the exterior of the case from wood because I love wood working and the cost, for me, would be low compared to metal (I always stop to look at antique radios, some of the case work is fantastic). I designed with ventilation in mind, because of the PC components, and wanted to stay within typical amplifier dimensions. I struggled with layout for a couple weeks trying to balance proper component placement, weight distribution and aesthetics. Another new thing for me was working with Plexiglas As the layout came together it became advantageous to have the chassis completely removable in order to have easy access to the electrical. Allot of "PC moders" use Plexiglas for decoration but it is also very strong and easy to cut and glue. The first go-around I made the mistake of using epoxy for plastics. After three days the joints got brittle and it fell apart. Methylene chloride is glue of choice because it bonds by melting the joints together and hardens very fast. I noticed that Plexiglas can build up static charge. Sanding the surface eliminates this problem and makes a good surface for spray painting. I have no explanation for the hatch in the top. Seemed like the thing to have if you like to fiddle. The front view in the previous post shows the drive bays. One DVD/CD burner, two hot swap SATA drives and one USB/Memory card port. The amp heat sinks mount on the left and right side of the drive bay and are recessed flush with the same. It gives it a funky look but front mounted heat sinks were the best fit in terms of layout. I still have to mount the main board (micro ATX) and do the final wiring. This pic shows chassis out of the case ready for wiring. Thanks for your interest, it's nice to have a forum to chat about this sort of thing. More posts as Frankenstein progresses. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Quote:
Shawn. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: K-town
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Maybe you could line the inside with a fine mesh metal screen for shielding?
just a quick thought
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All the trouble I've ever been in started out as fun...... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Some pics with power supplies installed before wiring things up. Cut access for micro ATX board and painted front panel.
Checked into shielding and should not be required because the mother board is grounded through the PSU. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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And the other pic that did not attach -
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Californie
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Pardon my intrusion, but I've built a few thousand computers myself and I could not help but notice that you might be using the wrong PC power supply ... For an audio oriented PC, I always recommend getting the largest, highest watt PC power supply you can find, and if you can get one of those "special" audio/PC supplies = better yet.
(Having a power supply about twice as heavy duty as you think you need is good, more is better. If you think you need 200 watts for the PC, get a 450 or 500 watt supply. The basic reason is that a 200 watt cpu, motherboard & drives will be loading the last filter stage of the PC supply to within 80% of its maximum and the capacitors will let a lot of noise through to your analog audio equipment by way of the cabling & radiation. ... with a 500 watt supply the PC supply caps are "only" stretched out to ~40% of power rating = better filtration of switching supply noise, etc.) Good luck |
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