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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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This is a four-channel amp I'm fixing for a buddy. One channel has no positive swing on the output. The bases of all the output devices have about -0.220V on them.
The dual FET at the input is a µPA68HA. The drain of 'FET #1' on the bad channel has 5.1V on it, the good channel has 8.05V. Q6 has 6.9V on the emitter (the good channel has 7.3V here), and thus the B-E junction is reverse biased. No current flows through R16 (on the collector of Q6) or through R18 (on the emitter of Q6). Current IS flowing through Q7 and R17 and R19. I didn't mark it on the drawing, but the regulator formed by DZ2/Q4 is working and outputting about -11V. I've stolen the FET from a working channel with no positive results, as well as swapped Q1, Q2, Q5 and Q6. Anyone have any ideas on what I'm missing? (caution...big pic!) Good voltages shown in black, and match the good channels, bad voltages shown in red)
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Manila
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Voltages would have turned off Q6. Input FET must be turned on pretty hard to pull the voltage at its drain to 5.1
What't the voltage at the feedback resistor to ground? Is the amp's quiescent output 0V? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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Amp output is sitting at about -30mV. I can force it further negative with the offset pot, but -30mV is about as positive as it will go with the current issues.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Manila
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Makes sense. Input pair is working to pull the offset to zero, but can't.
Check Q9 collector voltage, followed by base voltages of Q12 and Q14. Q14 base should be near 1.4V, Q12 base near 2.1; therefore Q9 collector perhaps a bit higher than that i.e 2.5? One of those voltages has to be off to get your output transistor to be biased off, causing the negative offset... Cheers |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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very hard to read, poor image quality of schematic. Q9 should be on hard. Check Q9's emitter resistor voltage drop (120 ohm). After the collector of Q9 there's a 390 ohm resistor feeding pre-drivers' Check that and those clamping transistors that shunt the signal to the ouput line. (Q1/Q3). If Q1 isn't shorted, check Q16's emitter resistor for open. If it's open, it'll always turn on that voltage clamp (Q1)
__________________
".........These go to eleven" |
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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Quote:
Quote:
The clamping/limiter transistors (Q1~Q4) were removed from the board early on to make sure they weren't screwing things up. Forgot to mention that. R33 is the 1K shared emitter resistor for Q12/Q13. Measures fine. R34 is the 150 ohm shared emitter resistor for Q14/Q15. Also looks good. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Manila
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Try checking the voltages on Q7 then. With Q6 off, Q7 should be pulling hard on Q9, but if there's no emitter current on Q9 then maybe Q9 is shorted (i.e. b - e) or Q7 isn't doing its job...
Cheers! oops - that should be "Q9 is open" (b to e)... :-) |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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Q7 IS on, but Q9 wasn't doing anything.
I tested Q9 earlier, and it measured OK, but I just now replaced it anyway, and it looks like that might have fixed the whole thing (I haven't passed a signal yet, but I'm getting current flow in the proper places now). I got fooled into thinking that because a transistor works in the tester that it MUST be good. I know better... I'll report back once I see it pass a signal. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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Looks like that took care of it. Running fine.
I'm not completely impressed with the build quality, but I gotta admit, it DOES crank out the watts...in 2-channel mode into an 8 ohm load, I just measured output at 540WPC at clipping. Appreciate your help guys! Thanks! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Manila
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That is SOME power! Great work!
Cheers |
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