Hi palesha,
The advice you have been given is the correct advice. I agree 100%
Physics. The voice coil can only get rid of so much heat, no matter what you want to believe they are rated for in power. I have personally seen many pro loudspeakers burned out due to excessive power. They will only take so much.
-Chris
The advice you have been given is the correct advice. I agree 100%
Physics. The voice coil can only get rid of so much heat, no matter what you want to believe they are rated for in power. I have personally seen many pro loudspeakers burned out due to excessive power. They will only take so much.
-Chris
Hi palesha,
Good thought, but it will not help if the amplifier is not driven into clipping. Also, if you are opening speaker relay contacts, they will burn under load.
An over easy compressor may help the situation. That will limit the levels going to the amplifier. Of course, if your friend turns it up - poof!
-Chris
Good thought, but it will not help if the amplifier is not driven into clipping. Also, if you are opening speaker relay contacts, they will burn under load.
An over easy compressor may help the situation. That will limit the levels going to the amplifier. Of course, if your friend turns it up - poof!
-Chris
I am thinking to put following solution to protect the woofer.
1. Put slow blow fuse in series of the amplifier & put halogen bulb in parallel to it. When fuse will blow current will pass through bulb & will glow. hence woofer will be saved & volume will be reduced as indication of overload.
2) I hv got PTC for tweeter protection. If i put two PTC in parallel in series between amplifier & woofer , will it be ok? The current capacity of two PTC ( adding ) is exactly matching the output of the amp without clipping. I will add halogen bulb parallel to PTC. This way we will get reduced sound when PTC is tripped.
1. Put slow blow fuse in series of the amplifier & put halogen bulb in parallel to it. When fuse will blow current will pass through bulb & will glow. hence woofer will be saved & volume will be reduced as indication of overload.
2) I hv got PTC for tweeter protection. If i put two PTC in parallel in series between amplifier & woofer , will it be ok? The current capacity of two PTC ( adding ) is exactly matching the output of the amp without clipping. I will add halogen bulb parallel to PTC. This way we will get reduced sound when PTC is tripped.
Thanks Andrew T
u mean only put halogen bulb?
The amplifier for woofer-midbass is 150W@1% distortion. I was thinking of putting 5A fast blow as u hv suggested & put 50W halogen across it. This way he will get full power till the time he plays normally. If the fuse is blown then the power will go throu halogen. It will glow & reduce the power to the woofer. I want to let my friend know about clipping when he will see halogen bulb glow.
Or
should i only put Halogen bulb as u suggested? Then will not reduce the power initially?
Kindly comment.
u mean only put halogen bulb?
The amplifier for woofer-midbass is 150W@1% distortion. I was thinking of putting 5A fast blow as u hv suggested & put 50W halogen across it. This way he will get full power till the time he plays normally. If the fuse is blown then the power will go throu halogen. It will glow & reduce the power to the woofer. I want to let my friend know about clipping when he will see halogen bulb glow.
Or
should i only put Halogen bulb as u suggested? Then will not reduce the power initially?
Kindly comment.
Hi,
I have not measured a high wattage halogen but it's cold resistance will be pretty low, probably only a few tenths of an ohm (150W 12V, hot resistance=0r96, 100W hot=1r4, 50W hot=2r9). This will allow quite high currents to flow with very little power loss.
As the speakers get driven harder the bulb starts to warm and the resistance rises, causing more heating and yet more resistance rise. It starts to glow and protects the speaker from the stupidity that has happened previously. If the bulb gets overdriven then it will fuse (blow)
I have not measured a high wattage halogen but it's cold resistance will be pretty low, probably only a few tenths of an ohm (150W 12V, hot resistance=0r96, 100W hot=1r4, 50W hot=2r9). This will allow quite high currents to flow with very little power loss.
As the speakers get driven harder the bulb starts to warm and the resistance rises, causing more heating and yet more resistance rise. It starts to glow and protects the speaker from the stupidity that has happened previously. If the bulb gets overdriven then it will fuse (blow)
This is logic here. Eva is experienced and know exactly what will happen. A good limiter is adjustable as mentioned. The person needing the limiter ro avoid damaging components will null the adjustments on the limiter because as stated will feel the system
has lost some punch and power. The only logical solution is going to be one of two. Either turn down the volume or purchase better equipment.
i went to electrical shop & checked halogen bulb( Germany made ) of 150W. The cold DC resistance was just .2 ohms. For 50W ( Chinese made) was .4 ohms. I bought two chinese bulbs of 50W each just to test as the german was very expensive. The 50W bulb start getting glow with just 12W sinewave power input. At 25W the glow was quite powerful. Then i paralleled two bulbs & result was just doubled.
With this i think 150W bulb will get glowing from 35W input only.
All this to save woofer because it is plastic cabinet active speaker with plate Class H 170W amplifier & i can't replace the plate amp.
With this i think 150W bulb will get glowing from 35W input only.
All this to save woofer because it is plastic cabinet active speaker with plate Class H 170W amplifier & i can't replace the plate amp.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.