Luke said:
AndrewT said:
Hi,
I'll second AT on this.
For British kit the Cyrus2/PSX is one the best second-hand buys.
Around its price second-hand its probably the best british kit.
I wish sometimes I'd sought it out instead of getting my Audiolab 8000A.
As far as I know the circiut boards for the Cyrus 1 and 2 are identical.
I think the 2 has two pairs of output devices whilst the 1 has one pair.
Also omitted from the 1 is an IC and bits for the MC stage, instead
it has two gain settings for the MM stage. The Cyrus 1 board also
has all the connections for a PSX but not the socket.
So a Cyrus 1 would be fairly easy to upgrade with a DIY PSX.
The Cyrus 1 itself does sound good, very lively but does lack a little weight.
/sreten.Hi,
replacements for C8834. I think the C is short for 2sc but the following number is too large for a valid reference. The Japanese have only reached about 5000 odd.
So maybe not 2sc.
Ignore this bit,The 243, 253 are likely to be BD243, BD253, European origin drivers. But the complement to bd243 is bd244, these are 80V 65W 6A devices. The C rated are 100V. So again I am unsure about the 253.
Richie is almost certainly right about the MJE243, MJE253. makes a lot more sense.
replacements for C8834. I think the C is short for 2sc but the following number is too large for a valid reference. The Japanese have only reached about 5000 odd.
So maybe not 2sc.
Ignore this bit,The 243, 253 are likely to be BD243, BD253, European origin drivers. But the complement to bd243 is bd244, these are 80V 65W 6A devices. The C rated are 100V. So again I am unsure about the 253.
Richie is almost certainly right about the MJE243, MJE253. makes a lot more sense.
British Champion
I really can't agree more, that the Cyrus 2 is a superb amp. I have always been playing with tube gear right from the 60's and have absolutely put aside anything transistor. All my stuff are from the vintage era.. ala... Jbl horns, Altecs, Goodmans red magnets, Tannoy Gold etc.... I was given a set of C2 with the DC power pack from a friend. Its is from the year 1988 I took it to a tech and had it serviced, changed all the caps and cleaned out the contacts. I hooked it up to a pair of vintage Altec 414a co-axle 12" speakers and got the shock of my life. The mids were excellent and the linearity, a little colder than tube had its own bounce and musicality. Coupled with the DC power pack it sounded much better, quieter and stable. The output transistors have packed up and so did one of the driver transistors. I have since grown to love this baby and is trying to restore her back to good health.
I joined today just so I could get help and opinions and I must confess you guys have been terrific, helpful and enthusiastic. Since this, the Cyrus 2 pages have grown by 2.
Thanks guys,
Henry
I really can't agree more, that the Cyrus 2 is a superb amp. I have always been playing with tube gear right from the 60's and have absolutely put aside anything transistor. All my stuff are from the vintage era.. ala... Jbl horns, Altecs, Goodmans red magnets, Tannoy Gold etc.... I was given a set of C2 with the DC power pack from a friend. Its is from the year 1988 I took it to a tech and had it serviced, changed all the caps and cleaned out the contacts. I hooked it up to a pair of vintage Altec 414a co-axle 12" speakers and got the shock of my life. The mids were excellent and the linearity, a little colder than tube had its own bounce and musicality. Coupled with the DC power pack it sounded much better, quieter and stable. The output transistors have packed up and so did one of the driver transistors. I have since grown to love this baby and is trying to restore her back to good health.
I joined today just so I could get help and opinions and I must confess you guys have been terrific, helpful and enthusiastic. Since this, the Cyrus 2 pages have grown by 2.
Thanks guys,
Henry
Wow, the thread went crazy as I zzzz overnight.
Replace the filter caps on the LV supply, 470 uF 63V are what I use, also replace the 10 uF caps. I use 35V, there are 4 to change. Refit the heatsinks to the regulators so they are snug, use a touch of grease. That's the last thing you do.
The MJE devices are available, use them. I use TIP35C for the outputs, not the cheap TI things! You should work on the PCB while leaving the heatsink attached to the outputs.
Check the feedback caps, I see a few opening up.
These are nice amps. The Cyrus Power (newest amp) is really nice. Unlike many British designs, the schematic is very advanced and it sounds it. These guys know what they are doing. The later build quality (new models) is very high. Failure rates are very low.
So as much as the Cyrus 2 sounds nice, you should have a listen to the latest products they produce.
-Chris
Replace the filter caps on the LV supply, 470 uF 63V are what I use, also replace the 10 uF caps. I use 35V, there are 4 to change. Refit the heatsinks to the regulators so they are snug, use a touch of grease. That's the last thing you do.
The MJE devices are available, use them. I use TIP35C for the outputs, not the cheap TI things! You should work on the PCB while leaving the heatsink attached to the outputs.
Check the feedback caps, I see a few opening up.
These are nice amps. The Cyrus Power (newest amp) is really nice. Unlike many British designs, the schematic is very advanced and it sounds it. These guys know what they are doing. The later build quality (new models) is very high. Failure rates are very low.
So as much as the Cyrus 2 sounds nice, you should have a listen to the latest products they produce.
-Chris
Hi richie00boy,
The 25A rating on the TIP35C part may be an advantage.
The MJW0281A may be the best sounding part for this amp. I haven't played with the MJW3281 yet. Either way, Cyrus seemed to be going for a high current part.
I agree that you really want a part rated over 80V, and there is very little difference in price between the B and C. It's an inexpensive part to begin with. Why even consider the 80V part??
-Chris
The 25A rating on the TIP35C part may be an advantage.
The MJW0281A may be the best sounding part for this amp. I haven't played with the MJW3281 yet. Either way, Cyrus seemed to be going for a high current part.
I agree that you really want a part rated over 80V, and there is very little difference in price between the B and C. It's an inexpensive part to begin with. Why even consider the 80V part??
-Chris
Hi richie00boy,
When doing outputs, I will typically totally clean the area and give the block a sand with 600 grit wet/dry paper. New grease for everything. It's hard to justify the time to someone if the output stage is not blown. I'm tired of arguing the point.
-Chris
Nope. I am lazy. Unless I'm replacing outputs, the bar stays on. But then, I work on quite a few and I find repairing other faults more efficient this way. I do support the heatsink assy.
When doing outputs, I will typically totally clean the area and give the block a sand with 600 grit wet/dry paper. New grease for everything. It's hard to justify the time to someone if the output stage is not blown. I'm tired of arguing the point.
-Chris
Hi Andrew,
Well, we were a colony you know! The Queen is still regarded as, well, our Queen. What can I say??
I have toured the Cyrus factory, met the principles and engineers as well as some service staff. I am impressed with the people, the company and their engineering. I would recommend a listen to these without hesitation. Of course, not for everyone. A well made product to be sure.
Andrew, have you had a chance to check out their newer stuff?
-Chris
Edit: Cyrus recently "bought themselves" back from the Mission group.
Well, we were a colony you know!
The Queen is still regarded as, well, our Queen. What can I say??I have toured the Cyrus factory, met the principles and engineers as well as some service staff. I am impressed with the people, the company and their engineering. I would recommend a listen to these without hesitation. Of course, not for everyone. A well made product to be sure.
Andrew, have you had a chance to check out their newer stuff?
-Chris
Edit: Cyrus recently "bought themselves" back from the Mission group.
anatech said:Hi richie00boy,
Nope. I am lazy. Unless I'm replacing outputs, the bar stays on. But then, I work on quite a few and I find repairing other faults more efficient this way. I do support the heatsink assy.
When doing outputs, I will typically totally clean the area and give the block a sand with 600 grit wet/dry paper. New grease for everything. It's hard to justify the time to someone if the output stage is not blown. I'm tired of arguing the point.
-Chris
Interesting, I could see no way of getting to the underside of the PCB without undoing the bar leading to flipping the PCB. The bottom and heatsink are all one casting. This is the Cyrus 2 circa 1990 we are on about?
Or are you saying you bend the legs of the output devices?
Hi richie00boy,
Oops! Wrong model then. In that case you are correct and on those you do dismount the outputs and flip. I see more of the plastic covered models with the heatsink bar stock.
Those are not that bad to clean up.
The new models use that one use pad stuff. They are a pain because you need more of that pad material. If it sticks in the wrong spot, the new pad is ruined already! I am perfectly happy with mica and grease.
-Chris
Oops! Wrong model then. In that case you are correct and on those you do dismount the outputs and flip. I see more of the plastic covered models with the heatsink bar stock.
I would never do that. Now there is an invitation to replacing a set of transistors!
Those are not that bad to clean up.
The new models use that one use pad stuff. They are a pain because you need more of that pad material. If it sticks in the wrong spot, the new pad is ruined already! I am perfectly happy with mica and grease.
-Chris
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