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#11 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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That should be an easy fix.
The sound of the Cyrus 2 is good, the nice punchy bass is the best aspect. The sound can be a little on the bright side but if you like a detailed sound it's good. The Cyrus 1 and Cyrus 2 are very similar indeed. I repaired a friends Cyrus 2 a while ago and bought the service manual from Cyrus, not that cheap and not a brilliant document either
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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thanks so much for the help
So I unsolder the capacitor, Go to maplins and ask for one with these specs 470µF / 63V Resolder ( will the polarity be marked on the circuit board ). You mentioned checking the voltage after soldering Is there any particular voltage i should be reading . sorry Its been years since i looked at a circuit and kinda lost I'll see if i can get the capacitors today one spare incase the other goes and i need a voltage meter also. Am just concerned about getting the polarity right , is there a sure fire way of knowing if i dont see any markings. thanks |
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#13 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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Make sure Maplin's sell you a cap with the same pin pitch.
I think there is a + sign on the silk screen, but it's possible there isn't. If you remove the cap then post up on here which number it is on the board (e.g. C102) then I can look at my manual and see where it is in the circuit and tell you which way round it needs to go. But please don't bother me if there is a + on the silk screen as I will have to move a load of stuff to get to the manual
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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thanks for your comments, I have bid for used Cyrus ones, but they fetch around 300 dollars used here (around 100 pound). Will wait for a bargain:-)
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: UK
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Quote:
I would sugest that you replace both C64 and C63. Ideally you should use some new insulation pads for the output transistors when you reassemble the amp unless you leave them connected to the heatsink and remove the heatsink along with the pcb. If you choose the latter option take care not to put any strain on the output transistor legs or solder pads. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Does anyone know the replacement Power transistors for a 1988 cyrus 2? Are there any other replacement Nos. available for this? My C2 is rated 150watts say a label on the casing. Any help would be appreciated.
The Nos> on the power transistor on my set is C8834 and the Driver ones are 243 and 253. The tech at Cyrus UK has not heard of power transistor C8834.. thanks & kind regards to all. Henry:
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qrius4ever |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: UK
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Quote:
The C8834 marking is probably the year (88) and week/batch (38) when the power transistors were manufactured. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Norwich, UK
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I find it odd that both Cyrus 1 and 2 have switching transistors for outputs. Arent these supposed to be non-linear?
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Thanks Geoff,
Much appreciated... yes its the metal casing version and heavy too. Henry
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qrius4ever |
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#20 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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The early Cyrus 2 has two TO220 devices per rail, inhouse marked as PT7. The later Cyrus 2 has one TO247 device per rail, inhouse marked as PT77.
The drivers in both cases are MJE devices. I replaced them with MFE340/MJE350 without issue. Cyrus want a silly price for new output devices. I would use TIP41C (or B if you're brave) for the TO220 devices, and TIP35C (or B if you're brave) for the TO247 as an easy substitute.
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