Krell KSA 100mkII Clone - Page 49

Mark A. Gulbrandsen · 20th October 2006, 10:16 PM

Top....

Mark A. Gulbrandsen · 20th October 2006, 10:18 PM

Bottom.... I had just three sets made up. If anyone involved in this project would like to see the full size shots please e-mail me... but you have to be signed up on the board WIKI to buy some in order to receive the shots full size!! I am sending one proto pair to Flodstroem and one pair to PWatts. That way all three of us can build one up and give feedback.

So far the only feedback is that the nemes are reversed... I hope the whole board is not reversed....

Mark

Flodstroem · 20th October 2006, 10:45 PM

Quote:

So far the only feedback is that the nemes are reversed... I hope the whole board is not reversed....

I compared the silk screen (last posted picture of it) to the Top side picture and it is right what I can see.

Regards

PWatts · 20th October 2006, 11:21 PM

Whoops Mark you are correct

- The initial idea was for that part to be on the top layer and I sent it to the bottom at the last minute without reversing it.. the other "All rights reserved" part has been there longer and have been correctly flipped as one can see on the pics. All the rest is correct so no fears.

Since I'm fairly sure there'll have to be some changes made before the group buy anyway it's an easy fix. Besides that everything looks OK-ish as on the Gerbers, and the through-hole plating will make it easy to build despite the Spartan look.

I'll start building mine ASA I get my boards, which should be in around 3 weeks (I guess Mark's will be finished by then)

Mark A. Gulbrandsen · 21st October 2006, 01:42 AM

So far so good. A few tihngs simple things I found along the way.

We need to rotate C7 down so it's below the driver heatsink. The way it is now it'll have to be mounted on the back side of the board. Same for the bias pot... We shouldn't have anything above the leads of the driver transistors. I can mill out the heatsink for now though to fit the pot in.

R-37 Silkscreen has been left off. Is right below Q-17.

Can't find J-1 & 2 but J-3, 4 , and 5 are apparent.

Area around C-2,3,4 is pretty tight.

Other than these few things thats about it. Things went together just dandy!

Now on to the Semi's... Hopefully I have enough of them!

Mark

Mark A. Gulbrandsen · 21st October 2006, 03:39 AM

All semi's in place and correct as far as I can tell..traced it all out.

Mark A. Gulbrandsen · 21st October 2006, 03:41 AM

I have two of these heat sinks that I will machine tommrrow morning to fit correctly. I will probably also machine one side of it completely flat as close to the original as I can get it.

Note that I spaced the drivers and bias device up the thickness of two US pennies to account for the heatsink thickness.

Mark

jleaman · 21st October 2006, 03:58 AM

I think you should tell me where you got all them blue resistors. Last time i had some was when my dad gave some to me. He got them from hi end radio/ phone communication equipment..

expensive resistors too.!

PWatts · 21st October 2006, 08:02 AM

Looking good, and progressing fast!

A few notes on Mark's comments:

1) R16, R36 and R37 shouldn't have a silkscreen since it's mounted on the bottom. I had to do it due to space issues. R37 can be mounted on the top (so I'll just flip it back up), but I wanted to keep the area clear for people using "foldback"-type heatsinks for the predrivers.

2) J1 and J2 aren't jumpers, they're the input terminals at the bottom. "J" is the reference designator symbol commonly used for all terminals and connectors on PCB's. Since they've got the description next to them on the silkscreen there shouldn't be confusion though.

3) I initally placed C7 and VR2 according to the original Mk2's heatsink, which only started halfway up on the transistors' casings. Because you're going to mount the heatsink on the full case, I'll indeed have to shift them down a bit. Only problem is that it will occupy the clearing I left for the predrivers' heatsinks. Otherwise I can put C7 on the bottom, but it will prevent large exotic caps or otherwise the board will need higher standoffs. Feedback?

4) About the C2,3,4 area... well there's not much to say about it. Any change to it will ripple out to the rest of the board. Same ss with C7, those who want to can put C4 at the bottom. C2 and C3 are the same size as on Al's boards. I also included a blank pad to allow a single bipolar cap at 45degrees angle.

Mark A. Gulbrandsen · 21st October 2006, 08:57 AM

Quote:

I think you should tell me where you got all them blue resistors. Last time i had some was when my dad gave some to me. He got them from hi end radio/ phone communication equipment..

Remember that I only pay 5 cents a resistor... from the magic surplus store here in SLC.....

Mark

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20th October 2006, 11:21 PM	#484
PWatts diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Bloubergstrand	Whoops Mark you are correct - The initial idea was for that part to be on the top layer and I sent it to the bottom at the last minute without reversing it.. the other "All rights reserved" part has been there longer and have been correctly flipped as one can see on the pics. All the rest is correct so no fears. Since I'm fairly sure there'll have to be some changes made before the group buy anyway it's an easy fix. Besides that everything looks OK-ish as on the Gerbers, and the through-hole plating will make it easy to build despite the Spartan look. I'll start building mine ASA I get my boards, which should be in around 3 weeks (I guess Mark's will be finished by then)

21st October 2006, 03:58 AM	#488
jleaman diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Nanaimo	I think you should tell me where you got all them blue resistors. Last time i had some was when my dad gave some to me. He got them from hi end radio/ phone communication equipment.. expensive resistors too.!

21st October 2006, 08:02 AM	#489
PWatts diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Bloubergstrand	Looking good, and progressing fast! A few notes on Mark's comments: 1) R16, R36 and R37 shouldn't have a silkscreen since it's mounted on the bottom. I had to do it due to space issues. R37 can be mounted on the top (so I'll just flip it back up), but I wanted to keep the area clear for people using "foldback"-type heatsinks for the predrivers. 2) J1 and J2 aren't jumpers, they're the input terminals at the bottom. "J" is the reference designator symbol commonly used for all terminals and connectors on PCB's. Since they've got the description next to them on the silkscreen there shouldn't be confusion though. 3) I initally placed C7 and VR2 according to the original Mk2's heatsink, which only started halfway up on the transistors' casings. Because you're going to mount the heatsink on the full case, I'll indeed have to shift them down a bit. Only problem is that it will occupy the clearing I left for the predrivers' heatsinks. Otherwise I can put C7 on the bottom, but it will prevent large exotic caps or otherwise the board will need higher standoffs. Feedback? 4) About the C2,3,4 area... well there's not much to say about it. Any change to it will ripple out to the rest of the board. Same ss with C7, those who want to can put C4 at the bottom. C2 and C3 are the same size as on Al's boards. I also included a blank pad to allow a single bipolar cap at 45degrees angle.

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