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#1201 |
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diyAudio Member
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In case anyone scratches the silkscreen of his boards or damages it in any other way at a later stage :
Both board and silkscreen are usually epoxy resin based. Sometimes the silkscreen has a polyurethane base, basically the only other stuff that has a good holding grip on epoxy resin materials. Both epoxy resin and polyurethane can be given a preferred color by adding the appropriate pigment. Scratches and bruises can be touched up with a disposable brush. After the curing time, the touch-up can be polished to look invisible.
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Looks like Sponge Bob has killed another thread. |
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#1202 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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It has been said already and I don't want to be redundant but the boards are fantastic! No scratches or scuffs on these ones.
I tip my hat toward you folks who put it together and the DIY forum in general as a wonderful place for all things audio. Now if only my schedule would allow me to get back to finishing the KSA50 then I could get on to it's big brother. I guess I can start sourcing the parts. Shawn. |
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#1203 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Belgium
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Still no boards overhere
Regards |
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#1204 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
I get 190watts per channel before clipping.... that's a very hi rail for a true KSA-100... unless u are building a KSA-150... then it will be on the money... but then jack all power sections up by 50% as well and have preceeding circuitry able to handle it too... PS: Has anyone compared a finished KSA-50 to the KSA-100? I know Mark liked the 100.... anyone else do it? |
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#1205 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ontario
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Has there been any recommendations regarding heatsinks for this project?
I have read some of the discussions, but I am not sure if there has been a consensus reached. I am most interested in passive heatsinks. Is there a spec on thermal transfer rate that I could use as a guideline when shopping for sinks? I come across some copper heatsinks may prove interesting for the project. thanks, Paul
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Ride hard, shoot straight and tell the truth |
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#1206 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Salt Lake City
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Something along the lines of what was used for the KMA-160 would work well. That is what I am going to be using on my monoblocks. 4 sinks per amp. They are available through M&M Metals.....
Mark
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KSA-100 WIKI |
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#1207 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi Kamps,
Quote:
Quote:
Since the output (3pair on each driver pair) conveniently groups into 6pairs or 4triplets you can buy either 4 off 0.2 to 0.32C/W or 6 off 0.3 to 0.48C/W
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regards Andrew T. |
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#1208 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ontario
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Mark, Andrew:
Thanks for the clarification. Paul
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Ride hard, shoot straight and tell the truth |
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#1209 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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I forgot to mention that each manufacturer rates their sinks at a fixed temperature difference above ambient.
As the working temperature moves towards ambient (deltaT<70Cdeg) the C/W drops off. Most manufacturers quote the deltaT and how to correct Rth s-a for lower/higher values. The Krell 100 Klone dissipation will be about 270W on +-52Vdc supply rails. Heatsink temperature~=270*(0.05 or 0.08) = 14Cdeg to 22Cdeg+ambient (30degC to 40degC). These deltaT values (14 to 22) are very much below 70Cdeg with the result that a specified 0.05C/W will run much hotter than predicted if the de-rating is ignored.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#1210 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
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