SR606 servicing
If you have any problems with these amplifiers Ii can help I was the product manager and service manager for C-Audio. Circuit diagrams are available for al models of C- Audio products as well as service documentation and first hand guidance.
many thanks
Lee
BTY:
in the first versions of the SR rnge the soft start resistor was a 10R 50W however when the soft start card changed to use smaller relays the resistor went to a 47R 50W. if you have a soft start card with 5 relays on it then you must use a 47R resistor along with an F1.6A fuse (IxIxt raating of 6.2) a lower vlaue fuse will always fail and a higher rating fuse is a nail and will cause the soft start resistor to fail.
If you have any problems with these amplifiers Ii can help I was the product manager and service manager for C-Audio. Circuit diagrams are available for al models of C- Audio products as well as service documentation and first hand guidance.
many thanks
Lee
BTY:
in the first versions of the SR rnge the soft start resistor was a 10R 50W however when the soft start card changed to use smaller relays the resistor went to a 47R 50W. if you have a soft start card with 5 relays on it then you must use a 47R resistor along with an F1.6A fuse (IxIxt raating of 6.2) a lower vlaue fuse will always fail and a higher rating fuse is a nail and will cause the soft start resistor to fail.
Sr606
to lee.basham or somebody who can help:
I tried to repair SR 606 and there were blown driver transistor in positive supply and two output mosfets 2sk135 and some zener diodes... I replaced driver transistor and zeners, and disconected bad output mosfets. (I havent spare ones). When output stage is disconected all looks ok... when output is connected negative supply mosfets 2sj50 leak current about 25mA each, all 8pcs about 0,2 Apms together even if gate is shorted to ground. is this sign of some typical mosfet damage?
thanks
to lee.basham or somebody who can help:
I tried to repair SR 606 and there were blown driver transistor in positive supply and two output mosfets 2sk135 and some zener diodes... I replaced driver transistor and zeners, and disconected bad output mosfets. (I havent spare ones). When output stage is disconected all looks ok... when output is connected negative supply mosfets 2sj50 leak current about 25mA each, all 8pcs about 0,2 Apms together even if gate is shorted to ground. is this sign of some typical mosfet damage?
thanks
Hi,
lee.basham
I my two 606 it is 47 Ohm resistor and three rely, so I change them to 47Ohm.
I also connect both pole of the rely as I suspect it can sometimes be a bad connection.
The two 606 has been in working condition for a couple of weeks.
I have two more to repair it is exactly the same problem the 47 Ohm resistors has blown.
In one if the first two it was a rectifier that was shorted, so the famous 47ohm resistor was blown.
Regards
Kamskoma
lee.basham
I my two 606 it is 47 Ohm resistor and three rely, so I change them to 47Ohm.
I also connect both pole of the rely as I suspect it can sometimes be a bad connection.
The two 606 has been in working condition for a couple of weeks.
I have two more to repair it is exactly the same problem the 47 Ohm resistors has blown.
In one if the first two it was a rectifier that was shorted, so the famous 47ohm resistor was blown.
Regards
Kamskoma
SR series soft start (early version)
So far it seems everyone has an early version of the SR amplifier with the early soft start card (3 big relays). this was found to be unreliable due to relay problems etc the later vesion has 5 smaller, 24v relays.
we also found that the soft start resistor (50W) could short to the body and thus to ground [big loud bang]. The later versions of the soft start card have a ceramic 23W resistor fitted on the pcb (although a 17W is suficient) with a F1.6A fuse these are very reliable. the fuse will fail for any major fault and thus fully protect the soft start resistor, the only time this does not happen is when the customer sticks a bigger fuse in (an F2A won't blow)
By the way if anyone is inside an SR amplifier i would recommend that R24, R34 and R50 on each driver pcb are replaced with 27k 1W [PRO1 versions] failure to do this will inevitably lead to a dead amp; these resistors are 1/2 watt in older amps and have a nasty habit of going oout of tolerance especialy usualy just after you have been paid for the repair and the customer is on the first gig,
you have been warned.
circuis are available FOC.
Lee
So far it seems everyone has an early version of the SR amplifier with the early soft start card (3 big relays). this was found to be unreliable due to relay problems etc the later vesion has 5 smaller, 24v relays.
we also found that the soft start resistor (50W) could short to the body and thus to ground [big loud bang]. The later versions of the soft start card have a ceramic 23W resistor fitted on the pcb (although a 17W is suficient) with a F1.6A fuse these are very reliable. the fuse will fail for any major fault and thus fully protect the soft start resistor, the only time this does not happen is when the customer sticks a bigger fuse in (an F2A won't blow)
By the way if anyone is inside an SR amplifier i would recommend that R24, R34 and R50 on each driver pcb are replaced with 27k 1W [PRO1 versions] failure to do this will inevitably lead to a dead amp; these resistors are 1/2 watt in older amps and have a nasty habit of going oout of tolerance especialy usualy just after you have been paid for the repair and the customer is on the first gig,
you have been warned.
circuis are available FOC.
Lee
What are the symptoms of the fault on your 2x1100. do you have a email if so send me a mail on
lee.basham@lj-electronics.com
lee
lee.basham@lj-electronics.com
lee
Hi, this forum/thread came up on google.
I bought a used (rather battered) C audio 606 about a year ago and it worked fine when i tried it, but I just dug it out of the garage for a quick blast and one channel sounds awful. Its down on power and sounds very distorted. I have some knowledge of electronics but I'm a bit lost as to where to look in this thing, especially without a schematic (hint hint lol) , but i thought it was worth an ask to see if someone else had had this problem with this model of amp.
I bought it for the occasional party etc as i got fleeced every time i went and rented some gear, I thought hey i'll just get some old clunker stuff and keep it for when i need it.
Any help greatly appreciated
I bought a used (rather battered) C audio 606 about a year ago and it worked fine when i tried it, but I just dug it out of the garage for a quick blast and one channel sounds awful. Its down on power and sounds very distorted. I have some knowledge of electronics but I'm a bit lost as to where to look in this thing, especially without a schematic (hint hint lol) , but i thought it was worth an ask to see if someone else had had this problem with this model of amp.
I bought it for the occasional party etc as i got fleeced every time i went and rented some gear, I thought hey i'll just get some old clunker stuff and keep it for when i need it.
Any help greatly appreciated
Doh! sorry, this amp has got worse now.
the distorted / crackling channel is now cutting out but does come back on and sounds ok if I tap around the place with a screwdriver handle. I'm wondering if it's dirty relay or something.
The other channel was working earlier today but now has no sound, and whenever I turn the volume knob , the speaker cone moves back or forward as if the amp is throwing DC out of the speaker output, and is bringing the protection in. Seems that a component has gone short maybe? Do you know of any favorite problem bits on these?
I noticed a sticker on the side of the amp which reads 730W + 730W into 3 ohms. surely the 404 does not put out that much power? I wonder if it has been modified? It has 12 power transistors on each channel, which look original.
thanks in advance
Will
Sussex
the distorted / crackling channel is now cutting out but does come back on and sounds ok if I tap around the place with a screwdriver handle. I'm wondering if it's dirty relay or something.
The other channel was working earlier today but now has no sound, and whenever I turn the volume knob , the speaker cone moves back or forward as if the amp is throwing DC out of the speaker output, and is bringing the protection in. Seems that a component has gone short maybe? Do you know of any favorite problem bits on these?
I noticed a sticker on the side of the amp which reads 730W + 730W into 3 ohms. surely the 404 does not put out that much power? I wonder if it has been modified? It has 12 power transistors on each channel, which look original.
thanks in advance
Will
Sussex
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