Hafler dh-200 switch

[jakelm3075]

If memory serves me right. This is the switch I bought http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Accept it was a 125v switch

[BobEllis]

You can remove the capacitor without killing the amp. You may cause interference with other electronics or even a speaker damaging pop when you turn your amp off without it. You will shorten the life of the switch.

[jakelm3075]

That is a 5amp slow burn fuse right?

[BobEllis]

In that case, it probably was a resistor used to limit the current through the lamp.

go back to Chris' comments about figuring out what each connection is. You probably got them mixed up and ended up placing the switch across the mains. Was there a diagram on the back of the Radio Shack package?

I don't have your manual handy, but 5A slow blow sounds about right.

[anatech]

Hi jakelm3075,
Yes, it's a 5 A slow blow rated at at least 120VAC (not a 32V fuse!).

Different makes of switches may have their own terminal connections. This will be printed on the switch itself normally. Check the packaging. Leave the capacitor in. It protects the switch contacts as Bob pointed out.

-Chris

[jakelm3075]

Speaking if switches. Is there a right and wrong switch? If I picked up a 12v switch instead of a 125v switch or if the amps for the switch are 10amp instead of 30amp.

Knowing me I'll get home and redo the connection and blow the house up. I do not like 120 current. My wife will be sitting peicefully watching Survivor and pooof there go the lights.

[GRollins]

Several points:
--One--give up on Radio Shack. The switch you need is Mouser part# 691-LTA201TRB/125N. They're about $3-4.00 or so. Don't pay the guy on ebay who wants $15. That's silly. For a nickel and a cup full of good wishes, I'd do a group buy on Hafler switches, get 100, and sell them for $5-6. $15 is highway robbery.
--Two--do not use those switches without the spark suppressor caps. The turn-on surge creates a millisecond arc that pits the contacts. Eventually they weld. The Hafler switches were notorious for giving up. We kept a box of replacements handy back when I sold Haflers.
--Three--personally, I'd recommend going to .01uF on the suppressor cap. Stock was (I think) .005uF, and it wasn't (in my opinion) enough. Ceramic disc caps are cheap. It's worth 10 cents of insurance to make the switch happy. Of course, part of the problem was that the older version of the switch was rated for 10A. The newer version is rated for 15A.
--Four--no, all switches aren't alike. Just because it's got three connections doesn't mean that it's the same pinout as another switch with three connections.
--Five--it's not a bad idea to put a cap across any power switch that will see a high-current surge. Again, cheap insurance, no matter who makes the switch or what the current ratings are.
There may have been other points raised, but I'm up to my rump in alligators at the moment and just tried to hit the high spots.

Grey

[jakelm3075]

Well Grey, Thanks big time for the info and time. Where would I go to purchase the switch you mentioned? And I will go to a .01uF disk.

You dont have, by any chance, some switches left??

[jakelm3075]

Grey, what is your take on gain control in my situation? Running from sub preout directly to amp. Do you think I will have enough gain control? I dont like to run my gain over +1 or+2 on the reciever. I was told running gain too high on the reciever causes distorion and loss of sound quality.

Jake

[BobEllis]

Originally posted by GRollins
The switch you need is Mouser part# 691-LTA201TRB/125N. ...Grey

Be sure to use a line rated cap, like Mouser part 75-125ld50 Or a higher capacitance version as grey mentioned.

sub out to amp is normally the way things run. If you are having trouble getting the sub loud enough, you may be able to set your receiver to attenuate the mains a bit.