I just bought this integrated amp from eBay and I was wondering if anyone has the service manual for it or knows where I can get one?
Here are some links to info about the amp:
http://www.hi-fiworld.co.uk/hfw/oldeworldehtml/marantzpm94.html
http://www.retroaudio.ru/marantz/integ/PM-94.shtml
I haven't received it yet but based on the info it should be nice sounding? The guy that sold it to me said that his dad was an engineer at Marantz and helped design the amp. He had other components in the series but I just couldn't buy anything else....
Here are some links to info about the amp:
http://www.hi-fiworld.co.uk/hfw/oldeworldehtml/marantzpm94.html
http://www.retroaudio.ru/marantz/integ/PM-94.shtml
I haven't received it yet but based on the info it should be nice sounding? The guy that sold it to me said that his dad was an engineer at Marantz and helped design the amp. He had other components in the series but I just couldn't buy anything else....
The second link is something I've been looking for a long time but couldn't find. Thanks
I have Marantz CD-94 and after all those years it's still very good performer. You should like your amp too. Sorry no schematic.
Can you send me a link to Marantz seller. Maybe I could find something of interest there.
I have Marantz CD-94 and after all those years it's still very good performer. You should like your amp too. Sorry no schematic.
Can you send me a link to Marantz seller. Maybe I could find something of interest there.
Ah, those rosewood 'cheeks', quite lovely...
Sorry, no manual. But I did own this amp about 10 years ago. Quite nice. That sticker on top saying not to put anything on top is quite serious, It gets quite toasty and needs the ventilation. The amp sounds quite a bit more powerful than its power ratings would indicate.
It sounds substantially clearer through its direct input, but you give up the ability to use the tone controls, which are quite flexible, variable turnorver frequencies, etc...
A couple of sugesttions for minimally invasive 'tweeks' -
1. Replace those horrid 'links' on the back panel, that connect the pre-out to the power-in rca sockets. Although they're gold plated, they substantially muddy the sound. Buy 2 pair of 'tifffany' style rca plugs from parts express -
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...10&St3=60906009&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2483&DID=7
they're also available elsewhere under the Philmore brandname. Disassemble the plugs and just use the phallic male part with the teflon 'donut' on its end. Use the wire of your choice and solder a 1 1/2" piece between 2 of the stripped connectors to make your own links.
These 'audiophile' links are also available from Audioquest and TaraLabs for about $30/pr. The Audioquest are quite good and a lot less hassle. I've not heard the Taras.
2. Replace the power cord.
I'm not suggesting you spend hundreds on an 'Audiophile' blessed power cord.... Make a 'star quad' power cord from Canare star quad speaker cable - 4s8 is about $0.50/ft, and will give you the equivalent of a 13 guage powercord. Its available from many pro-audio stores. Forget a 3 prong plug and grounding, the Marantz is provided with a captive 2 wire cord, and a 2 prong non polarized plug will allow you to check the changes available with switching the powercords polarity... Or you can make your own 'star quad' (the geometry provides inherent noise rejection) cord with the wire of your own choice. Here is a link to Canare's website-
http://www.canare.com/catalog.html
click on 'cables' then 'star quad speaker cable'. Look at the tech note, and remember to connect the opposite, not adjacent, wires together, to connect the separate hot and neutral wires.
Sorry, no manual. But I did own this amp about 10 years ago. Quite nice. That sticker on top saying not to put anything on top is quite serious, It gets quite toasty and needs the ventilation. The amp sounds quite a bit more powerful than its power ratings would indicate.
It sounds substantially clearer through its direct input, but you give up the ability to use the tone controls, which are quite flexible, variable turnorver frequencies, etc...
A couple of sugesttions for minimally invasive 'tweeks' -
1. Replace those horrid 'links' on the back panel, that connect the pre-out to the power-in rca sockets. Although they're gold plated, they substantially muddy the sound. Buy 2 pair of 'tifffany' style rca plugs from parts express -
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...10&St3=60906009&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=2483&DID=7
they're also available elsewhere under the Philmore brandname. Disassemble the plugs and just use the phallic male part with the teflon 'donut' on its end. Use the wire of your choice and solder a 1 1/2" piece between 2 of the stripped connectors to make your own links.
These 'audiophile' links are also available from Audioquest and TaraLabs for about $30/pr. The Audioquest are quite good and a lot less hassle. I've not heard the Taras.
2. Replace the power cord.
I'm not suggesting you spend hundreds on an 'Audiophile' blessed power cord.... Make a 'star quad' power cord from Canare star quad speaker cable - 4s8 is about $0.50/ft, and will give you the equivalent of a 13 guage powercord. Its available from many pro-audio stores. Forget a 3 prong plug and grounding, the Marantz is provided with a captive 2 wire cord, and a 2 prong non polarized plug will allow you to check the changes available with switching the powercords polarity... Or you can make your own 'star quad' (the geometry provides inherent noise rejection) cord with the wire of your own choice. Here is a link to Canare's website-
http://www.canare.com/catalog.html
click on 'cables' then 'star quad speaker cable'. Look at the tech note, and remember to connect the opposite, not adjacent, wires together, to connect the separate hot and neutral wires.
Marantz CD-94 Service Manual
"I have Marantz CD-94 and after all those years it's still very good performer."
I got given one of these the other day (contra deal).
I agree that this is quite a good performer - so does my girlfriend, so much so that she won't give it back.
Any easy mods worth doing to this oldie ?. (I have grounded the crystal can and this has made an immediate improvement).
Anybody have a circuit manual file I can download ?.
Thanks, Eric.
"I have Marantz CD-94 and after all those years it's still very good performer."
I got given one of these the other day (contra deal).
I agree that this is quite a good performer - so does my girlfriend, so much so that she won't give it back.
Any easy mods worth doing to this oldie ?. (I have grounded the crystal can and this has made an immediate improvement).
Anybody have a circuit manual file I can download ?.
Thanks, Eric.
Here are two links with mods for this player:
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/hi_fi/com.htm
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/hi_fi/cd960.htm
As well as my thread with additional info:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5798&perpage=15&pagenumber=2
Eric, it must be your lucky day because I also have copy of a schematic. If you want it, send me an e-mail and you'll get it. I don't know how to send attachments with forum mail.
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/hi_fi/com.htm
http://members.xoom.virgilio.it/hi_fi/cd960.htm
As well as my thread with additional info:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5798&perpage=15&pagenumber=2
Eric, it must be your lucky day because I also have copy of a schematic. If you want it, send me an e-mail and you'll get it. I don't know how to send attachments with forum mail.
Peter,
email me and I'll reply to you with the sellers email address. I don't think it would be appropriate to publish his email address in a public forum. He offered the tuner and the CD player for sale at a really good price (the one you referred to in your posting) but I just couldn't get myself to spend the additional money.
paul@anascer.com
email me and I'll reply to you with the sellers email address. I don't think it would be appropriate to publish his email address in a public forum. He offered the tuner and the CD player for sale at a really good price (the one you referred to in your posting) but I just couldn't get myself to spend the additional money.
paul@anascer.com
Getting Lucky....
Peter, Thanks for the interesting links regarding the CD-94 mods.
Have you tried running yours in non-os mode, and if so what result do you reckon ?.
And thanks for the offer of the schematic - I'll email you.
"Eric, it must be your lucky day..... "
My lucky day was Saturday - I did a little 30 minute favour repair job for a friend of a friend and got the non working player and the same series tuner in the deal.
Immediately he'd gone I set about fixing the CD-94 - resoldered dry joints in supplies and connectors, loosened the laser swing arm bearings, cleaned the lens, grounded the crystal can, and hey presto better than new.
So I took the two to my girlfriend's place late that afternoon to try them out on my (now hers?) other reference system.
"What have you got this time ?".
"Oh, just a cd player and a tuner that I scammed today" (honest scam - he was more than happy with his no cash deal)
"What's wrong with what we're using ?".
"Oh, this one's an interesting old high quality cd player, and a good quality tuner too".
"I wish you'd stop changing something, just when I get used to it, ....and those cords everywhere".
"Yeah, ... ok".
"That black tuner is less high than the one we're using isn't it ?"
"Yeah by a bit".
"Does that mean you can fit both of them in the cabinet instead of having the cd player over there on the floor ?"
"Umm, yeah, maybe,.... I'll see".
5 minutes later.....
"That looks much better with everything in the cabinet - what make are they ?".
" 'Marantz', about 10 or so years old, good solid high quality, high endish audio gear in it's day".
"Uh huh".
.... Anyway we ended up having a great dinner, a great number of whiskeys and dry and playing a great number all sorts of tracks that we haven't heard for a while and pretty loud too - great night all round
Sunday morning breakfast......
"That looks much better with it all in the cabinet... I like the sound with that new cd player too..... I'll swap you the frypan ..... maybe" ( A REALLY good frypan that I got from a garage sale for nicks, that lives at her place - it is pressed from heavy thickness some kind of aluminium alloy and features concentric fine grooves and this makes a frypan that cooks everything better and cleans easier than any other frypan either if us has ever had - American, looks/feels expensive and you can't wreck it).
"Umm, but I thought that frypan was mine already too ?".
"Possession is 9/10ths of the law !"
"Yeah, ... ok".
Eric.
Peter, Thanks for the interesting links regarding the CD-94 mods.
Have you tried running yours in non-os mode, and if so what result do you reckon ?.
And thanks for the offer of the schematic - I'll email you.
"Eric, it must be your lucky day..... "
My lucky day was Saturday - I did a little 30 minute favour repair job for a friend of a friend and got the non working player and the same series tuner in the deal.
Immediately he'd gone I set about fixing the CD-94 - resoldered dry joints in supplies and connectors, loosened the laser swing arm bearings, cleaned the lens, grounded the crystal can, and hey presto better than new.
So I took the two to my girlfriend's place late that afternoon to try them out on my (now hers?) other reference system.
"What have you got this time ?".
"Oh, just a cd player and a tuner that I scammed today" (honest scam - he was more than happy with his no cash deal)
"What's wrong with what we're using ?".
"Oh, this one's an interesting old high quality cd player, and a good quality tuner too".
"I wish you'd stop changing something, just when I get used to it, ....and those cords everywhere".
"Yeah, ... ok".
"That black tuner is less high than the one we're using isn't it ?"
"Yeah by a bit".
"Does that mean you can fit both of them in the cabinet instead of having the cd player over there on the floor ?"
"Umm, yeah, maybe,.... I'll see".
5 minutes later.....
"That looks much better with everything in the cabinet - what make are they ?".
" 'Marantz', about 10 or so years old, good solid high quality, high endish audio gear in it's day".
"Uh huh".
.... Anyway we ended up having a great dinner, a great number of whiskeys and dry and playing a great number all sorts of tracks that we haven't heard for a while and pretty loud too - great night all round
Sunday morning breakfast......
"That looks much better with it all in the cabinet... I like the sound with that new cd player too..... I'll swap you the frypan ..... maybe" ( A REALLY good frypan that I got from a garage sale for nicks, that lives at her place - it is pressed from heavy thickness some kind of aluminium alloy and features concentric fine grooves and this makes a frypan that cooks everything better and cleans easier than any other frypan either if us has ever had - American, looks/feels expensive and you can't wreck it).
"Umm, but I thought that frypan was mine already too ?".
"Possession is 9/10ths of the law !"
"Yeah, ... ok".
Eric.
Inspect And Fix It Now...
PPereira, congratulations on winning a really quite fine amplifier.
I have serviced these in the past and they do sound good on the bench, but are let down big time by dry/cracked solder joints.
These amplifiers run red hot, and the severe temperature cycling/conditions causes failure of the solder joints on components internally that run hot.
Before even plugging it in especially after having being transported, I would be lifting the covers and inspecting closely and resoldering throughout as required (most particularly driver and output and heatsink temperature monitor transistors and regulator stages), and checking/calibrating bias currents before using it in anger.(under biasing is usually quite ok and reduces temperatures, but be very careful about going over bias).
Also I would place some (1 or 2) standard DC fans (these are supply voltage speed variable) on the top cover to suck the hot air out and through to help ensure longevity and reliability.
If you need some tips email me.
Eric.
PPereira, congratulations on winning a really quite fine amplifier.
I have serviced these in the past and they do sound good on the bench, but are let down big time by dry/cracked solder joints.
These amplifiers run red hot, and the severe temperature cycling/conditions causes failure of the solder joints on components internally that run hot.
Before even plugging it in especially after having being transported, I would be lifting the covers and inspecting closely and resoldering throughout as required (most particularly driver and output and heatsink temperature monitor transistors and regulator stages), and checking/calibrating bias currents before using it in anger.(under biasing is usually quite ok and reduces temperatures, but be very careful about going over bias).
Also I would place some (1 or 2) standard DC fans (these are supply voltage speed variable) on the top cover to suck the hot air out and through to help ensure longevity and reliability.
If you need some tips email me.
Eric.
resoldering throughout as required
Try 4% lead free silver solder for better sonics and higher tensil strength joints, but only if you have the correct temp controlled iron. You could use a good 2% silver solder with lead content if you don't feel like a world class solderer and will still get very good improvments. it is amazing the stuff that get out the door with questionable solder joint from even the best companies.
Temperature controlled myself for a change,
Fred
P.S. The last frypan my wife offered me seemed to be directed at my skull with absolutely no previous negotiations involved. Her mother gave her a good heavy wooden rolling pin for our wedding gift. Did you know they are called "marital equalizers" here in the States? What a funny name for kitchen tool to be ....... hey wait a minute...
Try 4% lead free silver solder for better sonics and higher tensil strength joints, but only if you have the correct temp controlled iron. You could use a good 2% silver solder with lead content if you don't feel like a world class solderer and will still get very good improvments. it is amazing the stuff that get out the door with questionable solder joint from even the best companies.
Temperature controlled myself for a change,
Fred
P.S. The last frypan my wife offered me seemed to be directed at my skull with absolutely no previous negotiations involved. Her mother gave her a good heavy wooden rolling pin for our wedding gift. Did you know they are called "marital equalizers" here in the States? What a funny name for kitchen tool to be ....... hey wait a minute...
Stereo Viagra/Prozac...
Ppereira, Good advice from PhD.
The 96%Tin/4%Silver solder that I have tried is called Multicore 96S, and in my experience it imbibes/avoids/filters a particular sound wrt lead containing solders.
Ime it is an interestingly different sound/flavour with non glaring highs and more solid bottoms.
Imo silver and lead and tin do not go well together sonically or long term pleasingly, whereas 96Tin/4Silver is good, also I find 60/38/2Copper wets and tins really well on old boards and sounds calmlingly good long term, but no lead is best.
Ppereira, you need to have a good vari-temp iron set at just the right temperature, pre-clean and after clean the pcb, clean the solder wire, have a good desolder tool, and be practised at using 96S to make it work well, and then and only then you will get really good results sonically and reliability wise.
Also give all the switches, pots and connectors the Caig Deoxit D5 treatment.
Do this and you'll be happy. If you do not service it now a blow up will be expensive, and changes a good original piece of gear.
PhD is right, or else I would not have half the repair work I do except for dud/duff solder joints - there is plenty of well designed gear out there that is let down by bad solder process both short term and long term.
Eric.
P.S. - This frypan is pretty heavy so I figure most women are unable to throw it at such speed that I can't get out of the way in time - theory still untested so far.
If it were to miss it would surely take a chunk out of any unfortunate wall - probably get blamed for that too.
There is reason in my method - I figure that if she has good and calming sound when I am there, and good and calming sound when I am not there, then I am always in the good books.
A friend of my dad advised me in all sincerity when I was a youngster "Always check out the mother first before you get too involved" - I have always followed this advice to the letter.
I have heard a hammer referred to as a persuader - is that the male equivalent ?.
Ppereira, Good advice from PhD.
The 96%Tin/4%Silver solder that I have tried is called Multicore 96S, and in my experience it imbibes/avoids/filters a particular sound wrt lead containing solders.
Ime it is an interestingly different sound/flavour with non glaring highs and more solid bottoms.
Imo silver and lead and tin do not go well together sonically or long term pleasingly, whereas 96Tin/4Silver is good, also I find 60/38/2Copper wets and tins really well on old boards and sounds calmlingly good long term, but no lead is best.
Ppereira, you need to have a good vari-temp iron set at just the right temperature, pre-clean and after clean the pcb, clean the solder wire, have a good desolder tool, and be practised at using 96S to make it work well, and then and only then you will get really good results sonically and reliability wise.
Also give all the switches, pots and connectors the Caig Deoxit D5 treatment.
Do this and you'll be happy. If you do not service it now a blow up will be expensive, and changes a good original piece of gear.
PhD is right, or else I would not have half the repair work I do except for dud/duff solder joints - there is plenty of well designed gear out there that is let down by bad solder process both short term and long term.
Eric.
P.S. - This frypan is pretty heavy so I figure most women are unable to throw it at such speed that I can't get out of the way in time - theory still untested so far.
If it were to miss it would surely take a chunk out of any unfortunate wall - probably get blamed for that too.
There is reason in my method - I figure that if she has good and calming sound when I am there, and good and calming sound when I am not there, then I am always in the good books.
A friend of my dad advised me in all sincerity when I was a youngster "Always check out the mother first before you get too involved" - I have always followed this advice to the letter.
I have heard a hammer referred to as a persuader - is that the male equivalent ?.
thanks everybody. great advice. A while back I bought a spool of WBT solder and I've been using it since... It was quite expensive but I wouldn't use anything else... I feel a little weird when people talk about the sonic qualities of solder ... What I know is that this solder makes great joints and it's really great to use when compared to your run of the mill RS solder....
Hi,
Have a PM64mk2 (as backup). And i have the original Marantz folder from '89:
PM94G price was fl 4298 ~ Euro 1954.
Somewhere it says a total of 90000uF on capacitors.
Peak is 330W into 4 ohms,150W eff into 8 ohm. 25 kg weight.
In the PM64 is a module in the amp for amplification and then the bipolar transitors. This module (STK3102) runs too hot and broke down in mine. I installed a new one and added a heatsink to it.
Like a said i have it as backup, here's a crappy pic of my current amp. Also from '89: the audioanalyse B90mk2.
Greetings,
Guido
Have a PM64mk2 (as backup). And i have the original Marantz folder from '89:
PM94G price was fl 4298 ~ Euro 1954.
Somewhere it says a total of 90000uF on capacitors.
Peak is 330W into 4 ohms,150W eff into 8 ohm. 25 kg weight.
In the PM64 is a module in the amp for amplification and then the bipolar transitors. This module (STK3102) runs too hot and broke down in mine. I installed a new one and added a heatsink to it.
Like a said i have it as backup, here's a crappy pic of my current amp. Also from '89: the audioanalyse B90mk2.
Greetings,
Guido
Attachments
Does anyone actually have a service manual/schematic for a PM 94. I have a PM 94 and a CD 94II amd the PM has just died. Over the years I have had to resolder the Power amplifier connectors twice but this new fault is difficult to trace without schematics.
The class A and AB supplies are ok and the amps get hot indicating that the amps are powered and biased. However, the speaker relays do not operate and there are no front panel lights.
If anybody has any ideas I would be most grateful - I can't bear the thought of retiring my '94.
Thanks
Stuart Moore
The class A and AB supplies are ok and the amps get hot indicating that the amps are powered and biased. However, the speaker relays do not operate and there are no front panel lights.
If anybody has any ideas I would be most grateful - I can't bear the thought of retiring my '94.
Thanks
Stuart Moore
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