Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Solid State
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Solid State Talk all about solid state amplification.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 19th December 2005, 03:06 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sao Paulo
Send a message via MSN to -_nando-_ Send a message via Skype™ to -_nando-_
Default Just a little thing about this amplifier...

Hi guys ! Take a look:

http://www.ampslab.com/c300.htm

Click the image to open in full size.

The PSU transformer should be 50+50, so after retification deliver 70 + 70, or the PSU should be 36 + 36 to deliver 50+50 after retification?

An other thing...

Click the image to open in full size.

What's the BIAS VR in this schematic? R22 or R10... R22 right?

Can I adjust bias without a scope?



Thankssss !!
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2005, 03:17 PM   #2
lineup is offline lineup  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
lineup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
R10 is used to set output to 0.0V
R22 for bias, yes

to see how much current output bias
you measure voltage across R33

current will be V/R33 resistance
and total current will be this x4, as there are 4 transistors in output
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2005, 03:25 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sao Paulo
Send a message via MSN to -_nando-_ Send a message via Skype™ to -_nando-_
V / R33

V = The +Volt from Supply ?

I didn't understand anything...

Please, tell me more detailed


And asking again, PSU Rails = 50 + 50 mean that this is the voltage AFTER or BEFORE retification?


Thanks !!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2005, 03:49 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
jacco vermeulen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: At the sea front, just under Rotterdam
Send a message via Yahoo to jacco vermeulen
200 watts in 8 ohms is 40 volts continuous.
Peak voltage is 1.41 higher, 56.4 volts.
Rail voltage needs to be higher than that.
V rails is after rectification, so it is the 70 volts.
__________________
Looks like Sponge Bob has killed another thread.
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2005, 04:42 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sao Paulo
Send a message via MSN to -_nando-_ Send a message via Skype™ to -_nando-_
70 + 70v

Now I believe that this amp can deliver 300W RMS

  Reply With Quote
Old 19th December 2005, 07:01 PM   #6
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
Hi Nando,
vr10 adjusts the output offset.
Set your dmm to DC volts, start with a low sensitivity try 200Vdc max scale to start with.
Measure the voltage across the speaker terminals with NO load on the output. Adjust the DMM down to maximum sensitivity without over loading it. Now adjust vr10 until you have 0mVdc at the terminals. Anything less than 10mVdc is OK. It is worth checking this cold and hot allow upto an hour for the hot reading.

vr22 adjusts the output stage bias (Iq).
Find r33 (emitter resistor) and all it's partners. Measure the voltage across each resistor, again start with the meter set high.
Now calculate the current in each emitter resistor using that formula, I=V/R. Keep all your units in Amperes and Volts and Ohms to avoid losing decimals places. Now calculate the voltage you need across the emitter resistor when it has the correct bias current. Same formula, just turn it around, V=I*R. Adjust vr22 until the emitter resistor voltage is as you have just calculated. Check each of the other 7 resistors to be sure they are reasonably balanced +-10% should be OK.

What speaker impedance are you planning to use?
If 8ohms then the 400VA transformer per channel is OK. If 4ohm then increase the transformer to 600VA per channel.
Similarly the main smoothing caps need to be +-14mF per channel for 8ohm and +-28mF per channel for 4ohm.

With an input impedance of 10k (r2) the input capacitor (c1) needs to be a big plastic job. 4u7F to 10uF to keep the bass from being cut off early and avoid some phase change at low frequencies. You could use a 22uF 16Vac bipolar electrolytic but this will have poor performance although it is cheaper.
__________________
regards Andrew T.
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2005, 10:12 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sao Paulo
Send a message via MSN to -_nando-_ Send a message via Skype™ to -_nando-_
Thank you Andrew, appreciated your answer !



Well, everything is fine to start building this amp, BUT I can't find that MJE 350/340... Which transistor can replace them?

Thanks !!
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2005, 10:17 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sao Paulo
Send a message via MSN to -_nando-_ Send a message via Skype™ to -_nando-_
Oh ! Another thing !

This amp runs at + - 70v, and the transistors are 140v... Too much in the limits don't you think?

Maybe using MJ15024/5 (16A 200v) is better... The original transistors (15003/4) are cheaper, 20A 140v...

I do NOT wanna see transistors blowing like pop corn...

Thanks !!
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2005, 12:29 PM   #9
lineup is offline lineup  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
lineup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
Quote:
Originally posted by -_nando-_
... BUT I can't find that MJE 350/340... Which transistor can replace them?
Not many good replacements. Have to take at least 150 Vce.
I suggest you look for to find MJE350/340.
They are good standard and used in many, many amplifiers.
Should not be impossible to find
if you look in another shop or can buy from internet.

Maybe you can try in forum 'Trading Posts' if anyone can sell you some.
I am sure there are 100 of members here, that have MJE350/340 at home.
__________________
lineup
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th December 2005, 12:36 PM   #10
lineup is offline lineup  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
lineup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the north
Quote:
Originally posted by -_nando-_
This amp runs at + - 70v, and the transistors are 140v...
Maybe using MJ15024/5 (16A 200v) is better... The original transistors (15003/4) are cheaper, 20A 140v...
As you say, I should use MJ15024/5 here.
They very much like MJ15003/4 but can take more voltage.
Even if they cost a bit more, this nothing if you think what box, trafo, heatsink and other things cost.

Transistors are never the expensive stuff in an amplifier.
__________________
lineup
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The next big thing? pinkmouse Everything Else 7 15th August 2006 03:24 AM
next best thing kartsmart Digital Source 5 9th November 2005 10:38 PM
My first, um, thing soneil Chip Amps 3 15th January 2004 04:37 AM
The best thing... Nickolas K. Pass Labs 7 9th July 2003 09:01 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:51 AM.

Page generated in 0.15460 seconds (60.52% PHP - 39.48% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio