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Marantz PM66 KI tweeks
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Old 15th June 2011, 04:39 PM   #391
Fidelity Audio is offline Fidelity Audio  England
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The K should be ok, give it a go!

Brent
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Old 15th June 2011, 05:43 PM   #392
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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Cool! That's nice to hear, especially because I forgot I had them. If they work out, I could look at bypassing them with 0.1uF Mundorf SGO.

I didn't see where you put your bypass caps in your amp, Brent. One concern I have is that my FKs are connected by quite a few cm of Kimber TCSS, which looks considerably thinner than the wires you used for your Silmics.

Do you guys have an opinion on whether it's best in this case to run the bypass caps right across the main cap terminals after the wires so the impedance is matched for both - which also happens to be the easiest thing in the world to try - or should I be soldering them right on the PCB?
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Old 16th June 2011, 10:13 AM   #393
Fidelity Audio is offline Fidelity Audio  England
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I fitted the mundorfs across the smoothers as it was much easier to do. I used a large gauge wire to eliminate current drop, a twin pair of kimber per run should be ok too. It is very good cable

Brent
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Old 16th June 2011, 03:56 PM   #394
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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I was wondering if I should do another run of Kimber. That sounds like a plan. I fitted the 100uF Ks between the smoothing cap terminals last night and my initial impressions were mixed - then I remembered how long it takes new Black Gates to settle down, so I'll leave them there for a few days before I decide if they're staying.
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Old 19th June 2011, 10:47 AM   #395
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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I ended up braiding 3 runs of Kimber TCSS together (3TC?) and terminated with some nice gold plated OFC spades. I'm still not sure about the snubbing.
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Old 19th June 2011, 10:51 AM   #396
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Maybe the excellent caps you already had are the most coherent option to use. The other nice bits can probably be used elsewhere so no great loss if it doesn't provide a sound you prefer.

3TC would be 6 litz wires, 3 for positive, 3 for negative
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Old 19th June 2011, 11:13 AM   #397
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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Hi Simon,

Yep, I did three runs of TCSS Red/Black Twist per cap, so that's 3 wires per terminal; 6 wires per cap. It made a big difference, either/or because the wire was too thin before or the connection wasn't good enough.

I left a bit of bare wire showing so I could try the bypass nearer the PCB, and swapped the 50v Ks for some 100v FKs so they'd be better matched, but I haven't tried them yet. My OCD wants me to build a 11111.1uF bypass cascade from BGs and Munforf Supremes, but I wouldn't be surprised if my big FKs sound best working alone. Perhaps their mysterious 'electron transfer' properties negate the need for bypass...

Ben
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Old 19th June 2011, 11:34 AM   #398
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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lol yep, maybe!
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Old 22nd June 2011, 04:25 PM   #399
Ben Hanke is offline Ben Hanke  Canada
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I've broken it!

CD63 thread readers will know that I've been unhappy with the bass/treble balance of my CD player for a few days and I've been trying to pin it on my last mod to remove the DC coupling caps. Anyway, last night the plot thickened when I realized that the sound was getting worse by the day - it was distorting with any kind of work, and deep bass had completely disappeared. Futhermore, it was actually now noticeably affecting other sources as well. I tried playing some 'Gorillaz' and it had almost no bass at all where normally it would rattle the windows, at which point I realized my amp was losing its balls at an alarming rate...

So, on a hunch, I decided to switch my big cap connection back to bare wire just in case the spades I put on were adding too much impedance. I checked everything over and put it all back together again... but things continued to take a turn for the worse.

Now when I turn it on there is a loud hum in the right channel that gets quieter if I turn the volume up. If I play music, the right channel sounds like crap and the left channel is completely dead.

If I turn it on without the input from the pot connected to the main board, a loud mains-like hum comes out of the LEFT channel and gets louder and louder very quickly until the protection relay kicks in.

I checked that both channels of input signal are making it to the main board. I checked all my joints and measured the resistance of everything I could think of, but just can't see anything wrong.

Last edited by Ben Hanke; 22nd June 2011 at 04:26 PM. Reason: All your base
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Old 22nd June 2011, 04:28 PM   #400
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Sorry to hear this. Have you measured the main rail voltages?

Simon
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