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#281 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dunfermline
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If you're going to replace a lot of the components wouldn't it be cheaper to buy an SE and replace the tx with a toroidal version? I'm trying to source a KI and they are a bit thin on the ground. SEs are a lot cheaper too.
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Bernie. |
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#282 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Amplifier channel successfully rebuilt, and sounding great
- thanks to some of the great people on this site who contributed provided information, sources for components and patience. Thanks diyAudio -you guys are a great bunch
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NYV |
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#283 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: London, UK
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@Brent:
I converted the phono inputs in my PM66KI to another set of line-level ones (I don't have a turntable). Problem is, because the phono setting on the source selector switch was never used, the contacts on the attached PCB switch are dirty. When I use this position I have to twiddle the knob a bit to get the left channel to come in. So, can I: a) get a direct replacement for this switch (i.e., is it a standard alps part or something)? I didn't pay much attention to it when I had the amp apart. b) can it be opened and cleaned? c) is there something I can squirt into it that will do the job without endangering the other contacts? Cheers! |
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#284 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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Hi Glenn
The top clips off the switch, usually switch cleaner and lots of sliding of the switch will sort it out. While it is in bits you may as well bypass the source direct etc (or have you already done that?) I had to remove the phono pcb in mine due to the larger heatsinks LOL Brent |
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#285 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: London, UK
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Thanks for that Brent!
I'll have a go on a wet Sunday soon (probably won't have to wait long...) Cheers. |
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#286 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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It's that time and a sad time. I'm selling the uber 66KI
![]() It's been my rear channel amp for the last 6 month and to be honest it's a waste there. Not sure how much I want for it but i'm open to sensible offers. It would also have to be local pick up as the two transformers are layed down rather than bolted down. Brent |
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#287 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sad news indeed, Brent. I've been following this thread for about 4 years now, and was recently inspired to gradually start following your mods list. I got the Black Gate cap swaps done so far, and I expect I'll probably continue, although the transformer is hard to get without breaking an amp and those Silmics of yours seem pretty unique (you recently recommended Mundorf to me as alternatives). I hope it goes to a good home and you decide to keep the pics and docs up on your site.
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#288 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The North West
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Hi Bwent
newbie here, read the posting again and again, bought what was a faulty KI66 to find tit sounds great, got it off ebay and watch yours go too, indeed sad, but not for the buyer. So many questions, TX, cap values, heatsinks from, what first, what next, when, eh? so will you be running a day course ' getting to know my KI' with tea and biscuits Super posts Tc |
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#289 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The North West
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helllloooo?
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#290 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The North West
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hi kinda new here, been following the 66Ki tweeks and all and thought i would keep a brief here on my upgrades to the 66KI, of course following closely to Rowemeister who has been great help so far.
Bought a 66KI from ebay - said not working but was working fine when i fiddled with the speaker outputs. the sound is good with a good balance of bass and treble with clarity. so the amp will be used for a full system - CD17, tuner, vinyl and a CC45 multiCD. so the very first thing i did was look inside, quite sparsh for a large box. Then without any cost i removed the wire from the RCA board (PV01)to the board with the record and direct control (PS01), I then wired from the Master volume to the RCA board with the 4 core cable that was from the MV to the PS01, using R,Rgnd, L Lgnd, this is simple to do. By missing out the PS01 board the sound has a cleaner route and does sound better, clarity improved. This cable will be changed for better cable here and from MV to power board, using 20AWG jupiter solid copper. Next smoother caps and bridge rectifier to change, i have some 63000uf/63v BHC caps coming, but i am working out how to install the new diodes, inductors and bleeder resistor within the current board. Happy soldering. Tc |
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