sorry boys
i was see befor class D is for low and class H for midell and class AB for high frequenses then i want to try class H beacuse it have more efeciency from class AB.
this is not good idea?
why?
what is your recommendation for replace class AB?
sorry for my bad english
thanks friend
i was see befor class D is for low and class H for midell and class AB for high frequenses then i want to try class H beacuse it have more efeciency from class AB.
this is not good idea?
why?
what is your recommendation for replace class AB?
sorry for my bad english
thanks friend
Last edited:
What about this H-amp:
Ground Sound
Iv'e just build one for my subs, and it works like af charm in all areas. Me and a friend tested it against af Icepower1000ASP, and the HPA2k simply has more power, grip and finesse - when driving a pair of 15" SB acoustics.
I only shortly tried it in a fullrange passive setup, where I heard no apparent shortcomings across the entire audible bandwidth.
In no way, do I fell that this is a PA amp. No hum or hiss - just awesome bass performance
Ground Sound
Iv'e just build one for my subs, and it works like af charm in all areas. Me and a friend tested it against af Icepower1000ASP, and the HPA2k simply has more power, grip and finesse - when driving a pair of 15" SB acoustics.
I only shortly tried it in a fullrange passive setup, where I heard no apparent shortcomings across the entire audible bandwidth.
In no way, do I fell that this is a PA amp. No hum or hiss - just awesome bass performance
Kanwar has the skillset to make this happen with ease,
there is no reason to dissuade him with subjective opinion.
Lets him make the amplifier and do his own ABX auditions
to see if his design is audible vs. any other amp.
I have a feeling it will work out very well...
Post your schematic when done
Thanxz Thylantyr
Here is the promised schematic
Workhorse 1500W Bipolar Class H - diyAudio
hello all.
am planing to make the 1500w class-h amp. i have a
82-41-0-41-82 with 15v and
19v toroid trafo weighing about 9.5 kg. i want
to diy the amp from
start to finish. i just need a few questions sorted
out.
1 what is the bias voltage?
2 the schematic shows that 1 uf4007 on the bias section is not
applicable buh the pcb layouts show it is. may
i know the one is correct
3 can i use mbr20200ct diode in place of
stps20sm100s?
4 what equivalent diode can i use in place of
bas21 because in my country its not there.
5 of all the zener diodes on the schematic only
1n4744 is there in my country. i believe these
are one watt editions. can i use 500mw
type in place of all the zeners or any equivalents i can use
6 the 220 and 150 ohm presets are marked
with 40%. am asking what it means
sorry for many questions i just want to be sure
when making that am
fed with expert advice.
am planing to make the 1500w class-h amp. i have a
82-41-0-41-82 with 15v and
19v toroid trafo weighing about 9.5 kg. i want
to diy the amp from
start to finish. i just need a few questions sorted
out.
1 what is the bias voltage?
2 the schematic shows that 1 uf4007 on the bias section is not
applicable buh the pcb layouts show it is. may
i know the one is correct
3 can i use mbr20200ct diode in place of
stps20sm100s?
4 what equivalent diode can i use in place of
bas21 because in my country its not there.
5 of all the zener diodes on the schematic only
1n4744 is there in my country. i believe these
are one watt editions. can i use 500mw
type in place of all the zeners or any equivalents i can use
6 the 220 and 150 ohm presets are marked
with 40%. am asking what it means
sorry for many questions i just want to be sure
when making that am
fed with expert advice.
Last edited:
i think :
1. bias v to gnd 1v - 1.25v max or 2,5v max b to b
2. uf4007 replacement with byv26e or other
3. stps20sm100s repllace with mur 1560
4. bas21 can be replacement with bav21 or 1n4148
5. use 15v zener 500mw 2x is simple technics
6. 220r vr is dc offset adjustmen then 150r vr is bias voltage adjustment,..
with 40% rotary position u can get max dco and max bias volt,..
7. i try simulation with MS13 voltage rating 160vrms/80vrms get 2600wrms 4r load and u need 2,6 kva toroidal transformator...
8. i hoppe this can help
warm regard,..
1. bias v to gnd 1v - 1.25v max or 2,5v max b to b
2. uf4007 replacement with byv26e or other
3. stps20sm100s repllace with mur 1560
4. bas21 can be replacement with bav21 or 1n4148
5. use 15v zener 500mw 2x is simple technics
6. 220r vr is dc offset adjustmen then 150r vr is bias voltage adjustment,..
with 40% rotary position u can get max dco and max bias volt,..
7. i try simulation with MS13 voltage rating 160vrms/80vrms get 2600wrms 4r load and u need 2,6 kva toroidal transformator...
8. i hoppe this can help
warm regard,..
The HiFi vs Pro dilemma
My first post, if I read more here at diyAudio, I probably would not need to ask this; Looking for a 1000 W + / ch. amp to drive my new (less efficient) RCF 18" subs. My Phase Linear 700 is pushed to the limit at about 420 wpc.
I am considering a Crest CA 18 or a QSC 5050, which I could likely find used in Canada. Specs look better on the Crest, justifying the higher cost.
I have read here that both are class H, and that G is better. It is for subs, at the moment, but I would still like have a clean amp (re rail switching noise, etc, I'm new!).
Could any one suggest an amp (some one mentioned a Crown 5000) or what might be the best amp that could be considered 'HiFi', in this power range.
Thanks, Peter
My first post, if I read more here at diyAudio, I probably would not need to ask this; Looking for a 1000 W + / ch. amp to drive my new (less efficient) RCF 18" subs. My Phase Linear 700 is pushed to the limit at about 420 wpc.
I am considering a Crest CA 18 or a QSC 5050, which I could likely find used in Canada. Specs look better on the Crest, justifying the higher cost.
I have read here that both are class H, and that G is better. It is for subs, at the moment, but I would still like have a clean amp (re rail switching noise, etc, I'm new!).
Could any one suggest an amp (some one mentioned a Crown 5000) or what might be the best amp that could be considered 'HiFi', in this power range.
Thanks, Peter
You won't hear rail switching noise on a sub amp unless it's broken. I've run CA18's and RMX5050's side by side in the same rack. The CA18's can be pushed harder of course - transformer is bigger and the power cord is sized to handle it. I've never had a 5050 misbehave, but they will run uncomfortably hot driving 2 ohms per side even though they are technically more efficient than the Crest. The 5050 also suffers from the usual QSC-circuit crossover distortion. Not an issue with a sub, but it's there. The Crest uses a more 'normal' (or "blameless") circuit topology.
As for fidelity, the Crown 500xVZ is probably better. But it only runs "class H" when the ODEP circuit tells it to, and when it does it's not a fast switch. In "normal" operation it's just class B on full rail voltage and draws a stupid amount of AC current. You WILL need a 30 amp plug for the Crown on any load heavier than 8 ohms (can get away with plugging a Crest or QSC into a 20A circuit). But if you're not running heavily clipped/compressed it's maybe the tightest bass you'll ever hear/feel.
In any case, be perpared for a whole new world if you're coming from a Flame Linear.
As for fidelity, the Crown 500xVZ is probably better. But it only runs "class H" when the ODEP circuit tells it to, and when it does it's not a fast switch. In "normal" operation it's just class B on full rail voltage and draws a stupid amount of AC current. You WILL need a 30 amp plug for the Crown on any load heavier than 8 ohms (can get away with plugging a Crest or QSC into a 20A circuit). But if you're not running heavily clipped/compressed it's maybe the tightest bass you'll ever hear/feel.
In any case, be perpared for a whole new world if you're coming from a Flame Linear.
Thanks for the help, just to clarify, do you prefer the Crown over the Crest? And if so, is the MA-5002VZ a current version of the MA-5000VZ?
PS; I have thought for years that my Phase Linears were the "be all and end all" amp. I still want to keep them for driving my Line array mids.
I am concerned about 'switching distortion' in the sub amp because I would like to have the option to use it for other applications, (full range passive crossover speakers.
Thanks again, Peter
PS; I have thought for years that my Phase Linears were the "be all and end all" amp. I still want to keep them for driving my Line array mids.
I am concerned about 'switching distortion' in the sub amp because I would like to have the option to use it for other applications, (full range passive crossover speakers.
Thanks again, Peter