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Old 6th November 2005, 06:57 AM   #1
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Default Want to go active, need good 100w per chan amp for 6 spkrs

I decided to go with active xovers for my diy 3-way system I'm building. However, I need recommendations on great sounding amps (diy or pre-built) with about 100watts a channel (for a total of 6 channels). I don't care if it is a mono or multi channel design so long as it sounds good (has speed, air, and is transparent [not colored]), and doesn't cost a fortune maybe under a $1k US for all 6 channels.
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Old 6th November 2005, 07:12 AM   #2
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assemble tripath class d amp kits.class d,value for money,great sound(class d).

or
build completely by yourself tda7294 or tda7293 chip amps.flawless reproduction of sound.great quality.avoid lm series.too heavy on bases.
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Old 6th November 2005, 07:30 AM   #3
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Hi,
is that stereo 3way?
or six channel 3way?
First needs 6 amps and second needs 18amps.
My recommendation is monoblock the bass units.
Stereo amps for each pair of mid and treble.
Ensure the mid and treble amps have good quality caps in the input filter, NFB dc block and decoupling. Since these can be relatively small use polypropylene. Aim for RC time constant at input about 7 times high pass roll off frequency and at NFB 10 times and at PSU 20 times.
All your amp to speaker cables can and should be VERY short.
I like Crimson 1704 very much, previously in issue VII (quasi 4ohm and above) now as issue VIII (complementary but not quite as robust 8ohm and above). In UK these preassembled boards cost about 120 (GBP) a pair bringing you in at just about your limit plus PSU, hardware and casings.
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Old 6th November 2005, 07:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by AndrewT
Hi,
is that stereo 3way?
or six channel 3way?
First needs 6 amps and second needs 18amps.
My recommendation is monoblock the bass units.
Stereo amps for each pair of mid and treble.
Ensure the mid and treble amps have good quality caps in the input filter, NFB dc block and decoupling. Since these can be relatively small use polypropylene. Aim for RC time constant at input about 7 times high pass roll off frequency and at NFB 10 times and at PSU 20 times.
All your amp to speaker cables can and should be VERY short.
I like Crimson 1704 very much, previously in issue VII (quasi 4ohm and above) now as issue VIII (complementary but not quite as robust 8ohm and above). In UK these preassembled boards cost about 120 (GBP) a pair bringing you in at just about your limit plus PSU, hardware and casings.

18 amps
is it for auditorium?or stadium?or.....
imonoblocks for bass:::good
stereo for m and h::::good

note::::to get good overall response,ensure that bass amp is atleast three times powerful than treble and double of mids.total bass power should also be that times mid and high powers.

rest all good things had been mentioned by andrew t
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Old 6th November 2005, 07:49 AM   #5
Luke is offline Luke  New Zealand
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like sagarverma's idea of class D. Or how bout something like:

http://sound.westhost.com/project3a.htm

http://sound.westhost.com/project101.htm

should be able to build 6 of these for under 1K.

Good luck sounds like a fun project, what speakers are you going to build?
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Old 6th November 2005, 08:04 AM   #6
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Hi,
I used to think along the power lines suggested by Sagarverma.
But I am coming round to similar power for each amp (except a sub bass driver). This is to ensure that adequate voltage drive is available to each drive unit to meet transients.
However you can economise on PSU by designing in enormous continuous current availability to the bass amp and lesser continuous current ability to the mid & treble drive units. This gives some leaway to specify higher quality electrolytics and fewer parallel pairs of output devices for M & T. Maybe even experiment with plastic film caps throughout the treble amp and it's PSU.
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Old 6th November 2005, 09:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Luke
like sagarverma's idea of class D. Or how bout something like:

http://sound.westhost.com/project3a.htm

http://sound.westhost.com/project101.htm

should be able to build 6 of these for under 1K.

Good luck sounds like a fun project, what speakers are you going to build?
his amp p3a is very popular,but it has a serious anomaly,mentioned by Mr Elliot himself,it lacks o/p short protection.mosfet amp has good figures , but dont forget to use a o/p s.c protection.u never know when u need it.

chip amps save u from the headache of building extra ckts that discerte
designs demand.mosfet o/p chips(tda72xx) and the class d chips offer u benifits of integrated design with quality found in discrete designs.
class d score up bec of high effeciency so small heatsinking(more cost savings)
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Old 7th November 2005, 06:24 AM   #8
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Thanks for the replies.

I am planning on building a stereo 3-way speaker setup using Vifa XT19 tweeter, Dayton Reference 5" mid, and Dayton Reference 8" woofer. I've never used a class D amp and am worried they won't sound good (looking for maximum speed, detail, and air). Any recommended class A designs/kits? (I don't like how class AB sounds). If anyone has specific links to kits they highly recommend that would be great. Thanks
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Old 7th November 2005, 10:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by silvercans

I am planning on building a stereo 3-way speaker setup using Vifa XT19 tweeter, Dayton Reference 5" mid, and Dayton Reference 8" woofer.
Doing a 3-way project using an 8" unit doesn't seem to me too wise. You will lose one or two lower octaves.

Either do a two-way, using an 8" that will go high enough. Or look for a 10" that will let you make a 3-way, using those Vifa and Dayton 5", that will go lower.


Carlos
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Old 8th November 2005, 03:25 AM   #10
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I agree, I will be using the dayton 10".

Any links or recommended designs / schematics for amps?
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