Hi Tom,
You can do more damage. It is possible to change it from cheap to fix to expensive to fix. Or from repairable to unrepairable. Please proceed with help.
You may want to have this move to the solid state forum for a better response.
So, is the fuse open or okay? If it's open, is it blown with a big silver or black mark, or just a little "puff" on the glass. Looking at the unit, are there any obviously burned area's or parts? Can you post a picture?
-Chris
You can do more damage. It is possible to change it from cheap to fix to expensive to fix. Or from repairable to unrepairable. Please proceed with help.
You may want to have this move to the solid state forum for a better response.
So, is the fuse open or okay? If it's open, is it blown with a big silver or black mark, or just a little "puff" on the glass. Looking at the unit, are there any obviously burned area's or parts? Can you post a picture?
-Chris
No takers ? Well anyway here's what it does. The amp turns on, the green light comes on when given a signal but no out put to the speaker. I have tried different A/V recievers to power it so I know it's the plate amp. I tried poking around with volt meter but I didn't find anything dead. I could realy use some help here . I'd hate to trash the amp. TKS Tom
Hi Tom,
Did you read my post? I don't have the diagram, but I am attempting to help.
The light is on, therefore the fuse is good. Are you using the speaker inputs or the RCA input jacK? Have you checked the volume control position?
Sorry if the questions are basic, but I don't know what you've done so far.
-Chris
Did you read my post? I don't have the diagram, but I am attempting to help.
The light is on, therefore the fuse is good. Are you using the speaker inputs or the RCA input jacK? Have you checked the volume control position?
Sorry if the questions are basic, but I don't know what you've done so far.
-Chris
Takers?
Sure. Here you go with the schematic kindly provided by Steve at http://www.apexjr.com/Apexsenior.htm
On the power supply/output schematic you can see two bridge rectifiers: B01 and B02. They provide the main voltages for the amp.
If your outputs transistors were shorted, you'd probably have a blown mains fuse so I recommand to measure if you have + and - 15V at the indicated points first.
/Hugo
Sure. Here you go with the schematic kindly provided by Steve at http://www.apexjr.com/Apexsenior.htm
On the power supply/output schematic you can see two bridge rectifiers: B01 and B02. They provide the main voltages for the amp.
If your outputs transistors were shorted, you'd probably have a blown mains fuse so I recommand to measure if you have + and - 15V at the indicated points first.
/Hugo
anatech,
Almost a year ago I made an attempt to start a thread regarding my plate amp.
Thommessen plate amp
As you can see I wasn't as fortuned as the guy who started this one.
Cheers
Almost a year ago I made an attempt to start a thread regarding my plate amp.
Thommessen plate amp
As you can see I wasn't as fortuned as the guy who started this one.
Cheers
Hi Tom,
Does it make a "pop" in the speaker when you turn it on? There is no relay, the speaker is always connected so it should make a noise.
The amp may in in "protect", which should save the woofer. You may need to start taking some measurements. For instance, the emitters of Q1/Q2 should measure -0.6 V or so. Disconnect the speaker when taking measurements.
-Chris
Does it make a "pop" in the speaker when you turn it on? There is no relay, the speaker is always connected so it should make a noise.
The amp may in in "protect", which should save the woofer. You may need to start taking some measurements. For instance, the emitters of Q1/Q2 should measure -0.6 V or so. Disconnect the speaker when taking measurements.
-Chris
Hi Tom,
Your post has been moved to the solid State Forum where it will be seen by more members. A kind moderator has moved it for you. A mystery moderator.
So the "pop" noise means there is power. Time to break out your meterand take some measurements. If you are uncomfortable with this, please have a friend help you. An oscilloscope might be handy too.
-Chris
Your post has been moved to the solid State Forum where it will be seen by more members. A kind moderator has moved it for you. A mystery moderator.
So the "pop" noise means there is power. Time to break out your meterand take some measurements. If you are uncomfortable with this, please have a friend help you. An oscilloscope might be handy too.
-Chris
Hi Tom,
So it shorted the collector of a negative output transistor and possibly some other parts.
Please measure the very low value resistors (emitter) for continuity and the 10 ohm base resistors. Also the 220 ohm resistor. Then measure continuity between each supply rail to the speaker output. Turn the leads around each way. One direction should give you an extremely high resistance. A short means an output has shorted.
-Chris
So it shorted the collector of a negative output transistor and possibly some other parts.
Please measure the very low value resistors (emitter) for continuity and the 10 ohm base resistors. Also the 220 ohm resistor. Then measure continuity between each supply rail to the speaker output. Turn the leads around each way. One direction should give you an extremely high resistance. A short means an output has shorted.
-Chris
Did you unscrew the cover with the power on then? I guess you have learnt a lesson.
The emitter connection of a transistor is the one with the little arrow on it as in the circuit diagram. The supply rail is the power line. You might like to do some basic reading up on terminology and what's what before you proceed
The emitter connection of a transistor is the one with the little arrow on it as in the circuit diagram. The supply rail is the power line. You might like to do some basic reading up on terminology and what's what before you proceed
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