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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Please help me with selecting a Heatsink for a P3a.
Loudspeaker Supported: Mass Loaded Quarter Wave Transmission Line (Custom) Active 3-Way Crossover (Project 9) 2 P3a Amps (low and Mid) 1 P3b Amp for high Drivers: Low MLTL - Vifa MG18WK09-04 Driver (Madisound) Sensitivity 90.5, 4ohm impedence Mid - Sealed Enclosure on top Vifa MG10MD09-08 Midrange Sensitivity 88.5, 4 Ohm High - Hi Vi RT1L Circular Ribbon Sensitivity 88, 4Ohm Amp Components: Standard P3a Setup from ESP website 150 VA, 30/30 Torroidal Transformer (713.302 from toroid.com) The Heatsink I am considering is the E1162 from thermaflo.com http://www.thermaflo.com/ There are 14 fins, each 1.5" high. The HS is 4.56" wide and I am targeting about 4" in length. On the ESP HS calculator that gives me about 1.0315C/Watt. Does anyone see any flaws with this arrangement? - I am not so much concerned about cost, but more about sound quality. I am having trouble determing what size heat sink I will need as this will be used in a three-way MLQTL. By the design, each driver should need a bare minimum of power. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Calgary
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National has a calculator available. A search on this site should find it if you can't find it yourself at www.national.com .
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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hi audioferret,
I have a standard P3A (one stereo pcb) into 4 ohm speakers and I use one 0.37C/watt heatsink. The HS only gets sightly warm with the recommended bias after many hours of normal playing. BTW: For 4 ohm speakers I think Rod recommends a max of 35vDC (i.e 25-0-25 toriod). Hope that helps. Regards
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Greg Erskine |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Dude,
Where did you get your heatsink? When you say "one" is that one for each board, or one for both boards? How is that laid out in your chassis? I would like to use the heat sinks for the R+L side walls, but I can be flexible. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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ferret,
The HS is the last one, here: http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/single_f.html This pic should answer your other questions.
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Greg Erskine |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Conrad's the go...... very good heatsinks.
Nicely made, Greg, neat job! Cheers, Hugh |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
at 1Cdeg/W and 150VA both your heatsink and transformer are on the small side. On 50Vdc rails P3 can produce about 200W into 4 ohms and if you want good bass your supply should allow operation into 2 to 2.5R without sagging excessively. This requires a transformer between 300VA and 500VA per mono channel 500VA to 800VA for stereo or 2 channel. On 37Vdc your power ratings are reduced by about half but if you go towards the lower end then the regulation of your transformer increases and gives a poor PSU with again sagging voltage. Your heatsink for domestic ClassAB should be able to dissipate about a quarter your maximum output or for party/PA use about 60% of maximum output. so you are in the range 25W/50W domestic and 60W/120W PA. At these levels of dissipation your heatsink/s are going to run at least 25 Cdeg above ambient when listening to loud music on 4 ohm speakers with 37Vdc PSU rails and even worse for the other options.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks Hugh,
I actually bought the PSU, heatsink and Toshiba output devices from someone around the Melbourne area. ferret, As Andrew pointed out you may need to think about your transformers, those toriods I used are 25-0-25 160 VA. Regards
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Greg Erskine |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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That helps so much, thank you!
This site rocks, you guys rock... Rock on! |
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