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Old 2nd August 2005, 01:32 PM   #1
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Default nad 304 annoying fault

My NAD 304 has a problem with the right hand channel. This stays mute for about 10 minutes after switch-on, then bursts into life and works fine until switched off. There is no intermittent on and off, no break up or crackling. The pre-amp section is OK -headphones work fine. The speakers work ok when swapped over. I can live with this fault, but would prefer not to. Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers

Neil
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Old 2nd August 2005, 01:37 PM   #2
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This could either be the output-relay itself or its control circuitry (i.e. DC protection).
This is what jumps to my mind and is not meant to be a terminal listing of possible causes.

Regards

Charles
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Old 2nd August 2005, 03:52 PM   #3
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Thanks for that Charles. Any idea why it comes to life after a few minutes? Effect of heating possibly?

Cheers,

Neil
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Old 2nd August 2005, 08:23 PM   #4
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If this amp has two separate speaker relays with seperate control circuits for the speakers, then I would guess that the reason is more in the relay control circuit.
May be one of the delay caps (mostly E-caps) got old and
has a high leakage current. Leakage current of E-caps
is typically decreasing during the first minutes after applying
a voltage....
The most simple idea would be to change the E-caps in the relay delay circuit.

If the amp has only one output relay for both speaker, then I would
suspect more the speaker relay itself.

... or less probable the input selector/volume control etc...

Good luck
Markus
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Old 2nd August 2005, 09:52 PM   #5
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi sollerbeen,
Shut the unit off and remove the top cover. Turn the unit on and lightly tap the relays with a plastic (or similar) rod. The sound shout cut in once you are near the faulty part or connection. You may have to try this a few times.
Relay contacts can oxidize, or get burned a little bit. Or there may be a cracked solder joint. Any switch contact may be suspect so keep an open mind.

-Chris
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Old 3rd August 2005, 11:22 AM   #6
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I think it must be something you guys said, but the fault has now cleared itself! I particularly like Chris' idea of smacking bits with a screwdriver and I think it must have been the sight of me advancing on the amp., soldering iron in one hand, giant screwdriver in the other that persuaded it to mend it's ways. I think I'll take the opportunity to study the schematic and get to know the innards a bit better. Trouble is the sound is so good I don't really want to mess with it.

I've got a nice old Trio KA 4002 with a faulty mains switch and a slight hum at low volume, so I think I'll give that a bit of a seeing-to instead.

Anyway, thanks for the advice.

Cheers

Neil
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Old 3rd August 2005, 10:01 PM   #7
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi Neil,
No, I said use a non-conductive rod. What you are talking about is called an "attitude adjuster". It is used on some customers and service department heads.

-Chris
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Old 3rd August 2005, 11:34 PM   #8
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ChocoHolic -

" Post #4 If this amp has two separate speaker relays with seperate control circuits for the speakers, then I would guess that the reason is more in the relay control circuit.
May be one of the delay caps (mostly E-caps) got old and
has a high leakage current. Leakage current of E-caps
is typically decreasing during the first minutes after applying
a voltage....
The most simple idea would be to change the E-caps in the relay delay circuit.

If the amp has only one output relay for both speaker, then I would
suspect more the speaker relay itself.

... or less probable the input selector/volume control etc...

Good luck
Markus"

i agree with markus, check control circuitry thoroughly resistors, semiconductors etc...

cheers
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Old 4th August 2005, 06:52 PM   #9
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The fault came back. I took Chris' advice and tapped around a bit (with the blunt end of a pen -not a screwdriver!). There is only one relay - I assume this has one actuator and two sets of contacts. It clicks when the red LED turns green- there is no further mechanical sound when the right hand speaker cuts in. Tapping the relay makes no difference to when the channel cuts in, but prodding around the big electrolytics in the centre of the board does seem to get it going. I've yet to work out where they fit into the scheme of things, it's been many years since I've delved into the workings of amplifiers. Thanks for all the comments so far, any further advice or enlightenment would be very welcome.

Neil
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Old 4th August 2005, 08:54 PM   #10
anatech is offline anatech  Canada
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Hi Neil,
Okay, you seem to have bad solder joints. The big caps only give you leverage on the PCB, the the actual bad joint is nearer to one side or edge. Tap around the channel that cuts out. The heavier components are more prone to bad connections, but it could be anywhere.
-Chris
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