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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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I've got to mount some TO-3 devices on my heatsink. The heatsink is pre drilled for TO-3 devices, and also has threaded mounting holes to mount the TO-3 with #6 screws.
The problem is that there are no shoulder washers that fit a TO-3 hole and which are wide enough to pass a #6 screw. All of them are for #4 screws. The heat sink's original use had the TO-3 devices uninsulated from the heat sink with #6 screws. Thus, to insulate the TO-3 from the heatsink, I came up with the idea of making the TO-3 holes bigger- so I can use standard shoulder washers designed for #6 screws. I've got a tiny round hand file and recently borrowed a dremel with lots of attachements/tips, seems like the dremel would do the job a lot easier than hand filing 16 devices. I've go no experience using this except that I know not to apply pressure- let the tool do the work. It has var speed up to 30,000 or 40,000 RPM or so. I've tried this attachment or tip- not sure of the correct name:- All that happens is that the thing wears out as soon as you contact it to metal, even lightly. I'm wondering: (a) will it hurt the transistor to dremel or file its holes to make them larger (will the die detach on the inside of the package?) (b) what dremel tip/attachment would be good for this purpose? Some common ones are here: link to dremel tools/tips thanks |
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#2 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Earth
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Hi Igreen,
Forget that. Oversize the holes and do a deep countersink then add overlength plastic tubing of the right diameter to take your screws. With a bit of care the tubing will take up the space the countersink generates and provides the insulation. A thickwall tubing would be best. Test for no shorts. Not the best but workable at a pinch. Greg |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Quote:
Are you saying to use a countersink bit in a drill to oversize the holes, and then do the rest of the steps you outline? |
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#4 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Earth
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Sorry, I misinterpreted.
You want to use the existing tapped mounting holes on the heatsink, with your #6 screws/ It may not be possible. Something has to give. Maybe you can oversize (drill out) the holes on the To3 case to suit a slightly larger shoulder washer. Or you can lose the threaded holes and drill out the heatsink so you can sleeve and insulate down there. Greg |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Drill the heatsinks straight through on a drill press so the holes are what they would have been if the transistors were mounted with shoulder washers. Mount normally after removing the burrs.
-Chris |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Ampplifierguru
I was thinking about what you said and maybe I misinterpreted. Quote:
But yes, my idea was to make the screw holes on the Transistor larger and use a standard shoulder washer. any other ideas-- no drill press is avail to me. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Widening holes in aluminum is a lot easier with a dremel than trying to clear holes in steel TO3 casings, i think.
Deburring with a Dremel is nice, or drilling holes in pcb's, for steel the power of Dremel's falls short. I blueprinted my alloy TH700 automatic transmission casing with a Dremel, any other stuff i tried gave the same result as you describe: worn bits in 15 seconds. Likely the TO3's will become too hot if you try to widen their holes with a grinding tool, dont think it matters to the Die whether it kills itself or a Dremel bit cooks it. Easiest way without a drill stand,imo, is to widen the holes in the heatsink with a driver and a hammer, with a small block of wood or metal on the other side to keep the pressure in the area of the hole, and grind the edges with the Dremel afterwards. Filing them wider by hand requires vast filing experience, likely that the holes will not line up afterwards. You could ask Magura for ideas, he is a professional toolmaker.
__________________
Looks like Sponge Bob has killed another thread. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Silicon Valley
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Opening up the mounting holes in a TO-3 case might crack the die if done incorrectly. If the heat sink holes are not blind holes, why not just use a long 4-40 screw with nut and washer?
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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For enlarging the holes in the TO-3 I would use a step drill bit or Unibit. That will keep the hole centered and round. As always, clamp the part when drilling sheet metal, especially small parts like a transistor.
Blessings, Terry |
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