what to build with these

moofer · 31st May 2005, 11:12 AM

hey was wondering if any one had schematic or a design that would utilise 8 mj15024 and 8 mj15023 and a +-82v PSU with secondary tails of +-16v presumably for preamp or regulated driver stage any ideas

any help greatly appreciated

moamps · 31st May 2005, 07:11 PM

Maybe Rotel RB1090?
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download...el_rb1090.html

Regards
Milan

amplifierguru · 1st June 2005, 02:12 AM

You could build a Mother of a sub amp (mono) or a 2 channel amp with 4 pairs/channel. These MJ15023/4 have good beta holdup to about 2-3A , so there's 8-12A per channel. Also their SOA at 80V is on 2A which derates the case thermal limit to 160W - a good margin. So if your after an 8 ohm amp you're set. Just need some good drivers. I used to use 2N3584/6421 both TO66 for this purpose and they should easily drive 4 pair. I would use a cfp with 5551/5401 for driver and predriver. Then a LED feedback complementary cascode Vas and dual diff'l input either fet or bjt.

Too easy.

moofer · 3rd June 2005, 07:38 AM

was looking at the following design but would require uprating to use the larger PSU rails was wondering if any one had listening experience with this amp

http://www.alphalink.com.au/~cambie/ETI466Web.htm

amplifierguru · 3rd June 2005, 07:49 AM

Hi moofer,

Sorry can't seem to download schematic. But the advantage you have with this is that you can probably build it from DS, jaycar or Altronics parts!

the designs published are usually flogging some commercial enterprises wares as the primary underlier.

And they say love makes the world go around!

Good luck.

djk · 4th June 2005, 06:23 AM

The 2N3584/6421 are great drivers, but being discontinued are a bit hard to find at reasonable prices.

I would build a Leach.

http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/lowtim/

Only two resistors need be changed to run on the higher voltage, R13 and R14. Add your extra outputs. Change the drivers to the next higher voltage group (250V), MJE15032/33.

moofer · 5th June 2005, 10:49 AM

heard and read lots good things about the leach amps might look into it what the complexity of the build like for the leach amps? .just a heads up all these components are recovered from a dead peavey 8.5c all output transistors desoldered and tested ok. unfortunately the drive stage detonated its transistors .

couldnt capture the blue smoke and save the soul of that amp

djk · 5th June 2005, 06:58 PM

The Leach is easier than the ETI 1466.

The ETI is a CFP design with voltage gain in the output stage, hard to stabilize.

The sonics of the Leach are very , very good. The Peavey will make a good parts doner.

moofer · 7th June 2005, 10:31 AM

will go with the leach.I will be arranging the ordering and the delivery of the components in the next 2 weeks. is there anything else that you guys think i will need to take into account for the uprating of this design(aside from a bigger heatsink

). will also be mounting the ouput transistors in a fan type HS(pic attached) facing each other in a tunnel ram style .
running on the presumption the leach isnt a DIY amp/heating system

.

BobEllis · 7th June 2005, 10:48 AM

In case you missed it, there is a Leach board group buy going on now. http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.p...+PCB+Group+Buy this board is a Jens Rasmussen redesign for Plastic output devices. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...070#post658070 for info

Contact Gengis immediately if you are interested, as he is taking money right now, planning to order on Friday.

Edit:

No, the Leach does not waste a lot of heat. I've got a 4 channel version on one of Apex Jr.'s tunnel heatsinks (about middle of this page http://www.apexjr.com/new.htm - easier to use than the sinks you show for TO-3 devices) that does not need a fan for most home use. It sounds very nice.

31st May 2005, 11:12 AM	#1
moofer diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bay of plenty	what to build with these hey was wondering if any one had schematic or a design that would utilise 8 mj15024 and 8 mj15023 and a +-82v PSU with secondary tails of +-16v presumably for preamp or regulated driver stage any ideas any help greatly appreciated

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31st May 2005, 07:11 PM	#2
moamps diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Croatia	Maybe Rotel RB1090? http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download...el_rb1090.html Regards Milan

1st June 2005, 02:12 AM	#3
amplifierguru Account Disabled Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Earth	You could build a Mother of a sub amp (mono) or a 2 channel amp with 4 pairs/channel. These MJ15023/4 have good beta holdup to about 2-3A , so there's 8-12A per channel. Also their SOA at 80V is on 2A which derates the case thermal limit to 160W - a good margin. So if your after an 8 ohm amp you're set. Just need some good drivers. I used to use 2N3584/6421 both TO66 for this purpose and they should easily drive 4 pair. I would use a cfp with 5551/5401 for driver and predriver. Then a LED feedback complementary cascode Vas and dual diff'l input either fet or bjt. Too easy.

3rd June 2005, 07:38 AM	#4
moofer diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bay of plenty	was looking at the following design but would require uprating to use the larger PSU rails was wondering if any one had listening experience with this amp http://www.alphalink.com.au/~cambie/ETI466Web.htm

3rd June 2005, 07:49 AM	#5
amplifierguru Account Disabled Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Earth	Hi moofer, Sorry can't seem to download schematic. But the advantage you have with this is that you can probably build it from DS, jaycar or Altronics parts! the designs published are usually flogging some commercial enterprises wares as the primary underlier. And they say love makes the world go around! Good luck.

4th June 2005, 06:23 AM	#6
djk diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: USA	The 2N3584/6421 are great drivers, but being discontinued are a bit hard to find at reasonable prices. I would build a Leach. http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/lowtim/ Only two resistors need be changed to run on the higher voltage, R13 and R14. Add your extra outputs. Change the drivers to the next higher voltage group (250V), MJE15032/33.

5th June 2005, 10:49 AM	#7
moofer diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Bay of plenty	heard and read lots good things about the leach amps might look into it what the complexity of the build like for the leach amps? .just a heads up all these components are recovered from a dead peavey 8.5c all output transistors desoldered and tested ok. unfortunately the drive stage detonated its transistors . couldnt capture the blue smoke and save the soul of that amp

5th June 2005, 06:58 PM	#8
djk diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: USA	The Leach is easier than the ETI 1466. The ETI is a CFP design with voltage gain in the output stage, hard to stabilize. The sonics of the Leach are very , very good. The Peavey will make a good parts doner.

7th June 2005, 10:48 AM	#10
BobEllis diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Upstate NY	In case you missed it, there is a Leach board group buy going on now. http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.p...+PCB+Group+Buy this board is a Jens Rasmussen redesign for Plastic output devices. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...070#post658070 for info Contact Gengis immediately if you are interested, as he is taking money right now, planning to order on Friday. Edit: No, the Leach does not waste a lot of heat. I've got a 4 channel version on one of Apex Jr.'s tunnel heatsinks (about middle of this page http://www.apexjr.com/new.htm - easier to use than the sinks you show for TO-3 devices) that does not need a fan for most home use. It sounds very nice.