Realistic STA-7 receiver

rpapps · 15th May 2005, 04:11 AM

Hi all
This receiver developed a bad crackle in one channel which I fixed by replacing the output chip. Now it works OK until it is switched off and then a low frequency oscillation pumps the speaker really hard until the power supply caps discharge after about two seconds.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Rob

Netlist · 15th May 2005, 08:05 AM

Replace D501, D502, D503, D504 in power supply, even if they check good.

/Hugo

rpapps · 16th May 2005, 12:00 AM

Hi Hugo
Thanks for the reply.
Wouldn't a power supply problem affect both channels?
My fault is in one channel only.
Cheers
Rob

anatech · 16th May 2005, 12:11 AM

Hi rpapps,
Interesting problem. Was the chip an exact replacement? I mean the exact same part number - no subs or replacement brand. What was the chip number?

It sounds like the on board muting is not happening if this chip has it. A leaky cap used as a DC block may cause this also.

-Chris

rpapps · 16th May 2005, 01:47 AM

Hi Anatech
I'm not at home right now.
I'll post chip info later.
Thanks for your help.
Rob

Netlist · 16th May 2005, 06:57 AM

This info comes from an paper lying around here, I have no experience with the amplifier. It also says to check for a short or nearly short between pin 1 & 3 of the output IC's. It's not a big deal to change four diodes, one never knows.

/Hugo

anatech · 16th May 2005, 07:51 PM

Hi Rob,
Asked a friend about your amp. The original chip is HA-1370 - NLA. Check the solder connections and traces for one. Check the 1uF coupling caps, actually, remove both to see if the fault remains.

-Chris

rpapps · 17th May 2005, 01:26 AM

Hi Chris & Hugo
The replacement chip is a genuine Hitachi HA-1370.
There is a swith-on muting circuit but it is common to both channels.

I have replaced the power supply diodes and checked all capacitors with an ESR meter. Even after >20 years, they still read good as new. (I hate to throw anything away)

I've gone over the board with a magnifing glass looking for dry joints or cracked tracks.
I guess the next step is to order another replacement chip.
Thanks for all your input.
Cheers
Rob

anatech · 17th May 2005, 01:49 AM

Hi Rob,
Just for chuckes and grins, pull the 1uF input coupling caps out and try it. They may still be leaky. I use a $6500.00 HP LCR meter to check caps, I don't trust anything less anymore. Your ESR meter may not catch leakage in high impedance circuits.

Besides, caps are cheaper than chips.

-Chris

15th May 2005, 04:11 AM	#1
rpapps diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: nowhere of interest	Realistic STA-7 receiver Hi all This receiver developed a bad crackle in one channel which I fixed by replacing the output chip. Now it works OK until it is switched off and then a low frequency oscillation pumps the speaker really hard until the power supply caps discharge after about two seconds. Any suggestions? Thanks Rob

16th May 2005, 12:00 AM	#3
rpapps diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: nowhere of interest	STA-7 Hi Hugo Thanks for the reply. Wouldn't a power supply problem affect both channels? My fault is in one channel only. Cheers Rob

16th May 2005, 01:47 AM	#5
rpapps diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: nowhere of interest	STA-7 Hi Anatech I'm not at home right now. I'll post chip info later. Thanks for your help. Rob

17th May 2005, 01:26 AM	#8
rpapps diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: nowhere of interest	STA-7 Hi Chris & Hugo The replacement chip is a genuine Hitachi HA-1370. There is a swith-on muting circuit but it is common to both channels. I have replaced the power supply diodes and checked all capacitors with an ESR meter. Even after >20 years, they still read good as new. (I hate to throw anything away) I've gone over the board with a magnifing glass looking for dry joints or cracked tracks. I guess the next step is to order another replacement chip. Thanks for all your input. Cheers Rob

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15th May 2005, 08:05 AM	#2
Netlist diyAudio Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2003	Replace D501, D502, D503, D504 in power supply, even if they check good. /Hugo

16th May 2005, 12:11 AM	#4
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Hi rpapps, Interesting problem. Was the chip an exact replacement? I mean the exact same part number - no subs or replacement brand. What was the chip number? It sounds like the on board muting is not happening if this chip has it. A leaky cap used as a DC block may cause this also. -Chris

16th May 2005, 06:57 AM	#6
Netlist diyAudio Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2003	This info comes from an paper lying around here, I have no experience with the amplifier. It also says to check for a short or nearly short between pin 1 & 3 of the output IC's. It's not a big deal to change four diodes, one never knows. /Hugo

16th May 2005, 07:51 PM	#7
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Hi Rob, Asked a friend about your amp. The original chip is HA-1370 - NLA. Check the solder connections and traces for one. Check the 1uF coupling caps, actually, remove both to see if the fault remains. -Chris

17th May 2005, 01:49 AM	#9
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Hi Rob, Just for chuckes and grins, pull the 1uF input coupling caps out and try it. They may still be leaky. I use a $6500.00 HP LCR meter to check caps, I don't trust anything less anymore. Your ESR meter may not catch leakage in high impedance circuits. Besides, caps are cheaper than chips. -Chris

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