SUBWOOFER AMP box

crumvoc · 6th May 2005, 11:04 PM

Is there any reason why a builder can't just build a separate box for a plate amp, apart from the sub, and then cable to the sub. That way you could easily use the same amp for different subs, just by plugging it into the one you want to use?

Stocker · 6th May 2005, 11:57 PM

I did this. It looks better and sounds better. The amp used to hmmmmmmm at 60hz when it was on. I was able to relocate the transformer relative to the PCB which was the problem. I also upgraded the power supply section. I added about 5000uF to the 4700uF that was already there. If I remember correctly I also snubberized it before it became popular here

. Additionally I put beefier heatsinking on the driver and output devices.

No more HMMMMM when the amp turns on, and the heatsinking only gets a little warm when it's run hard.

My box is a 7" square of wood from the front, with an LED to indicate "on".

Go for it. Be careful not to zap the circuits with static electricity and be sure the wires are not touching where they should not.

And post photos.

cunningham · 8th May 2005, 08:46 AM

I think it is cheaper to get more reliability from the circuit if it is seperate from the speaker box, espeacially a sub. There is a little thing called vibrations that come from a sub box that can shake a circuit apart physically unless more effort is put in the circuit construction, mounting and vibration absorbtion. Hope you don't have any resonant frequencies.

.

It can obviously be done, but perhaps at greater cost?

6th May 2005, 11:04 PM	#1
crumvoc diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: idaho	SUBWOOFER AMP box Is there any reason why a builder can't just build a separate box for a plate amp, apart from the sub, and then cable to the sub. That way you could easily use the same amp for different subs, just by plugging it into the one you want to use?

6th May 2005, 11:57 PM	#2
Stocker diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Austin	I did this. It looks better and sounds better. The amp used to hmmmmmmm at 60hz when it was on. I was able to relocate the transformer relative to the PCB which was the problem. I also upgraded the power supply section. I added about 5000uF to the 4700uF that was already there. If I remember correctly I also snubberized it before it became popular here . Additionally I put beefier heatsinking on the driver and output devices. No more HMMMMM when the amp turns on, and the heatsinking only gets a little warm when it's run hard. My box is a 7" square of wood from the front, with an LED to indicate "on". Go for it. Be careful not to zap the circuits with static electricity and be sure the wires are not touching where they should not. And post photos. __________________ Jesus loves you.

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8th May 2005, 08:46 AM	#3
cunningham diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Knoxville	I think it is cheaper to get more reliability from the circuit if it is seperate from the speaker box, espeacially a sub. There is a little thing called vibrations that come from a sub box that can shake a circuit apart physically unless more effort is put in the circuit construction, mounting and vibration absorbtion. Hope you don't have any resonant frequencies. . It can obviously be done, but perhaps at greater cost?