Join the Super Leach arena

bigpanda · 12th April 2005, 04:56 AM

Hi,

Having finish the ETI-466, I would like to start the Super Leach. I had gone thru the pcb suggested by Prof. Leach some time ago and when I first saw it, I have the same worry as many of you had : thin traces for the +ve, -ve, grd. I had one further worry, too many connecting wires. The more connecting wires, the more chances of making errors, interference etc, etc¡K. (hope that don¡¦t cause any hard feeling to anyone)

What I had in mind is that I would try to put the 8 output TO3s and the 8x5W resistor on another board, tagging others along. Trying to reduce the no. of connecting wires between the 2 boards I can get myself out of a lot of trouble. To make them as close as possible, I intend to put the 2 boards on top of each other, with the component side facing each other, keeping a distance of about say 1.5 ¡V 2 in with two heatsinks running along sides of the boards not just for thermal dissipation also for mechanical support. The aerial clearance for the input board is about 1 in. while that for the output board is about 0.5 in. I would use metal post to connect the +ve, -ve, grd between the two boards. Would that be a potential problem? I am stuck with the board-to-board connectors. With my layout, I had another 6 connections between the two boards. I am thinking of using molex connectors (the little white ones we see in our computer for connecting cooling fans). Or I can use none stranded wire connecting the two connecting pads when they can be aligned.

Sorry Jens, your design is excellent but I just want to use the TO3s I had on hand instead of buying new ¡¥plastics¡¦. If anyone is starting from scratch, you should get Jens pcb. With my layout, you can still DIY your own board (single side). Of course, there would be a lot of drilling for the aluminum brackets.

bigpanda · 13th April 2005, 02:39 AM

This is the slightly redo of Prof. Leach's pcb

bigpanda · 13th April 2005, 02:42 AM

This is the slightly redo of Prof. Leach's pcb

Sorry, didn't attach the file

bigpanda · 13th April 2005, 02:43 AM

The input part

bigpanda · 13th April 2005, 02:45 AM

The output part

Is this feasible? I am worried the grounding. Any suggestion?

amplifierguru · 13th April 2005, 03:04 AM

BigPanda,

Why you do skinny supply tracks on o/p board? You have so much room. Remember more copper less etchant. Why waste what you've got?

kiwi_abroad · 13th April 2005, 06:48 AM

Hi,
What software did you use to produce those outputs? Very nice looking.

Adrian

bigpanda · 13th April 2005, 08:51 AM

Hi amplifierguru,

Tks for the tip, any other thing I can do better

Adrian,

Forget about the software, it gives out radius instead of diameter for the gerber drill file. Some traces are missing from the gerber. The bottom resist layer was unprintable. For simple circuits like amplifiers, one might still be able to check the gerber but if you are doing for something else, I wonder how that can be done. If you are using it for home-brew, its ok. But if you are using it for fab-house, might as well forget it.

amplifierguru · 14th April 2005, 01:06 AM

Hi Panda,

I'm sorry I don't know the circuit or your track currents/supplies connections so cannot comment much without them.

If you need to beef up supply tracks you can solder tack desoldering wick strategically although it might look messy.
It can lower R and L of high current tracks.

bigpanda · 20th June 2005, 12:19 PM

Finalising the boards :

This is the main

12th April 2005, 04:56 AM	#1
bigpanda diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: HKSAR	Join the Super Leach arena Hi, Having finish the ETI-466, I would like to start the Super Leach. I had gone thru the pcb suggested by Prof. Leach some time ago and when I first saw it, I have the same worry as many of you had : thin traces for the +ve, -ve, grd. I had one further worry, too many connecting wires. The more connecting wires, the more chances of making errors, interference etc, etc¡K. (hope that don¡¦t cause any hard feeling to anyone) What I had in mind is that I would try to put the 8 output TO3s and the 8x5W resistor on another board, tagging others along. Trying to reduce the no. of connecting wires between the 2 boards I can get myself out of a lot of trouble. To make them as close as possible, I intend to put the 2 boards on top of each other, with the component side facing each other, keeping a distance of about say 1.5 ¡V 2 in with two heatsinks running along sides of the boards not just for thermal dissipation also for mechanical support. The aerial clearance for the input board is about 1 in. while that for the output board is about 0.5 in. I would use metal post to connect the +ve, -ve, grd between the two boards. Would that be a potential problem? I am stuck with the board-to-board connectors. With my layout, I had another 6 connections between the two boards. I am thinking of using molex connectors (the little white ones we see in our computer for connecting cooling fans). Or I can use none stranded wire connecting the two connecting pads when they can be aligned. Sorry Jens, your design is excellent but I just want to use the TO3s I had on hand instead of buying new ¡¥plastics¡¦. If anyone is starting from scratch, you should get Jens pcb. With my layout, you can still DIY your own board (single side). Of course, there would be a lot of drilling for the aluminum brackets.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
High Current Leach/leach super amp	bowdown	Solid State	41	2nd March 2011 02:15 PM
Leach Super Amp HELP ...	Ahmad_tbp	Solid State	22	28th December 2009 05:44 AM
leach super amp with +/- 78V	lenti	Solid State	1	21st July 2002 03:00 PM
I need some help with super Leach amp!	supernet	Solid State	5	22nd April 2002 09:27 PM
Leach amp vs super Leach amp	supernet	Solid State	0	21st February 2002 10:16 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

13th April 2005, 02:39 AM	#2
bigpanda diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: HKSAR	This is the slightly redo of Prof. Leach's pcb

13th April 2005, 03:04 AM	#6
amplifierguru Account Disabled Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Earth	BigPanda, Why you do skinny supply tracks on o/p board? You have so much room. Remember more copper less etchant. Why waste what you've got?

13th April 2005, 06:48 AM	#7
kiwi_abroad diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Wellington, New Zealand	Hi, What software did you use to produce those outputs? Very nice looking. Adrian

13th April 2005, 08:51 AM	#8
bigpanda diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: HKSAR	Hi amplifierguru, Tks for the tip, any other thing I can do better Adrian, Forget about the software, it gives out radius instead of diameter for the gerber drill file. Some traces are missing from the gerber. The bottom resist layer was unprintable. For simple circuits like amplifiers, one might still be able to check the gerber but if you are doing for something else, I wonder how that can be done. If you are using it for home-brew, its ok. But if you are using it for fab-house, might as well forget it.

14th April 2005, 01:06 AM	#9
amplifierguru Account Disabled Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Earth	Hi Panda, I'm sorry I don't know the circuit or your track currents/supplies connections so cannot comment much without them. If you need to beef up supply tracks you can solder tack desoldering wick strategically although it might look messy. It can lower R and L of high current tracks.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)