Hi,
Having finish the ETI-466, I would like to start the Super Leach. I had gone thru the pcb suggested by Prof. Leach some time ago and when I first saw it, I have the same worry as many of you had : thin traces for the +ve, -ve, grd. I had one further worry, too many connecting wires. The more connecting wires, the more chances of making errors, interference etc, etc¡K. (hope that don¡¦t cause any hard feeling to anyone)
What I had in mind is that I would try to put the 8 output TO3s and the 8x5W resistor on another board, tagging others along. Trying to reduce the no. of connecting wires between the 2 boards I can get myself out of a lot of trouble. To make them as close as possible, I intend to put the 2 boards on top of each other, with the component side facing each other, keeping a distance of about say 1.5 ¡V 2 in with two heatsinks running along sides of the boards not just for thermal dissipation also for mechanical support. The aerial clearance for the input board is about 1 in. while that for the output board is about 0.5 in. I would use metal post to connect the +ve, -ve, grd between the two boards. Would that be a potential problem? I am stuck with the board-to-board connectors. With my layout, I had another 6 connections between the two boards. I am thinking of using molex connectors (the little white ones we see in our computer for connecting cooling fans). Or I can use none stranded wire connecting the two connecting pads when they can be aligned.
Sorry Jens, your design is excellent but I just want to use the TO3s I had on hand instead of buying new ¡¥plastics¡¦. If anyone is starting from scratch, you should get Jens pcb. With my layout, you can still DIY your own board (single side). Of course, there would be a lot of drilling for the aluminum brackets.
Having finish the ETI-466, I would like to start the Super Leach. I had gone thru the pcb suggested by Prof. Leach some time ago and when I first saw it, I have the same worry as many of you had : thin traces for the +ve, -ve, grd. I had one further worry, too many connecting wires. The more connecting wires, the more chances of making errors, interference etc, etc¡K. (hope that don¡¦t cause any hard feeling to anyone)
What I had in mind is that I would try to put the 8 output TO3s and the 8x5W resistor on another board, tagging others along. Trying to reduce the no. of connecting wires between the 2 boards I can get myself out of a lot of trouble. To make them as close as possible, I intend to put the 2 boards on top of each other, with the component side facing each other, keeping a distance of about say 1.5 ¡V 2 in with two heatsinks running along sides of the boards not just for thermal dissipation also for mechanical support. The aerial clearance for the input board is about 1 in. while that for the output board is about 0.5 in. I would use metal post to connect the +ve, -ve, grd between the two boards. Would that be a potential problem? I am stuck with the board-to-board connectors. With my layout, I had another 6 connections between the two boards. I am thinking of using molex connectors (the little white ones we see in our computer for connecting cooling fans). Or I can use none stranded wire connecting the two connecting pads when they can be aligned.
Sorry Jens, your design is excellent but I just want to use the TO3s I had on hand instead of buying new ¡¥plastics¡¦. If anyone is starting from scratch, you should get Jens pcb. With my layout, you can still DIY your own board (single side). Of course, there would be a lot of drilling for the aluminum brackets.
Hi amplifierguru,
Tks for the tip, any other thing I can do better
Adrian,
Forget about the software, it gives out radius instead of diameter for the gerber drill file. Some traces are missing from the gerber. The bottom resist layer was unprintable. For simple circuits like amplifiers, one might still be able to check the gerber but if you are doing for something else, I wonder how that can be done. If you are using it for home-brew, its ok. But if you are using it for fab-house, might as well forget it.
Tks for the tip, any other thing I can do better
Adrian,
Forget about the software, it gives out radius instead of diameter for the gerber drill file. Some traces are missing from the gerber. The bottom resist layer was unprintable. For simple circuits like amplifiers, one might still be able to check the gerber but if you are doing for something else, I wonder how that can be done. If you are using it for home-brew, its ok. But if you are using it for fab-house, might as well forget it.
Five days and absolute silence.
It could mean one of the following three :
1. The idea is so perfect that nothing better could be done (I don't think this is the case. If that is, should I get applause?)
2. The idea sucks so badly that any help will be effortless.
3. The user is so irritating that no one would like to point him the right way
I think I am probably not in cat 1 and I surely hope that 2 or 3 is not happening. So guys, throw me a line.
It could mean one of the following three :
1. The idea is so perfect that nothing better could be done (I don't think this is the case. If that is, should I get applause?)
2. The idea sucks so badly that any help will be effortless.
3. The user is so irritating that no one would like to point him the right way
I think I am probably not in cat 1 and I surely hope that 2 or 3 is not happening. So guys, throw me a line.
Hi Grey,
It's ok to speak up what you are thinking of. We are all open to everything here in this forum, right guys.
After I got hold of my 2n3439 and 2n5416, I'll start searching the caps and some of the big resistors. In the mean time, I can start making the boards but I would like to get more ideas or suggestions from others. One could never spot his own mistake. If he can, he would not have made it in the first place.
Tony,
I think you mean to say more O/P transistors, right? I can try laying out the boards but I don't know how to modify the schematics. Would you like to modify the circuits and send me a copy so that I can think of the new layout. This one is going to be tough work because the way Mr. Leach designed it. He is not just simply paralelling out the O/Ps. But I like to try. I think the board is going to get too long. Now is 5.3", it will be around 3" more for every pair added. I am worried about the heatsink. I found something (maybe everybody notice it already) about the heatsink and I think I would start another thread on that.
I am blind (like you say in your slogan) but I am trying to learn but very slooooooooooowly. I guess I am just too old to do so.
It's ok to speak up what you are thinking of. We are all open to everything here in this forum, right guys.
After I got hold of my 2n3439 and 2n5416, I'll start searching the caps and some of the big resistors. In the mean time, I can start making the boards but I would like to get more ideas or suggestions from others. One could never spot his own mistake. If he can, he would not have made it in the first place.
Tony,
I think you mean to say more O/P transistors, right? I can try laying out the boards but I don't know how to modify the schematics. Would you like to modify the circuits and send me a copy so that I can think of the new layout. This one is going to be tough work because the way Mr. Leach designed it. He is not just simply paralelling out the O/Ps. But I like to try. I think the board is going to get too long. Now is 5.3", it will be around 3" more for every pair added. I am worried about the heatsink. I found something (maybe everybody notice it already) about the heatsink and I think I would start another thread on that.
I am blind (like you say in your slogan) but I am trying to learn but very slooooooooooowly. I guess I am just too old to do so.
Hi,
maybe you don't like the Gerber outputs but you sure can produce nice layouts.
Where is the NFB from output to driver board?
Is it P at extreme left or
Is it the spare hole next to the left leg of the inductor?
Next to the inductor is far better!
Then you can delete P hole.
Your output connections always show multi holes, why?
You WILL be returning the speaker direct to the central star ground.
On your input board you have 2 Signal ground holes. I think you need 3. One each for signal ground to input RCA, to central star ground, input resistor.
The matching hole for NFB could be moved to middle of the track below output board.
How about bedugging and repair? It would be easier if the board could be folded apart to gain access to both sides for measurements and/or soldering. Use small gauge multi-strand wires and nylon posts at the corners.
maybe you don't like the Gerber outputs but you sure can produce nice layouts.
Where is the NFB from output to driver board?
Is it P at extreme left or
Is it the spare hole next to the left leg of the inductor?
Next to the inductor is far better!
Then you can delete P hole.
Your output connections always show multi holes, why?
You WILL be returning the speaker direct to the central star ground.
On your input board you have 2 Signal ground holes. I think you need 3. One each for signal ground to input RCA, to central star ground, input resistor.
The matching hole for NFB could be moved to middle of the track below output board.
How about bedugging and repair? It would be easier if the board could be folded apart to gain access to both sides for measurements and/or soldering. Use small gauge multi-strand wires and nylon posts at the corners.
Hi Andrew,
I did not miss the NFB circuits, its on the main board, about the same position as in Mr. Leach's pcb.
The 2x'Gd', '+V', '-V', 'P' pts are connection between the two boards. Of course they can be connected to outside also (expect the 'P'). Here I am concentrating on how to put the OPs on another board, reducing the # of wires (and length of wires) betweent he main board and the outputs.
This could be a problem for accessing and repair since one board is on top of the other.
Tony,
I am still waiting for your schematic
I did not miss the NFB circuits, its on the main board, about the same position as in Mr. Leach's pcb.
The 2x'Gd', '+V', '-V', 'P' pts are connection between the two boards. Of course they can be connected to outside also (expect the 'P'). Here I am concentrating on how to put the OPs on another board, reducing the # of wires (and length of wires) betweent he main board and the outputs.
This could be a problem for accessing and repair since one board is on top of the other.
Tony,
I am still waiting for your schematic
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