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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mars
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I've been sort strugging with this. Perhaps the knowledgable people here can throw a tip... Gonna make a 1/4" thick
aluminum plate (18"W x 65"H) and use it as a faceplate (attached to the MDF front baffle) for my tower speaker project. But aluminum looks boring, so why not chrome it? I don't know if I need to specify copper/nickel/chrome or nickel/chrome or should I just make my artwork Plating: Chrome and let them figure it out ? The next part is what thickness for a nice mirror finish with some stratch resistance. I hear .01 - 0.1 mils is common for decorative chrome and 1mil and greater is defined as hard chrome. hmmm.. I don't want it too thin..... Initial thoughts are to specify 1 mil minimum, 5 mils max and let the platers figure it out ? Might as well make it "beefy" ? Gonna have my speaker box painted black with laquer, trying for the legendary piano black "look".. not as elegant as the Zoolander "blue steel" look or "magnum", but chrome will suffice - hehe |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mars
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At least say "Hello", is anyone out there? lol
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Columbus, Ohio
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Hi thylantyr,
Might try posting this in a different forum, this is the solid state forum. Don't know nothing about metal plating, but I'll bet if you look in your local yellow pages under "chrome plating" you will find people that do this for a living. If all else fails there is always google. An alternative you might what to consider is getting it nickel plated. This has a less in your face look than chrome, that might be more appealing. Phil |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Hi thylantyr
Probably no one knows the answer, but that's the good thing about these forums, no one will waste your time giving useless advice about things they know nothing about!
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Scandinavia
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How about traditional silver plating .... I know this works since I enquired with local silver platers about this 4 years ago.
For a one-off this is probably not more expensive. It "wears better", but Chrome is harder and less prone to corrosion. Petter |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Harlowton, MT, USA
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Uh, I thought I posted here. What happened? Just wondering.
__________________
- "With power amplifiers, negative feedback is a good thing, and positive feedback can induce destructive oscillation, but with people, positive feedback is a good thing, and negative feedback can induce destructive oscillation" |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Thylantyr,
Contact a specialist plating firm. It can be done quite easily and yield excellent results. Tell them what you're trying to accomplish and let them decide on the specifics of the process and the thickness of the plating required for your application. I have had some smallish parts machined and chromed to use in a small remote robot, as reflectors for the lights I used in it. In Australia, there is a place that takes a motorcycle wheel, buffs it to remove the sand casting marks, preps and plates it for $A330 for a 17" x 6.5" wheel, a heck of a lot bigger and more complex project then you want to do. It's as tough as nuts too. When you get it done, please post a pic, I'd love to see how it looks. HTH Cheers Brett |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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take a gander through a copy of "Hemmings" magazine -- lists hundreds of places which do chroming, metal refab etc.
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