Hello all,
Does anyone know of any fake Renesas/Hitachi semi's?
The reason I ask is that I got these from a UK distributor for around 1/2 the price everywhere else was selling them. I haven't seen any confirmed genuine SK1058 or SJ162 so was wondering if somebody could have a quick look at these pictures to see if they bear any resemblance to your own.
Note on the SJ162 there is a small Hitachi logo, yet on the SK1058 there isn't. I've checked the writing to see if its laser etched and whilst you can remove the grey ink you can still read the etching in the right light, meaning is physically burnt into the plastic and looks neat and tidy.
To the rear there appears to be glue residue on the joint between the case and the back plate. Is this normal on your genuine part?
Thanks
Ant
Does anyone know of any fake Renesas/Hitachi semi's?
The reason I ask is that I got these from a UK distributor for around 1/2 the price everywhere else was selling them. I haven't seen any confirmed genuine SK1058 or SJ162 so was wondering if somebody could have a quick look at these pictures to see if they bear any resemblance to your own.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Note on the SJ162 there is a small Hitachi logo, yet on the SK1058 there isn't. I've checked the writing to see if its laser etched and whilst you can remove the grey ink you can still read the etching in the right light, meaning is physically burnt into the plastic and looks neat and tidy.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
To the rear there appears to be glue residue on the joint between the case and the back plate. Is this normal on your genuine part?
Thanks
Ant
Curiosity got the better of me 
I decided that I'd rather kill £4 worth of semi conductor than my speaker or other components.
This is a picture of a 2SK1058 that I've just cracked open:
The die size is 4mm squared. Does this sound about right?
I decided that I'd rather kill £4 worth of semi conductor than my speaker or other components.
This is a picture of a 2SK1058 that I've just cracked open:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The die size is 4mm squared. Does this sound about right?
Ant,
If it is ink marked, then it is not laser marked.
I would be suspicious of the one without a logo as
companies virtually always put on a logo of some sorts
unless the part is physically too small. But then, I doubt
any pirates would have any ethical issues with putting
on logos...
I know for a fact that if you buy between 300 and 400
in the USA, you can get these for about $3 ea. There
are several legitimate people in the USA who sell
to hobbyists for about $8 ea.
I spend most of my time with ICs, so I can't really say
for certain if the size die you see is smaller than it
should be. I do know that lateral MOSFETs are quite
a bit larger than a comparably rated vertical MOSFET
(i.e., International Rectifier)
Sorry I can't be more helpful
If it is ink marked, then it is not laser marked.
I would be suspicious of the one without a logo as
companies virtually always put on a logo of some sorts
unless the part is physically too small. But then, I doubt
any pirates would have any ethical issues with putting
on logos...
I know for a fact that if you buy between 300 and 400
in the USA, you can get these for about $3 ea. There
are several legitimate people in the USA who sell
to hobbyists for about $8 ea.
I spend most of my time with ICs, so I can't really say
for certain if the size die you see is smaller than it
should be. I do know that lateral MOSFETs are quite
a bit larger than a comparably rated vertical MOSFET
(i.e., International Rectifier)
Sorry I can't be more helpful
I picked up a bunch of purported 2SJ162s from Electronic Goldmine that look almost exactly like the units pictured in this thread. All markings are laser-etched, which means you have to have the part slantwise in strong light in order to read what's there. A suspicious person whould check to make sure these aren't bipolars marked as MOSFETs. The gate to source should read open with a VOM, and there should be a diode junction reading with the VOM connected from drain to source and the gate to source shorted together. I just did so with one of the devices. The gate to source reads open like it should, but the intrinsic diode reads like an N-Channel device. I checked with a real diode just to make sure of the VOM polarity. I must conclude that the devices I have are fakes, re-marked N-channel vertical devices.
I have to take the above statement back, as I just checked the 2SJ162 pinout. The source is the tab/center lead, thus the devices could be p-channel as marked and may be legit. Now all I need to do is to find some 1058s to snuggle up next to them....
I have to take the above statement back, as I just checked the 2SJ162 pinout. The source is the tab/center lead, thus the devices could be p-channel as marked and may be legit. Now all I need to do is to find some 1058s to snuggle up next to them....
i've just recieved some k1058 C-channel which seems to be fakes. pinout is wrong, pin2 is drain not source, pin3 is source not drain ( housing is drain ) ...or is it a P-channel with wrong id ?.
I've done a simple test with 12 vdc ps and a 12 v lamp and normaly these mosfets will open and stay open just by touching the gate ...but these i've just recieved will barely open ...i had to open them with a 1 k resistor ...and even there they can't deliver full voltage.
where do i find for real k1058's ...not fakes ?
I've done a simple test with 12 vdc ps and a 12 v lamp and normaly these mosfets will open and stay open just by touching the gate ...but these i've just recieved will barely open ...i had to open them with a 1 k resistor ...and even there they can't deliver full voltage.
where do i find for real k1058's ...not fakes ?
The very first thing to check with K1058/J162 as with other lateral MOSFETs is whether the source is on the center pin. Only lateral MOSFETs have that pinout. If not - fake.
Second, connecting drain to gate and using a diode test from drain to source whould produce a voltage drop cequal to the treshold voltage, and this should be a value around 1-1/4V (less is possible). If it is around 3V then it's a fake IRF/IRFP type device masquerading as a lateral MOSFET.
Second, connecting drain to gate and using a diode test from drain to source whould produce a voltage drop cequal to the treshold voltage, and this should be a value around 1-1/4V (less is possible). If it is around 3V then it's a fake IRF/IRFP type device masquerading as a lateral MOSFET.
hi ilimzn, thx for answering
i've done some measurements after your advice and they turns out to be around 0,4 - 0,5 v for the fake ones and they're only leading in one direction ( drain>source ) with diodetest between drain and source. measurements of an older batch i've got in stock ( orig. hitachi's ) shows around 0,2 - 0,3 v, but they're leading in both directions ( source>drain and drain>source ) when using the diodetest between drain and source.
weird compaired !
i've done some measurements after your advice and they turns out to be around 0,4 - 0,5 v for the fake ones and they're only leading in one direction ( drain>source ) with diodetest between drain and source. measurements of an older batch i've got in stock ( orig. hitachi's ) shows around 0,2 - 0,3 v, but they're leading in both directions ( source>drain and drain>source ) when using the diodetest between drain and source.
weird compaired !
You can buy from Electronic Parts Online Store - Tayda Electronics price $4.99, I bought from there few years back.
hi thimios & sonal kunal
i'm happy to hear that. i've been ebay shopping with tayda2009 before and then i got some good k1058. i didn't make a deal there this time because the picture of the k1058 in his store was changed to a noname.
could you please help tell me what code figuring on the k1058 you've got ? so i not will get some fakes again. i want the good ones.
ex.
k1058
9A2
50BB
or
k1058
12D1
i'm happy to hear that. i've been ebay shopping with tayda2009 before and then i got some good k1058. i didn't make a deal there this time because the picture of the k1058 in his store was changed to a noname.
could you please help tell me what code figuring on the k1058 you've got ? so i not will get some fakes again. i want the good ones.
ex.
k1058
9A2
50BB
or
k1058
12D1
Keep in mind that the voltage used by the DVM is enough to sufficiently bias the MOSFET into cunduction just by loading the gate capacitance. Because it's very high impedance, it will hold the charge for quite a while after that and if you measure D-S without doing anything to touch the G lead, you might measure conduction between D-S in both directions. You can test this by doing a diode test one way between S-G and then testing for conduction between D-S, and then doing the diode test the other way (oposite polarity) and again testing for conduction D-S. You should get conduction D-S both ways in one case, and only one way (D-S doby diode) the other way. This is one more way to test that it is indeed a proper MOSFET.
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