Okay, okay...

Bogie · 23rd February 2005, 02:23 AM

Some of you folks are making me feel downright inadequate...

About all I've used a multimeter for in the past has been checking continuity on network cabling...

So, what's a good, yet cost effective, digital multimeter?

Leolabs · 23rd February 2005, 02:27 AM

Thing with eeee sound is quite good for checking continuityDoesnt care whether it is analog or digital.

anatech · 23rd February 2005, 02:46 AM

Depends on how much faith you put in your readings and how old the meter will be before you replace it.
There are many good reasons to buy a Fluke. I used to calibrate and optimize all makes. If you can afford it, buy a Fluke. Period.
-Chris

anatech · 23rd February 2005, 02:54 AM

I just thought of something. We all started with something. Make the best of what you have, but understand the limitations of your meter. I started with a neon test light, and my finger. Meter good, finger bad in a tube amp. I have watched stuff explode, sometimes for fun. Those were the days.
Ever work on a five tube radio? They are fun. The chassis is live. The young tech is still alive, but jittery. The boss is laughing. That's why the service area can't be seen by the customer.
Just be safe and know your gear. Ask for help. Don't get shocked.

-Chris

Stocker · 23rd February 2005, 03:23 AM

For most DIY / hobby work a cheapie multimeter will do you just fine. In my company's calibration labs, the meters cost well in excess of a thousand dollars. For a serious hobbyist, spending a couple hundred dollars will be a good idea. For a beginner who is strapped for cash, at least try to spend more than $20. My wife got me a (non-fluke! ) DVM for Christmas last year. I took it in to work and it reads the same as our $$$$ meters. Close enough for me.

If you have any aspirations to get deep into stuff, you may want to consider a meter with capacitance, inductance and transistor testers, but these can all be obtained as required later, as standalone devices that can do a much better job. At least get several ranges (or autorange) of voltage DC and AC, resistance, and current AC and DC, along with a diode/continuity checker/beeper.

anatech · 24th February 2005, 01:07 AM

Hi Stocker,
You actually got a non-Fluke that was in tolerance? What brand was it? Just curious. My experience is that Flukes are almost the only ones that will hold their calibration.
Another important point. Fluke is almost the only handheld meter that gives meaningful readings at 1KHz and above. Other meters can only be trusted at 60 Hz. 120Hz is pushing it. I would tend to trust an HP, Extech (I think that's their name) is total garbage, stay away.
-Chris

murat · 24th February 2005, 02:09 AM

It is definetly the one below. I have been using a pair of them for a couple of years. It reads 0.1 mV and 0.1 muA. I checked the voltmeter against Fluke and the agreement is around %1. It will read 3 1/2 digits ie 199.9 for any thing.For years, time to time I see this thing on sale for $ 4-5!!. This guys sell cheap stuff but everything I bought from them worked reasonably well - for the money paid just excellent.

Cheers

Murat

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92020

murat · 24th February 2005, 02:16 AM

Actually mine is this one with backlight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30756

Bogie · 24th February 2005, 03:13 AM

Okay - I'm gonna pick one of those up.

Why?

The folks have reverse engineered some chips, circuits and programs, and costs about the same to RE something expensive as it does to RE something cheap. I like _some_ HF tools - but I'll never trust their calipers or micrometers...

BrianDonegan · 24th February 2005, 03:22 AM

Not sure what your budget is like, but I would recommend a Fluke 112. Not very expensive ($120-$150 US) but measures capacitance and frequency in addition to the basics. It's small, autoranging, and bomb-proof.

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...?lookup=FLU112

They sell it at Amazon too for about 140.

23rd February 2005, 02:23 AM	#1
Bogie diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: St. Louis	Okay, okay... Some of you folks are making me feel downright inadequate... About all I've used a multimeter for in the past has been checking continuity on network cabling... So, what's a good, yet cost effective, digital multimeter?

23rd February 2005, 03:23 AM	#5
Stocker diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Austin	For most DIY / hobby work a cheapie multimeter will do you just fine. In my company's calibration labs, the meters cost well in excess of a thousand dollars. For a serious hobbyist, spending a couple hundred dollars will be a good idea. For a beginner who is strapped for cash, at least try to spend more than $20. My wife got me a (non-fluke! ) DVM for Christmas last year. I took it in to work and it reads the same as our $$$$ meters. Close enough for me. If you have any aspirations to get deep into stuff, you may want to consider a meter with capacitance, inductance and transistor testers, but these can all be obtained as required later, as standalone devices that can do a much better job. At least get several ranges (or autorange) of voltage DC and AC, resistance, and current AC and DC, along with a diode/continuity checker/beeper. __________________ Jesus loves you.

24th February 2005, 03:22 AM	#10
BrianDonegan diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Rock Ridge	Not sure what your budget is like, but I would recommend a Fluke 112. Not very expensive ($120-$150 US) but measures capacitance and frequency in addition to the basics. It's small, autoranging, and bomb-proof. http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...?lookup=FLU112 They sell it at Amazon too for about 140. __________________ Twisted Pear Audio

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23rd February 2005, 02:27 AM	#2
Leolabs diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bukit Mertajam	Thing with eeee sound is quite good for checking continuityDoesnt care whether it is analog or digital.

23rd February 2005, 02:46 AM	#3
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Depends on how much faith you put in your readings and how old the meter will be before you replace it. There are many good reasons to buy a Fluke. I used to calibrate and optimize all makes. If you can afford it, buy a Fluke. Period. -Chris

23rd February 2005, 02:54 AM	#4
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	I just thought of something. We all started with something. Make the best of what you have, but understand the limitations of your meter. I started with a neon test light, and my finger. Meter good, finger bad in a tube amp. I have watched stuff explode, sometimes for fun. Those were the days. Ever work on a five tube radio? They are fun. The chassis is live. The young tech is still alive, but jittery. The boss is laughing. That's why the service area can't be seen by the customer. Just be safe and know your gear. Ask for help. Don't get shocked. -Chris

24th February 2005, 01:07 AM	#6
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Hi Stocker, You actually got a non-Fluke that was in tolerance? What brand was it? Just curious. My experience is that Flukes are almost the only ones that will hold their calibration. Another important point. Fluke is almost the only handheld meter that gives meaningful readings at 1KHz and above. Other meters can only be trusted at 60 Hz. 120Hz is pushing it. I would tend to trust an HP, Extech (I think that's their name) is total garbage, stay away. -Chris

24th February 2005, 02:09 AM	#7
murat diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: knoxville tn	It is definetly the one below. I have been using a pair of them for a couple of years. It reads 0.1 mV and 0.1 muA. I checked the voltmeter against Fluke and the agreement is around %1. It will read 3 1/2 digits ie 199.9 for any thing.For years, time to time I see this thing on sale for $ 4-5!!. This guys sell cheap stuff but everything I bought from them worked reasonably well - for the money paid just excellent. Cheers Murat http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92020

24th February 2005, 02:16 AM	#8
murat diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: knoxville tn	Actually mine is this one with backlight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30756

24th February 2005, 03:13 AM	#9
Bogie diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: St. Louis	Okay - I'm gonna pick one of those up. Why? The folks have reverse engineered some chips, circuits and programs, and costs about the same to RE something expensive as it does to RE something cheap. I like _some_ HF tools - but I'll never trust their calipers or micrometers...