I hope someone can help me, I have a cyrus 3 amp, bought it as faulty. It destroys the bass unit of speakers on the right channel when turned on. I read on another thread that this could be because of the output transistors? Can anyone tell me how to test for the problem and where to get replacment components? Or any other ideas you guys/gals have.
You need to get replace output and driver transistors. You can buy these from Cyrus as well as a technical manual (they sell it as a service manual but it assumes repair knowledge), but they aren't great at responding to emails IME. I can't comment which devices would be suitable replacements as I've only fixed Cyrus 2.
Destruction of the bass driver means that it is due to dc at the speaker terminals. The output transistors might be blown. What part number due you see on it ? If not originals , you might get alternatives. You will however need to check if any other part is blown. Like for example the driver transistors.
Cheers.
Cheers.
I suspect you slightly misread the part number. I think it's BUV48A
Check out RS, Farnell, CPC and Rapid Electronics to buy some.
You should also replace the driver transistors. Even if they seem to function now, they will be damaged and may fail not too long down the line, taking your new output devices and possibly speakers with them.
And I'm not anywhere near Plymouth, although I did go clubbing at the Dance Academy there once and had a top night.
Check out RS, Farnell, CPC and Rapid Electronics to buy some.
You should also replace the driver transistors. Even if they seem to function now, they will be damaged and may fail not too long down the line, taking your new output devices and possibly speakers with them.
And I'm not anywhere near Plymouth, although I did go clubbing at the Dance Academy there once and had a top night.
Hey, I respond to emails! Even posts I see.
I am warranty for Cyrus in Canada. Your outputs may or may not be damaged (probably not). There are some problems with a run of surface mount transistors. There are 24 of them. Not a fun job.
To the best of my knowledge, the guys at Cyrus (I met them in person) are a fine lot. When they repair a product, it undergoes a complete test as if it is a new manufacture. I have witnessed this, and it is a proceedure that is always followed.
My recommendation: at least contact the factory and go from there. It is worth fixing and they sound nice. If the factory repairs the unit, you can be assured that is will be as good as new inside. Every specification will be tested and met before the unit is released.
The repair is such that I wouldn't let just any tech work on it. Heck, I don't like doing all that small work and I've done it before.
-Chris
I am warranty for Cyrus in Canada. Your outputs may or may not be damaged (probably not). There are some problems with a run of surface mount transistors. There are 24 of them. Not a fun job.
To the best of my knowledge, the guys at Cyrus (I met them in person) are a fine lot. When they repair a product, it undergoes a complete test as if it is a new manufacture. I have witnessed this, and it is a proceedure that is always followed.
My recommendation: at least contact the factory and go from there. It is worth fixing and they sound nice. If the factory repairs the unit, you can be assured that is will be as good as new inside. Every specification will be tested and met before the unit is released.
The repair is such that I wouldn't let just any tech work on it. Heck, I don't like doing all that small work and I've done it before.
-Chris
After looking back thru the posts, there is one fairly major thing I forgot to mention! That is, it works fine until it is put into STANDBY! Coming in and out of Standby causes the right hand channel to make a LOT OF NOISE! It is fine if left turned ON but the speaker must be connected when it comes out of standby!
That will probably help narrow this down a little more.
That will probably help narrow this down a little more.
Thought my discription of the fault was a bit vauge, so i tested a few things with a multi-meter. On the pre out sockets, when you leave on seems fine, but when you turn it off at the rear, it reads 800mv ish on left and right, then goes straight back to 0v. on the speaker terminals right shows -40v when turned on at rear, which remains till you turn it on at the front when it goes to +40v then settles at 0v and then goes back to -40 when you switch it off at front. Left shows norm. I disconected the control board at the front it shows same. If i disconect the input board right spk shows -40 even when front is turned on, till the rear is turned off, then it slowly goes to 0v. When i remove the L and R fuses it shows the same on both preouts. The unit will play music through it once it is switched on.
Hope this clears things up!
Hope this clears things up!
Prob solving-Vs cost
Hi Scoobydoo,
Hey i do hope you get it sorted, and cost effectively !
Did you get the amp from Ebay by any chance....
A friend of mine who is an electronic whizz purchased an amp from there awhile ago, only to find that nothing was worth salvaging !..He should have known better.
It is a pain though when youv'ed faffed around trying fix broken stuff and it cost's more, than if you'd bought it second hand.
Ebay is a dumping ground at time's and it's taken the fun out of repairing faulty stuff (imho) Now'ts cheap anymore.
Hi Scoobydoo,
Hey i do hope you get it sorted, and cost effectively !
Did you get the amp from Ebay by any chance....
A friend of mine who is an electronic whizz purchased an amp from there awhile ago, only to find that nothing was worth salvaging !..He should have known better.
It is a pain though when youv'ed faffed around trying fix broken stuff and it cost's more, than if you'd bought it second hand.
Ebay is a dumping ground at time's and it's taken the fun out of repairing faulty stuff (imho) Now'ts cheap anymore.
In this case this thread could be of interest:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...hematics-later-models-wanted.html#post1998327
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...hematics-later-models-wanted.html#post1998327
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