Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Solid State
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Solid State Talk all about solid state amplification.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th January 2005, 10:43 PM   #1
TroelsM is offline TroelsM  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
TroelsM's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: AARHUS. DK
Default Please comment "my" design

Hi all.

I've been working on this design for a while and I would like any comment's you've got.

I guess that the schematic is know material to most of you and the only odd thning is the VI-limiter around Q1, Q12, Q14 and Q25 and the components around them.

The supply for the output (Vcc36/Vss36) is a 620W torroid. The 42V and 12V supply´s are regulated.

I'll build 4 of these (lot of components, -I know..) and bridge them to make at stereo amp of approx. 2*175W

The prototype (without the VI-limiter) is working fine and is very stable. I removed the input filter and feed the amp with a squarewave and there where no signs of overshoot or peaks onthe output.

I've got a complete PSpice model of the amp if any of you want it?

Most of the design is taken from: "Introduction to electroacoustic & Audio amplifier design" by Leach, and from schematics found on the www

The things I´m wondering about:
-What difference would base-resistors in the diff.-amp do?
-How do I calculate the resistor values around the output-stage?

More to come. I hope to make PCB's in a week or so.

TroelsM
Attached Images
File Type: png amp1.png (56.3 KB, 994 views)
__________________
Need more time...
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 12:40 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
hienrich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: City of Gentle People
Wink good work there




hi TroelsM,

theres no problem with your work
the output stage is just a bit messy. why not making it the driver stage and with the output devices paralleled.


but this thing will work, if you want your output stage to be that way
then no problem
one more thing
you need not have two supply rails, for the VAS and the output stage respectively
these type of supply rails are recommended for FET output stages mostly.



nice job,

hienrich
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 12:54 AM   #3
TroelsM is offline TroelsM  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
TroelsM's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: AARHUS. DK
Default thanks

Hi.

The many driver transistors are there to distribute the load of the TIP's. I dont know if it's necessary. Maybe I'll remove some of them and use 1 driver for all 3 TIP's.
I can't afford to much space for cooling of the drivers and I guess that 3 drivers will be able to get rid of the heat better than 1 would?
How will the current-sharing between the TIP's be affected by 3 or 1 driver? I guess that 1 driver is the best solution, but what do you think?
I was hoping that I did'nt have to measure the Hfe og all the transistors, but will it work?

The higher supply for the pre-stage is not necessary, but i'ts my understanding that i'ts the best solution for a number of reasons.

TroelsM
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 04:51 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Your design look fairly reasonable but there are a couple of unusual points I noticed:

Your output base resistors (R11 etc) are quite low and your drivers are working fairly hard to get the outputs into conduction. Using low values here help output device turn-off but if you are using TIP devices (they not fast) then I dont know why you need 33 ohms there. You have slow output devices and then you use a technique to make them as fast as possible, but you take the disadvantages of the technique. If you are worried about output stage bandwidth then dont use the TIP devices. I dont think output stage bandwidth should be a real consideration considering the inductor at the output. It is a lowpass filter anyway. Personally, I'd use a 100 ohms there (placed around the emitter resistors) and have 1 driver (maybe a different type) for all 3 output devices. Less pieces to worry about...

I think R4 and R50 dont serve any purpose at all. I know it looks 'better' but it makes no difference. If i remember correctly the Douglas Self site mentions this somewhere.

Personally I dont understand the fascination many people have with these 'double LTPl' input stages. I think a normal LTP with a current mirror is really the best. But I admit the double LTP stages look nice on schematic.

Using multiple supplies for 1 channel amp always seems to me to be bad design. Better to redesign the amp to use 1 supply. Its a very expensive way to get an amp that is just a little bit easier to design.

These are just some things I noticed. The design looks good and will probably work just fine.

Doug Eleveld
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 04:55 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Oh yeah and your comment about driver emitter resistors: You dont need to match output devices if you use only1 driver. If you place the emitter resistors around the output emitter resistors. The voltage drop over the output emitter resistors helps balance output device current for different output device gains.

Doug Eleveld
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 05:25 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
destroyer X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Recife - Brasil Northeast
Default I think it is very good... i like that simetrical designs.

But tell me, that's the question appeared into my mind.

How it sounds.... in comparison with other known sound you have or used to compare.

When i see those double simetrical...i always imagine some 6 dB reduction of bass.

That's the reason of the question.

related the circuit...the darlingtons you constructed was great...also the heat distribution in many output transistors were clever.

But tell me...the sound...please.

nanabrother@yahoo.com

Carlos
__________________
Try to build an amplifier folks ... it is pure adrenaline!.. when not work first time, then becomes a nice challenge...and we usually overcome the trouble... and we feel very well to be mastering the machine.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 07:20 AM   #7
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
Hi,
the current protection on the VAS also limits dissipation on the output protection. You can change Q12&14 to fast, low power types. Q12 & 14 also require stopper diodes in series from the drive lines (collectors of q11 &15)
I don't know what D5&6 are doing?
I have seen C4 & C5 replaced with a single cap NOT connected to the output. You should leave lots of room and extra holes in the pcb for different sizes of C4&5 to change the time constant of the VI protection. You may want to go as high as 100uF to allow peaks to pass through without limiting.
I agree the idea to ditch the integrated darlingtons.
regards Andrew T.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 09:46 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
darkfenriz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Warsaw
hi TroelsM
i like it very much
including r4&r50- they equalize R*Cmiller

including separete rails-they always improve sound and you can get rid of "dual mono" and run normal stereo

including separete drivers-they work at 3 times lower currents compared to one driver, it is good with more output bjts to be driven by lower power (read:faster and higher beta) drivers

the only thing I am wondering about is frequency compensation..
enough??

regards
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 10:27 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
darkfenriz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Warsaw
one more thing:
do you use regulated supply fo VAS?
I think it is worth doing and easy even with LM317/337
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th January 2005, 10:35 AM   #10
uli is offline uli  Austria
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Vienna, Austria
Hi TroelsM,

IMHO the time constant of the DC-servo is too low. Its just
100ms which is 1.6 Hz. Better use 470n caps.
The TL071 is not the best choice for servocircuits, its a poor,
outdated device. I would use a fetopamp with lower offset
voltage.

Its a pleasing design though.

Uli

__________________

'Jazz is not dead, it just smells funny' F.Zappa
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Seeking advice on "Circlotron" cross-coupled feedback OTL design arteitle Tubes / Valves 8 5th March 2010 09:55 PM
What makes an amplifier "bright", "warm", or "neutral"? JohnS Solid State 51 13th December 2009 06:42 PM
Please comment on my "built-in" subwoofer idea weinstro Subwoofers 5 28th September 2007 04:28 AM
design help needed: monopole 15" / 8" MTM open baffle with Manger taloyd Multi-Way 26 26th January 2007 10:53 PM
Pls comment on "Compact audio amplifier" from Elektor goldyrathore Solid State 11 3rd March 2003 08:20 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:40 AM.

Page generated in 0.15202 seconds (75.98% PHP - 24.02% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio