Hi Kevin,
You lucky dog!!!
I would love to get near ours up here, but the city owns it and are determined that everything goes underground. I'm stuck at home and this would give me lot's to do.
Enjoy this happy arrangement.
They are amazing once set up. (and you think they might be good now!)
-Chris
You lucky dog!!!
I would love to get near ours up here, but the city owns it and are determined that everything goes underground. I'm stuck at home and this would give me lot's to do.
Enjoy this happy arrangement.
True, I knew where you were coming from. However, all equipment needs work at this age. Tuners need aligning and much more. So there is nothing you can buy that is ready to deliver what it did new in the way of performance. Until it's gone over, it isn't really what it says it is on the faceplate.
They are amazing once set up. (and you think they might be good now!)
-Chris
Ok guys, thanks again for the info and thanks Tony for the schematic, it was a big help. I have made some progress, i got the replacement resistors, installed in place of the bad ones and a complete new set of drivers, checked both channels with my old pair of outputs, both played crystal clear now, I didnt get the outputs until today. I installed them, correctly, in the right places with clean heatsink, insulators and new HS compound. Checked for shorts before I powered it up and it seemed all good. Powered it up and it blew the main fuse instantly. Checked the new outputs again and they still seem good. took them out and with the old ones back in and again, each channel plays fine.
Now, the original Sanken output P/N's are 2SA1106N and 2SC2581N, I replaced them with Sanken 2SA1106 and 2SC2581, no "N" at the end, I was told they would work but it seems like they dont. Any ideas? I cant find any info on the original P/N's. Thanks again for any help, Kevin
Now, the original Sanken output P/N's are 2SA1106N and 2SC2581N, I replaced them with Sanken 2SA1106 and 2SC2581, no "N" at the end, I was told they would work but it seems like they dont. Any ideas? I cant find any info on the original P/N's. Thanks again for any help, Kevin
Last we heard you had purchased those outputs from eprey. The concern now would be whether or not you received fakes. I'm not really following you on the testing both channels with old outputs and its running fine (thought you had some shorted). Are you saying the original outputs you pulled tested ok but decided to replace them? If you are up and running with the original outputs leave them in and bench run it awhile.
edit: I think I realize the testing outputs now. Don't tell me your still swapping the 1 good channel back and forth?
edit: I think I realize the testing outputs now. Don't tell me your still swapping the 1 good channel back and forth?
Kevin,
Quite possibly you have come by some fakes (or just missed something). A couple of close photos might help us identify them. Rod Elliot is trying to keep up a current list (here) of all the counterfeits around, but I think he's fighting a losing battle.
Have you tried Consolidated Electronics for Sanken parts? I think they are in Dayton Ohio (and they have a toll-free number!!). They've got Sanken listed under Products/Semi-conductors and then there's a Sanken page from there.
Quite possibly you have come by some fakes (or just missed something). A couple of close photos might help us identify them. Rod Elliot is trying to keep up a current list (here) of all the counterfeits around, but I think he's fighting a losing battle.
Have you tried Consolidated Electronics for Sanken parts? I think they are in Dayton Ohio (and they have a toll-free number!!). They've got Sanken listed under Products/Semi-conductors and then there's a Sanken page from there.
yep, you got it mang!!! I have one good pair, i planned on replaceing a full set so I dont see where the harm is in swapping them to test the channels but maybe im missing something, I admit, I am no expert!!
Here are the item numbers from ebay, you can give me your opinion but they look the same as my original with the exception of the N in the P/N, 140105386703 and 140066194467, he has decent feedback and seems people are happy with his parts
the new outputs are not shorted and even with the new ones in the side with no problems and the other 2 removed, it still blew the fuse. Do you think I got some fakes? Are ECG36 and 37's good for replacements?
Here are the item numbers from ebay, you can give me your opinion but they look the same as my original with the exception of the N in the P/N, 140105386703 and 140066194467, he has decent feedback and seems people are happy with his parts
the new outputs are not shorted and even with the new ones in the side with no problems and the other 2 removed, it still blew the fuse. Do you think I got some fakes? Are ECG36 and 37's good for replacements?
Regardless if the new outputs are fakes or not, if you had one good channel and then you swapped that channels outputs to the bad channel that did the repairs on (replaced the drivers and resistors etc.) and you had it working that tells me that:
1. One or more of the new outputs are suspect; not necessarily fake but bad (it does happen)
2. Something you have done by way of installing them. Bridged solder connects (shorts) etc.
DO NOT use ECG/NTE. Those Sanken outputs should not be hard to find from a reputable electronics supplier. A place here in Canada has a bunch of the complimentary pairs for under 2bux each. So if you were to once again put the good channel output back in the bad channel and replace the fuse are you STILL up and running? Not the way I'd go about troublshooting but hey its your time and gear.
Edit: It looks like that place cloth ears suggested is subbing them
1. One or more of the new outputs are suspect; not necessarily fake but bad (it does happen)
2. Something you have done by way of installing them. Bridged solder connects (shorts) etc.
DO NOT use ECG/NTE. Those Sanken outputs should not be hard to find from a reputable electronics supplier. A place here in Canada has a bunch of the complimentary pairs for under 2bux each. So if you were to once again put the good channel output back in the bad channel and replace the fuse are you STILL up and running? Not the way I'd go about troublshooting but hey its your time and gear.
Edit: It looks like that place cloth ears suggested is subbing them
Im pretty good at soldering, I dont think the problem is there and i always check for shorts before powering up just in case. Yes, I can put the good pair I have in the bad side and now it plays, I actually have a 2 amp relay in place of the 7 amp fuse for testing purpose.
When I started, it had a shorted pair of outputs, an open emitter resistor and an open 220ohm 1/2 watt resistor, #54 on the board. I replaced all 4 emitters and 4 of the 220's as well with new ones and the drivers which was recomended to me here on the forum, they still tested good. I tested each channel with the original good pair of outputs, I was waiting for the replacements in the mail. All was good and I thought I had it licked.
Anyways, I still cant find a problem with the new ones on my DMM
When I started, it had a shorted pair of outputs, an open emitter resistor and an open 220ohm 1/2 watt resistor, #54 on the board. I replaced all 4 emitters and 4 of the 220's as well with new ones and the drivers which was recomended to me here on the forum, they still tested good. I tested each channel with the original good pair of outputs, I was waiting for the replacements in the mail. All was good and I thought I had it licked.
Anyways, I still cant find a problem with the new ones on my DMM
Hi 1978chevyman,
From where I sit, the only things you can depend on is your diode check function and voltage readings. Resistance may be iffy. You can not check for leakage or beta, so forget trying to find out from testing what the quality of your parts are.
As mentioned by Bigred:
So, what is your current status?
-Chris
That is amazingly risky, as I have mentioned already. What you still do not understand is that a driver transistor can go leaky or fail unexpectedly. The damage occurs before anything will register in your head. Forget fast reflexes and the best of intentions. We are talking about cold hard physics here with no regard for what you hope will happen.
I don't understand why you would. A DMM will only show you complete failures. To test transistors you will need a test jig and power supplies or a curve tracer - not to mention a lot of knowledge. Failing this you can only depend on your parts vendor and good common sense coupled with a knowledge of what you are doing. Failing this, you need to depend on advice in a forum as we hope you bought parts wisely. A question. When buying parts were quality is an issue, does it make any sense to look for the least expensive supplier? I'll throw out a hint. When I ran my service shop it was far more important to pay a little more to use the real parts.
From where I sit, the only things you can depend on is your diode check function and voltage readings. Resistance may be iffy. You can not check for leakage or beta, so forget trying to find out from testing what the quality of your parts are.
As mentioned by Bigred:
I'll add SK and any other "replacement numbers".
So, what is your current status?
-Chris
Hi, thanks again for the advice. Those actually werent the cheapest parts I could get, just easy to look stuff up on ebay, I have friends that have orders parts from the same guy so I thought it would be all good. Like I said, I am a rookie and still get confused by P/N's. when initially searching, I had already bought those before I figured out the 2S were the first two number in the P/N.
Anyways, my current status is that I emailed the guy that runs this site to order another set
http://www.woodang.net/Procedure.htm
he offers matched pairs of each, original Sankens for $13 per pair.
I told you I have a friend that repairs car audio amps,he said he will do a capacitance test on the set I bought from Ebay that are suspected to be fake, he says he is familiar with the fakes and knows how to find them, he also stated, they usually only come from outside the US, these ones didnt, they came from Florida.
Well, If I install the new ones and it works, guess they were bad, I'll give an update as soon as I know something else.
Later, Kevin
Anyways, my current status is that I emailed the guy that runs this site to order another set
http://www.woodang.net/Procedure.htm
he offers matched pairs of each, original Sankens for $13 per pair.
I told you I have a friend that repairs car audio amps,he said he will do a capacitance test on the set I bought from Ebay that are suspected to be fake, he says he is familiar with the fakes and knows how to find them, he also stated, they usually only come from outside the US, these ones didnt, they came from Florida.
Well, If I install the new ones and it works, guess they were bad, I'll give an update as soon as I know something else.
Later, Kevin
Old thread, I know. It's worth mentioning that when repairing a bad channel on this particular Sansui, it is a good idea to get rid of the original bias trimmers in favor of some Bourns single turn pots or similar.
If that original trim pot goes open for even a millisecond (and we all know that old cruddy pots do) both outputs turn on full tilt with predictable results.
If that original trim pot goes open for even a millisecond (and we all know that old cruddy pots do) both outputs turn on full tilt with predictable results.
If you need some real Genuine Sansui or Sanken parts:
http://www.sansui-parts-shop.com/index.php?page=browse&action=list&group=33&cat=30
http://www.sansui-parts-shop.com/index.php?page=browse&action=list&group=33&cat=30
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