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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm going Class-A
I still plan to build the ESP 60w, but i won't need that much power on my bedroom, and what the hell, i want to do something "different". The idea is to have the amp sitting high with my speakers, staying on standby until activated by a remote signal (on my preamp, low on the desk Now, i'm kinda biased to the JLH '96... 15w, simple, relatively cheap, and, reputed to sound amazing. The power supply would be a capacitance multiplier (been simulating those; why aren't they more widely used?), and the aditional circuitery would be the standby, led vumeters and perhaps a small fan to keep things cool inside. My main concern is the dissipated power, i'll go shopping for aluminium this monday and have that item covered before even soldering. So, any comments? Things i should know (besides one cap being incorrectly conected to the -V on the schematic, know that)? How it compares to other low power class A amps? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Önnarp, Söderslätt
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Hi Lisandro.
Try to avoid the fan. I'm (still)using one in my Pass ClassA amp, and it's kind of irritating, when You know it's there. I'd spend some more money on heatsink if I were You.
__________________
Regards Hoffmeyer ;0) |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
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Quote:
Why are you bothering with this? At +/-28V, the capacitors are easy to get, and relatively inexpensive. Check the prices of ALL the parts, before you commit yourself. If this were a high-power amp, I'd consider the Capacitance Multiplier, but not for 15WPC. Good luck. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Calgary
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Hi Lisandro,
I have decided to go ahead with the ESP 60W, but my plan is to eventually use this as the woofer driver for a biamp setup. I'll be deciding on a Class A design sometime in the next year or so to drive the midrange / tweeters. Please keep us all posted on your progress. Are you buying the PCB? |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
By the way, a regulated psu is out of the question. I already have too much power to dissipate. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2001
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Quote:
Without the regulator, the capacitance multiplier would definately be worth it. Make sure you put good sized caps on both the input and output. If the regulator helps, then it's because the PSRR of this amp is poor. Good luck. [Edited by thoth on 07-23-2001 at 09:16 PM] |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks for the help. Today i went shopping and found some 0.6 °C/W heatsinks for about $20 each (heavy, but not too big); four of those (one for each output pair in the push-pull output) would dissipate the 180 watts without raising more than 25-30°C. Hope those $100 are worth it...
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