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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
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Hi!
A friend is working on upgrading an amp that originally used, I hope I get this right, A1106 output transistors. He was given two other recommendations: 2sd817/2SD1047's and A1368LF/C3519's. The first night be lower wattage. I am not sure. (Don't worry. He knows MUCH more than I do! ). Does anyone have any recommendations for a better quality, lower nose, etc output that will plug right in? We are talking an amp in the 100 WPC range. Thanks! Erik |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi Erik,
The 2SB817 / 2SD1047 work just fine. I use these myself to sub those originals. I wouldn't lose any sleep over a higher rated output as they are just overkill. Use whatever pair is easier for you to get. -Chris |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
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Hi Chris
Thanks for the input. Actually, we can get any of them. Just wondering which would be the best sounding/cleanest of the lot. Thanks Erik |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi Erik,
There will not be a sound difference between the types. Matching the gains of the diff. pair would make a bigger (positive) difference. Take care to clean the heatsink and insulators completely and apply new heatsink grease. I aways do a C-E and C-B leakage test on the preceeding transistors and bias transistor. If you can't do this, then just replace them. When setting the bias current, take your time while watching for excessive drift. It helps to use a variac on the first power up. -Chris |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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Quote:
Changing the outputs will have about the least effect of nearly anything else you could do with the amp. If you insist on swapping them out, send the old ones to me.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi EchoWars,
I'm pretty sure the outputs no longer work from the text. If the outputs are good, I totally agree with you. There ain't noth'in wrong with 2SC2581 and 2SA1106 types. Mind you, the others aren't a downgrade so much either. -Chris |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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2SC2581...that's it. Must be getting old and feeble.
Woodang sells the original types for a pretty fair price. If the originals are toast, by all means, slap some MJ21193's and 4's in there and call it a day...or if you want original, get 'em from Woodang. Or use the B817/D1047's. But if the originals are good, concentrate your efforts and $$ on parts of the amp where it will make a difference. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
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Ok Echo.
Not going into specifics, but what area do you figure will make the biggest difference. Thanks! Erik |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Left of the Dial
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Depends on the amp, and its age. If its older than, say, 20 years, get rid of the old electrolytic caps.
As far as semiconductors, the difference between a decent amp and a poor one happens at the input and VAS stages. Sure, all stages are important, but the most noticable improvements will happen at the front end of the amp, not the back. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Oh yeah. Absolutely!
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