NAD 3020 restoration

Giaime · 16th November 2004, 05:10 PM

Hello, I have an old NAD 3020. It is in great shape, but has been keep unused for many years. What are the things I should ckeck before plugging in, and what components I need to change? Should I make any mods to use it to power a pair of monitors for an home-studio?

I will be grateful.

cpemma · 16th November 2004, 05:43 PM

Check there's nothing living in it, and the voltage across the speaker terminals is about zero at minimum volume (and no input signal).

Then fire up and see what it sounds like. I've one running all original components, sounds fine. The pots and switches will probably need a clean, IPA is OK.

There's a site here with tips for replacing various caps, both in the signal path and PSU, a search of this forum will turn up IIRC the bias settings and setup method (or clicky here for the service manual) and the schematic is online in a few places.

Giaime · 17th November 2004, 11:11 AM

Thank you for posting those links!

When you say I must check there's nothing living in it, you mean someting "organic"?

cpemma · 22nd November 2004, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cpemma
(clicky here for the service manual) ...

Above link for NAD3020 manual changed (demand exceeding the site bandwidth limit, it's an 11Mb file

) to my free space.

Giaime · 22nd November 2004, 03:20 PM

Thank you! But I had already downloaded it...

Vix · 22nd November 2004, 03:51 PM

Hi

I also own a NAD 3020. Nowadays it is playing in my office. (ZEN is responsible for expelling it out of my home). I have made a couple of small changes:

1. Replaced filter capacitors: I mounted two 10,000 uF (instead of 4x2200 uF)
2. Replaced ordinary trim pots with multiturn ones. Readjusted until I got almost zero DC offset. Read this: http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/bias_e.html
3. Added small heatsinks on the driver transistors (this is not necessary, but I thought it to be a good idea)
4. Replaced input electrolytic caps with MKS caps. These are much bigger in size, however it is possible to mount them.
5. Cleaned all switches and potentiometers with contact spray.

Hope this helps

Vix

16th November 2004, 05:10 PM	#1
Giaime diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	NAD 3020 restoration Hello, I have an old NAD 3020. It is in great shape, but has been keep unused for many years. What are the things I should ckeck before plugging in, and what components I need to change? Should I make any mods to use it to power a pair of monitors for an home-studio? I will be grateful.

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16th November 2004, 05:43 PM	#2
cpemma diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: S Yorkshire OK	Check there's nothing living in it, and the voltage across the speaker terminals is about zero at minimum volume (and no input signal). Then fire up and see what it sounds like. I've one running all original components, sounds fine. The pots and switches will probably need a clean, IPA is OK. There's a site here with tips for replacing various caps, both in the signal path and PSU, a search of this forum will turn up IIRC the bias settings and setup method (or clicky here for the service manual) and the schematic is online in a few places.

17th November 2004, 11:11 AM	#3
Giaime diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	Thank you for posting those links! When you say I must check there's nothing living in it, you mean someting "organic"?

22nd November 2004, 03:20 PM	#5
Giaime diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	Thank you! But I had already downloaded it...

22nd November 2004, 03:51 PM	#6
Vix diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Somewhere on Planet Earth	Hi I also own a NAD 3020. Nowadays it is playing in my office. (ZEN is responsible for expelling it out of my home). I have made a couple of small changes: 1. Replaced filter capacitors: I mounted two 10,000 uF (instead of 4x2200 uF) 2. Replaced ordinary trim pots with multiturn ones. Readjusted until I got almost zero DC offset. Read this: http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/bias_e.html 3. Added small heatsinks on the driver transistors (this is not necessary, but I thought it to be a good idea) 4. Replaced input electrolytic caps with MKS caps. These are much bigger in size, however it is possible to mount them. 5. Cleaned all switches and potentiometers with contact spray. Hope this helps Vix

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